Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i have recently brought a r32 with a rb25det in it. It is stock apart from a full 3'' exhaust and a FMIC. I am also running a hks power filter and a boost controller. Also got a malpassi FPR and a walbro fuel pump.

It is tuned at 185.5rwkw at 11psi. It was running pretty shit and the tuner said it had a really bad lean spot in it. He then upped the Fuel pressure by fiting the FPR and it was ok for a while. I then had intermittent problems of the car coughing and spluttering. Kinda like a massive missfire when changing to second gear. It was normally when turning a corner or entering a drift. I checked the fuel pump and all was ok apart from the fact that the pump was only getting 8 volts. I then ran a whole new wire on a circuit breaker and a relay so now it gets 13.4 volts.

The problem went away for a while but now is back. Has happened the last two days. As far as i know it is still on 11psi or lower. Could it be a boost spike or spark. I am really unsure and every time i take it to the tuner it doesnt do it. (f**k i hate that). Any suggestions that might help i am all ears.

Also i searched but cant find anything on this R&R and stock ecu boost problems over 10psi. Can you shed some light on that also Thanks.

Forgot to mention it is running a stock ecu and the Airflow meter is hitting 4.9 volts on 11psi. Been told it may have a high flowed turbo maybe. Cheers

Edited by super_s13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239076-problems-with-rb25det-in-my-r32/
Share on other sites

Oh yeah that is another mod that has been done. I will post a pic of the remote upgraded coil pack setup. Though that said it still may be a problem. Actually to be honest it has started after removing the Rocker covers so may be the prob as they had to come off to do that. Will look tomorrow.

Do you know why the air flow meter is doing that.

Also is 185.5rwkw a good number for a stock turbo FMIC, full 3'' zorst, fuel pump and FPR on 11psi

dsc01052qa3.jpg

Oh yeah that is another mod that has been done. I will post a pic of the remote upgraded coil pack setup. Though that said it still may be a problem. Actually to be honest it has started after removing the Rocker covers so may be the prob as they had to come off to do that. Will look tomorrow.

Do you know why the air flow meter is doing that.

Also is 185.5rwkw a good number for a stock turbo FMIC, full 3'' zorst, fuel pump and FPR on 11psi

dsc01052qa3.jpg

200hp would be good or 200kw with a high flow turbo. Post up your dyno chart. What is happening to the air/fuel ratios? If it is leaning out at high revs/boost you could damage your engine. Have you tried turning the boost down to 10psi - does it make any difference?

  • 2 weeks later...

I used to have an r32 a while ago and randomly when driving it would sputter along pretty aggressively

I would feel as if i was driving along normaly, then slam the brakes on, then hit the accelerator again. It was actually pretty dangerous and would annoy the sh*t out of me

I changed the AFM and it was all fixed

if the fault went away after you fixed the fuel pump wiring and then eventually came back then the fuel pump is the likely issue.

Add in that walbros don't like a lot of pressure and that there are plenty of dodgy copies out there and you are pretty much on the way to having it sorted.

I generally don't like the ex coil mods either. Been there done that, went back to splitfires....

No offense to you, but get a diffierent tuner, if he uses a Fpr to fix a problem, then he is out of his depth. firstly do a trouble code check, compression test(to check the motor is still good) and check fuel pressure.

No i will stick with this tuner as he has fixed the problem. It was a dodgy fuel pump. He is a very good tuner up here and has a very big customer list with fast daily driven cars that are very drivable.

if the fault went away after you fixed the fuel pump wiring and then eventually came back then the fuel pump is the likely issue.

Add in that walbros don't like a lot of pressure and that there are plenty of dodgy copies out there and you are pretty much on the way to having it sorted.

I generally don't like the ex coil mods either. Been there done that, went back to splitfires....

Did this and checked the flow of the puel pump. At high RPM the fuel pressure drops to nothing replaced it with a 040 and is all good now. Thanks for all the replies.

Also the EX coils are going very soon. It was on the car when i brought it and my tuner has said to get rid of them and go splitfires. So this is happening. Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...