Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello

there is very little difference in cost between hiflowing a turbo and rebuilding a turbo (ball bearing)

both steps throw out all of the junk and replace them with new items

its just with a highflow they put in larger flowing items and bore the housing out a little

when you recondition a turbo they put in new compressor and exhaust wheels

balance the bearings, new bearing pack (chra) and make all nice and schmick at 100,000+ rpm

so if you gettting a turbo "reconditioned" you would be silly to not highflow it for the extra $300 ish ?

that being said you can get your turbo reconditioned cheaply but it might not be balanced properly

or they may re-use the old existing wheels and just replace the bearings in it (which may be acceptable too, ask a turbo shop?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239100-turbo-rebuild/#findComment-4178663
Share on other sites

i guess it must be the price for Hi Flowing the unit cos they are replacing the wheels with steel items and are maching the housing cos it was damaged when she went bang!

Weeellll, I took mine to be HiFlowed at RE Customs (only guys in Australia or NZ to have removed the turbo on an M35 Stagea without dropping the engine).

I don't know where they sent my turbo to (somewhere in Dandenong), but it cost ~$1100 and now uses a T3 core.

Add labour charge on top of that to remove/install.

If you can do it yourself, just ask one of the guys at RE where they send their to. Can't hurt.

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239100-turbo-rebuild/#findComment-4179293
Share on other sites

there would have to be over 100 threads in the forced induction section on here on highflowing a turbo, the costs, the info, gains, back to back comparisons, charts, wheel specs, various places to do and a stack of other info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239100-turbo-rebuild/#findComment-4181619
Share on other sites

ohh ok , thanks for the reply, did you feel a big diffrence? like did u feel the geforce? how much PSI was it boosted to? did it feel good? did u feel like it was worth it. because im very keen..

Ok, in order...

No problem.

Yes.

Yes.

It was boosting 0.8bar @ 3200rpm (which is standard for the stock turbo), but now boosts to at least 1 bar @ 3800 (exhaust allowed it to breathe). I say a minimum of 1bar because my factory boost gauge only goes to 1bar.

Ooh yes :D (Brad made the comment that it is by far the quickest wagon he has ever been in. I just don't know how many performance wagons he has been in :blink: )

Didn't really have a choice, but definately.

Talk to Ray at RE 03 9548 3414

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239100-turbo-rebuild/#findComment-4183473
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...