Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan Skyline GTR, 1993, r32

Milage: 140,000 km's

Colour: gunmetal

Location: Melbourne

RWC supplied? Yes

Currently registered? Yes

Price: $20,000

Contact: PM preferably

Comments / Modifications: Freshly rebuilt 500 k's ago, have only done about 6000 km's since purchasing it, it leaned out too much a while ago and 3 of the pistons melted so i haven't put too many k's on it. Guy i purchased it off used it as a bit of a run around, car has a scratch on front bumper and lip and next to rear headlight (that will probably need fixing to look good, it's about a $600-700 job at most beaters) Other than that it's straight, paint is in good condition, few minor dents, nothing really noticeable. Interior is in good condition but drivers seat has some wear (partially torn patch about 3 " by 1") Gearbox and diffs etc have all been checked out and are in good condition. Car has no crash history

Very original car, good if your looking for power but a standard look (i haven't been pulled over since buying it, used to get pulled over all the time in my old gtst)

Modifications: - Engine just rebuild 500 km's ago with full receipts at a price of $10400

Car has GAB Coilovers, standard rims with some decent tyres (+ a few spares of the same brand/size) and new pads/rotors.

Standard turbo's (replaced one with the rebuild because it was on the way out)

CP Pistons

Eagle H beam con rods

New main/rod bearings

bored and honed, surfaced, crack tested block

Linished and balanced crack

ARP Head Studs

Reco'd head, valves and reset valve clearances

New timing Belt

Adjustable cam gears

Tomei metal headgasket

N1 Oil Pump and drive

New water pump

New engine mounts

New tensioner and idle pully

Heavy duty clutch, cushioned so it's not a pig to drive but it will handle 320kw (800km's ago)

R33 AFM's

Twin *drift* pod filters

JJR Coil Packs

Has a 3" catback system with a hkz super dragger muffler, sounds awesome

-

Full service including oil filter, plugs, coolant, p/s fluid

Engine was built to handle good power, i had plans for twin 2530's and about 350-400kw eventually but ended up getting poor so now i'm gonna sell it and buy i don't know what, will have a dyno next week need to get a few more k's up on it

Just put in a new Pioneer head unit ($300 unit) and have a exelsior kenwood sub (was $240 about a year ago, sounds great) and a brand new kenwood KAC-1204 amplifier (400 retail) that i haven't used and haven't installed yet

Also comes with plates GTAAAH

Few pics below of the rebuild and the scratches on frontbar

Images:

post-26886-1223333055_thumb.jpg

post-26886-1223333156_thumb.jpg

post-26886-1223333204_thumb.jpg

post-26886-1223333363_thumb.jpg

post-26886-1223333468_thumb.jpg

post-26886-1223333509_thumb.jpg

post-26886-1223333580_thumb.jpg

Edited by Neil
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

bump, paint has no peeling, flaking etc.. paint is a good coat, original factory spray, all pretty nice except for the few little scratches pictured above, not much to repair.. The engine will net you alot of RELIABLE power once you throw some turbo's on, shouldn't have problems netting 320kw with some 2860-7's, with no supporting mods.. Has original GTR everything, if your after a Godzilla, for a decent price here it is..

2000km's since rebuild now, engines under warranty for quite some time yet, FULL year registration and RWC supplied

I got $15000

ahhh thats pretty low ball, i think the car itself is worth more than $5k as the engine is atleast worth $10k lol

Free bump just bought a 32 GTR myself for $25k, i don't regret it one bit. best thing i did was piss off my 33 GTST and get into a better machine

ahhh thats pretty low ball, i think the car itself is worth more than $5k as the engine is atleast worth $10k lol

Free bump just bought a 32 GTR myself for $25k, i don't regret it one bit. best thing i did was piss off my 33 GTST and get into a better machine

Well there are a few reasons i offered $15,000.

He can only say NO piss off, if you dont ask you never know.

It must be a hot GTR for 25G's any pics PM Me some.

And a free bump.

Edited by subzeroR33
Well there are a few reasons i offered $15,000.

He can only say NO piss off, if you dont ask you never know.

It must be a hot GTR for 25G's any pics PM Me some.

And a free bump.

Nah sorry dude, 15k is far less than i want for it, maybe if the engine hadn't been rebuilt 2000 km's ago i might consider it or 16k.. it is a 93 and they do net slightly more cashola.. mechanically it's perfect, only a few lil problems, few hundred bucks and it'll be perfect

Bump, want 20 now, don't want any lower, if car doesn't sell will respray the front and rear bars so it's perfect again and take another stab in a few months.. markets dying in the ass

Edited by GTAAAH

cheers dude, i wish i had bought something like this originally, would have saved me alot of money, but noo i wanted to risk the stock engine..

Car is now $20k including RWC

Bump, getting the car resprayed, price is likely to go up to about 23,000 to compensate for the expensive spray job.. should help the car sell faster though, even with this recession thingo..

Mobile number is 0421654914 if anyone wants to call to have a chat

  • 1 month later...

car in workshop, getting front back and back quarter resprayed, rest are already in vgc... back bumper was scratched by a truck bout 2 weeks ago, so thought i may as well spray any other scratched panel's while it's in.. paint will be perfect once this is done

Yeh i'm a bit confused myself, hopefully the market will pick up again..

Price will be increased to 21500 again once paint is all 100% (front bar/lip (scratches), front RH quarter (little scratch) rear bumper (truck scratch) rear RH quarter up to roof/door (truck scratch) all getting resprayed, was going to fully respray car but the rest of the paint is in perfect condition so no point), minor tear on drivers seat will be fixed.

Low price was due to xmas and current economics + the scratches which are getting fixed, cheers

Edited by GTAAAH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...