Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can one of you guys tell me what compression ratio would be ideal for a dual setup.

i have mahle's 8.5:1 going in at the moment. obviously i cant drop too much valves and the likes will hit? (i have no idea)

8.7:1 will live happily on both although the closer you can get to 9 without pistons and valves shaking hands the better for E85.

Power fc is for panzys!

Power fc's are still good.. they are just for Noobs who don't know or don't care to know any better.

I think a 9.5 compression ratio would be good for a dual setup. use 98 for street stuff then take e85 to the track.

Power fc's are still good.. they are just for Noobs who don't know or don't care to know any better.

Vipec are very good from what i have read, its many years the PFC junior which is alot in technolgy terms. Would be dissapointing if it wasnt a decent leap forward. That being said i'm more than happy with my pfc and dont see the point in spending the extra coin in upgrading.

Vipec are very good from what i have read, its many years the PFC junior which is alot in technolgy terms. Would be dissapointing if it wasnt a decent leap forward. That being said i'm more than happy with my pfc and dont see the point in spending the extra coin in upgrading.

Fair enough. I just set the closed loop lambda settings to be a bit more agressive with e85... wonder how this will work :)

Vipec are very good from what i have read, its many years the PFC junior which is alot in technolgy terms. Would be dissapointing if it wasnt a decent leap forward. That being said i'm more than happy with my pfc and dont see the point in spending the extra coin in upgrading.

Sell your Power FC while its still worth something.

I just had a conversation with a guy who has a Power FC, brand new Z32's and a E boost2.

sell Power FC and H/C = $1000 Z32's = $500 EBoost 2 = $500

thats $2000 - $1650 for Vi-PEC = $350 towards tuning. Guilt-Toy tune = $600 so he can get a better ecu and a better tune for $250...money well spent.

People spend $1000+ on cams that do nothing on some engines so $250 is peanuts.

Yeah I have to admit, after last night, I was pretty damn impressed! :D Anthony was a little pissed, it seems all I was there for in the end was to punish his clutch and thrash his car :)

All I need is some ricey read out display that doesn't require a car PC and I'm hooked :)

*plays the waiting game*

Yeah I have to admit, after last night, I was pretty damn impressed! :D Anthony was a little pissed, it seems all I was there for in the end was to punish his clutch and thrash his car :)

All I need is some ricey read out display that doesn't require a car PC and I'm hooked :)

*plays the waiting game*

we are working on it...should be ready next month (feb)

Anthony, you should think about setting up a toggle switch so you can switch betwen fuel and ignition maps to suit. :) so its just a flick of the switch and you are on either E85 or 98.

i volunteer Paul to wire it up to DI5 or DI6 for you :D

Edited by TiTAN
Sell your Power FC while its still worth something.

Or keep it as its only 10 months old and i'm very happy with it...I'm making 330ish rwkw now on E85 with a PFC what more could you ask for, not much in my opinion.

oi Mr Dirt.. This is the E85 thread.. as much as i agree with you on the subject this thread is linked on heaps of forums world wide and i am sure they don't want to see our ECU Tuner wars battles

anti lag works good, i don't use it on the street though. i just have cycle idle on because when i use the air con the water temps go up to around 100deg, when i turn cycle idle on it cools it down and runs at about 94ish in traffic.

GT: Why are you getting such high temps in traffic with air con on?

Limping along slowly with air con on, the standard cooling system should be more then capable of containing the water temps... Is your hydraulic fan on the way out or something?

I know you have everything like air con condensor/FMIC etc in the way of the radiator, have you thought about setting up a "divider" to make sure the air that comes in the front bar HAS to go through the FMIC, radiator, etc?

GT: Why are you getting such high temps in traffic with air con on?

Limping along slowly with air con on, the standard cooling system should be more then capable of containing the water temps... Is your hydraulic fan on the way out or something?

I know you have everything like air con condensor/FMIC etc in the way of the radiator, have you thought about setting up a "divider" to make sure the air that comes in the front bar HAS to go through the FMIC, radiator, etc?

my setup needs some attention. I am running the stock mspec front bar and have not chopped out the reo bar because i like my car to be legal.

The oil cooler is mounted on the front of the air con condensor, so its heating up there, i added a air con thermo fan and have replaced the clutch in the engine fan.

Its just that the radiator cannot get enough air from the front. its a Mspec radiator as well.. I need to move the oil cooler and install another thermo fan i think.

yeah it does run a bit hot, like I said, your idle temp is about the highest my temp will read... but like I also said, our cars are a lot different and I don't have as much shit going on in the engine bay as you do :(

But I do have better airflow with the front bar and bonnet, and no oil cooler in the way wither...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...