Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Going to have a crack at getting a 204L drum of powerplus e85 when I get back from overseas and run a 50/50 mix with BP98... (I'm tipping about a 15% rise is fuel requirements?!?)

Should be interesting to see how the results go on a RB20 with decent boost!

unless you can do that on the fly, you'd have to have a map for E70 to cover all bases.

Yeah thats what I was thinking youd have to have a 70 map and 85 one which is to much of a hassle and will the blends be random just by luck what you get or you know when your geting what.

E70 would help with cold starting anyway. Here are the locations, none near me of course.

http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServic...s/BioFuels.aspx

Hopefully more fuel companies will jump on the band wagon, they would be stupid not to.

what about running a permanant wideband AFR gauge and tuning the AFR's to suit e70, e75, e81.2 ect ect?

maybe leave the timing a bit retarded for e70 right through to e85, but tune the AFR's to suit each tank?

Probably more time and $$ than it's worth.

Would end up being easier to mix your own fuel in bulk at home or something...

Would anyone expect the cost of Ethanol to come down when this goes ahead? It will be more widely produced, so procuring E100 would be easier in theory....this would make mixing your own CONTROL fuel at home cheaper.

The fueltown in Melb that sell Powerplus Ethanol, do mix their own. So if you really wanted, you could get E100 from them at the servo (as some of their race customers do)

E85 is yesterday news, come on E100! :D:)

Ethanol will be going up in price as it stands at the moment. The fuel excise will increase it to $1.20L in the next year or two from what I have read.

Caltex have stated it will be significantly cheaper than unleaded which is $1.18 here at the moment so I cant see it selling for more than $1.

E100 is definitely the go, but cant legally be sold can it? I have seen a car running it from drums but realistically I cant be getting a drum delivered every week... Im stuck running what comes out of the nozzle.

speak to the guy down at Fueltown scotty - i reckon he'll let you fill up with E100 if you want. Granted, not out of the pump, but i'm sure something can be arranged :ermm:

Maybe do the car and 2 jerry's, and keep the jerry's at home.

speak to the guy down at Fueltown scotty - i reckon he'll let you fill up with E100 if you want. Granted, not out of the pump, but i'm sure something can be arranged :ermm:

Maybe do the car and 2 jerry's, and keep the jerry's at home.

I filled there last night, 160L (car and 4 jerries) the attendant said I have a huge fuel tank. LOL

When I get home I have a 44 out the back I tip the jerries into which I use to fill the car, 20psi air pressurises the drum and a servo nozzle to fill it automatically so I am well set up for E100 if I could get it home.

I will speak to him next time im down there during the day...

dude.... results MUST be shared if you get an E100 tune!!! :ermm::( :( :banana:

i thought i was crazy driving to Hoppers back in the day (50mins one way) to get a tank, plus 2 x 20L jerry's.... you've certainly taken it to another level! love your work! :D

How much better will the e100 do though, bugger all I would say. I will be looking into it, what's another map when you have 20 on the laptop already. :ermm:

With known mapping for E70, 85 and 100 I could automate it with the ethanol content sensor and set up a secondary (4th?) map on the Emanage to adjust, as long as the sensor is reliable... Not having to worry about what fuel I put in would be great. Im sure there will be units that do this coming out of the aftermarket industry as soon as there is infrastructure in place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Incidentally, I also put v3 of the tune on the car and did an oil change from 5w20 to 5w40 to see how it affected oil pressure in the mid to high end. I'm still happier with the thicker oil and will stick with it, but clearly the system is happy with 55psi even if I'm not!
    • So the other thing I got sorted over the weekend was Z1 oil catch can install. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-baffled-oil-catch-can-kit-p-23546.html It was a good kit, most importantly it came with preformed silicone hoses in the right shapes rather than trying to bend/join regular straight rubber hose. It did come with crappy spring clamps not proper hose clamps so I ditched them On the down side, it is made for LHD cars and RHD cars have the main ECU harness running straight through that location, I ended up bending 2 mounting brackets so the loom is up against the brake master cylinder compartment wall to make room for it....otherwise everything fit without modification Intercoolers off on both sides, but there was enough room to get everything done without disconnecting (and therefore having to re-bleed) the coolant lines. Each is mounted with 4x 12mm headed bolts, plus in and out side hose clamps (7mm headed, nice) and 3 electrical connectors on the navigator's side which were a real pain to undo (probably for the first time in 13 years).   Also one of the mounting bolts on the driver's side was cross threaded, thanks Infiniti/Nissan workshop mechanics. On the navigator's side, the catch can plumbs into the factory hose that goes from the cam cover PCV back to the intake.  This is the 2 new hoses in place. All simples and direct fit On driver's side, there is a bracket provided that mounts to the throttle body, they even provide slightly longer bolts to allow for the bracket thickness which is nice (although, they don't have captive washers like the factory bolts of course) In that pic the main loom brackets are not in place, once I had "adjusted" them across it now sits up against the panel and just clears the OCC The remaining problem with this is emptying it; currently you have to remove the 3x m4 bolts that hold it to the bracket and both banjos to remove it (probably dropping the banjo washers at the same time) pull it apart to empty then replace. I do have some fittings coming for a remote drain from underneath that will also add a little capacity...it is very small and will need to be emptied every oil change to be sure.
    • Noise sounds to me could be either wheel bearing related (have had similar from bearings going) or that tail shaft is still loose. Or something like a heat shield touching the tail shaft.
    • You wouldn't get away with saying the opposite, if you were there.
    • Do some wool fluff testing on the vents
×
×
  • Create New...