Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On a side note, I used a few tanks of E85 and just pulled my motor out and turbo off..

Both the inside of the manifold/turbo exhaust housing and turbine wheel are squeeky clean, amazing stuff! Almost looks like the car is running lean because there is zero soot after using the E42.5

downsides to the Ethanol's cleaning properties - where did all that crap wind up? Not that it all comes off at once of course :P

On an entirely related note (and this is going to make me look dumb) is an R33 GTS-T's fuel tank plastic or metal? Is there any materials inside the tank that can rust? It has been mentioned that if there is, filling it with ethanol would be a bad idea. All the shit in there gets cleaned out, then finds it's way through your pump and injectors, etc etc...

downsides to the Ethanol's cleaning properties - where did all that crap wind up? Not that it all comes off at once of course :P

On an entirely related note (and this is going to make me look dumb) is an R33 GTS-T's fuel tank plastic or metal? Is there any materials inside the tank that can rust? It has been mentioned that if there is, filling it with ethanol would be a bad idea. All the shit in there gets cleaned out, then finds it's way through your pump and injectors, etc etc...

Mine is metal, as long as they are galvanized the ethanol shouldn't react with the steel, 33's should be fine, not sure about the 32's.

You do run a fuel filter right?

Yes of course I run a filter - but no filter is perfect, not to mention just how quickly it could become clogged and restrict flow if huge shit is coming through.

So R33's are a plastic tank of some kind? Or are they galvanised steel? As long as there shouldn't be rust inside the tank, I'm happy.

Cats car has had a tank of ethanol sitting in it with the filler off and the pump cover removed (open to moisture for 3months) and there is no EVIL shit going on like is rumoured to happen.... i will leave it open to continue experiment :P

engine was internally mint (stripped to sell in parts) and exhaust etc is all fine.

Been running for over 18months now with no ill affects whatsoever. I too have left E85 in the tank for about 4-5months, no dramas.

I have a washable fuel filter and gets cleaned every service. The first 2 cleans had noticeable debris, after that it has been pretty clean.

Spoke to the attendant at Kambah earlier - he says within 2-3weeks they'll be pumping the good shit. They should have the equipment coming round this coming week to suck everything out of the existing E10 tank they'll be using, then clean it all out in preparation for filling with e85.

lolwut

That's retarded...when they WERE on the list, the servo had no idea what was going on...now that they're OFF the list, the servo expects it in the next couple of weeks.

hurr durr.

hahahahaa love it

Cats car has had a tank of ethanol sitting in it with the filler off and the pump cover removed (open to moisture for 3months) and there is no EVIL shit going on like is rumoured to happen.... i will leave it open to continue experiment :P

engine was internally mint (stripped to sell in parts) and exhaust etc is all fine.

can come one do a graph of injectors on E85

i.e

x6

555's = max power ____________ @ 45PSI or what ever std fuel pressure is

700's = max power ____________ @ 45PSI or what ever std fuel pressure is

1000's = max power ____________ @ 45PSI or what ever std fuel pressure is

thanks heaps

and am i right by thinking say 90PSI fuel pressure means 2x the cc?

Edited by yogibear

If you read this thread you will find there is quite a large difference in when people run out of injector duty cycle due to a myriad of different factors.

Remember a base fuel pressure is only a base. I think the standard base fuel pressure is 3 bar ~ 43psi, although it will raise 1psi for every 1psi of boost pressure. So if you are running 20psi of boost pressure then you are running 63psi of fuel pressure.

and am i right by thinking say 90PSI fuel pressure means 2x the cc?

no. double the pressure only yields ~40% more flow

skylines run a 3 bar fuel system standard, this means fuel pressure is always 3 bar (42-43psi) above inlet manifold pressure. this means theres a constant pressure difference between both sides of the injector (fuel on the rail side and air on the inlet side) resulting in constant injector flow.

  • Like 1

no. double the pressure only yields ~40% more flow

skylines run a 3 bar fuel system standard, this means fuel pressure is always 3 bar (42-43psi) above inlet manifold pressure. this means theres a constant pressure difference between both sides of the injector (fuel on the rail side and air on the inlet side) resulting in constant injector flow.

holy shit! someone who understands the basics of a fuel injected engines fuel system! well done. :)

most people have no idea. also no way is practical to take your standard 3 bar system and expect everything to be good at double the base pressure. 86psi base is going to cause some problems. first of which is most pumps will not be flowing anywhere near what they were at 3 bar under 6 bar...

if you are short on fuel supply by a small amount, 3 or 4% or something by all means use some more pressure. but anything more than that just buy the right size injectors and pumps. end of story.

  • Like 1

Just fueled up my 1st tank of E85 from Gosford caltex, i ran the tank extremely low so i would help reduce mixing of 98, then filled up @ 119.9 costing a total of $70 instead of $90 for 98,

from first start my idle went straight to 16.9 AFR from 14.3(98)

a quick change of injector size got the idle AFR back to normal,

Got my Fiance to cruise around while i touched up a few areas.

i used to get 400km to a full tank, ill see how this tank goes just cruising, then ill put a fresh batch in and strap it on the rollers,

without touching ignition timing the car feels more responsive, gave it a quick hit and it feels on par with 98, hoping to see some good gains once i tweak the timing.

current numbers on 98

293kw 18.5psi

255kw 14psi

  • Like 1

Roughly how much would I be looking at for a full retune onto E85? Obviously depends on where you go, and how good the tuner is....but for arguments sake, let's say Yavuz @ Unigroup...just wanna know if I can afford it just yet :P

Roughly how much would I be looking at for a full retune onto E85? Obviously depends on where you go, and how good the tuner is....but for arguments sake, let's say Yavuz @ Unigroup...just wanna know if I can afford it just yet :P

If you already have a full tune then a rutune on E85 wouldn't take too long...most tuners should be able to get in right in about 1-2 hours depending on how much time they spend on full and partial load maps and so on...of course this can change depending on what state the car is in and a whole load of other factors...so for your case...it depends on how much your tuner charges per hour...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ...just a note of warning, you shouldn't drive it about with the TCU in limp mode with only 3rd gear available ~ apart from the fact you end up sheering the ATF at the torque converter interface, the high clutch in these isn't especially the strongest, particularly bolted to the RB25DE mill...which is likely a 4AX01 box with lighter duty high clutch (the RB25DET got the bigger high clutch)...be careful out there...
    • Hoping to do similar mods to my RB20 once I get it running and reliable again
    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
×
×
  • Create New...