Jump to content
SAU Community

Guilt-toy Now Running On E85 !


Recommended Posts

I've got my 1000cc injectors,

After having a chat with my mechanic & tuner i've decided to go for twin walbro's in tank, seeing as i've already got one that's only been in there for a year. he's gonna try and fiddle with the mounting of the two pumps in the stock cradle and i'll be running a second fuel line for the second pump down the car to the fuel rail.

so with luck the job shouldnt be too difficult and it should flow enough e85 for my power goals and hopefully a fair bit more torque over the whole power band.

hopefully not too much torque that i break my gearbox or std rods!

In regards to plugs, with e85 do you still have to gap the plugs down?

also how long should i wait to change my fuel filter after running e85?

i've heard that i should change the fuel filter after a few weeks or a couple tanks of e85 because it can clog the filter with gunk from the tank?

i realise that if my tank is clean the filter's will be fine, but how long should i wait before changing them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To try and answer a few of your questions...

My plug gap was at 0.8 but had to drop it down to 0.6 because it started to miss, but others have mentioned they have also had this issue and moving to a hotter plug stopped the miss. I'm going to try this soon!

I changed both my fuel filter and upgraded my fuel pump after a few tanks... Neither showed anything abnormal, I know others that have done this as well and have seen nothing wrong. I think it might be a bit of a fallacy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My spark plugs are fairly new in the GTR, only been in there for around 4 months now?

I suppose I'll just have to wait and see how it goes on the dyno and see how far it can go before getting miss from the spark plugs.

Will keep in mind about going a hotter plug

Cheers for clearing it up about the fuel filters, i might just give it a little while and just change it if its easy enough after a few tanks?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not many outlets in Queensland yet.

ALEXANDRA HILLS, Cnr Finucane Rd & Cambridge Dr

WORONGARY 1 Mudgeeraba Rd

BROOKWATER, 7001 Augusta Parkway

SOUTHPORT 152 Smith St, cnr Kumbari Ave

MACKENZIE 1015 Mt Gravatt-Capalaba Road

To use it as a daily there would obviously need to be a servo close by, unless you run dual maps, e85 and 98.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not many outlets in Queensland yet.

SOUTHPORT 152 Smith St, cnr Kumbari Ave

That's only 10 minutes from my house :)

Is it just the E-FLEX fuel, or is it something else? What's the usual price per litre for E85?

If it's not too much more than regular fuel, i might look into doing an E85 conversion :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

My R33 has a stock-internal motor (ie: not rebuilt) and a GT3076 0.82.

If I wanted to switch to E85, do I just need to grab some 740's (only got 480's at the moment) and get a tune?

I've got an 040 intank and a powerFC and big fat sard reg.

If I turned up the reg a tiny bit, what would the 480CC S15 injectors max out at with E85? I'm guessing about 220kw?

Edited by islade
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just get the injectors, turning the pressure up only lowers the amount the pump flows. It should be good for 330-350 once tuned on e85, as long as all the supporting mods are up to the task. I hope you have good brakes. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dropped the GTR off today!!

The plan is bigger fuel line, second intank pump and 1000cc injectors.

hopefully it doesnt take too long.

Will post up results of the tune on e85 when its finished.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im running bcp7es 0.8gap on 17psi no missing and so far starts first crank cold start but I'll have to wait to winter to truly see it.

Nice, what servo?

You shouldn't have any issues starting on the Caltex in winter, Manildra or United's CSR blends may need a little petrol added to the tank.

Nice graph, I bet it feels strong now...

Plan to run more? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just got off the phone with the mechanic.

The second Walbro pump is fitted inside the cradle, the second pump has been connected to the std return line and he's in the process of making up a new return line. the fuel tank lid has had an extra feed into it for this return line.

The std fuel rail is going to be modified for a second feed also.

And the pumps still need to have a separate wire run from the battery to ensure enough they're getting enough power.

It seems to be all coming along nicely, hopefully it can be finished off tomorrow and tuning can start to happen if all goes well.

Fingers crossed there is no leaks

Hopefully have it back before the weekend

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice, what servo?

You shouldn't have any issues starting on the Caltex in winter, Manildra or United's CSR blends may need a little petrol added to the tank.

Nice graph, I bet it feels strong now...

Plan to run more? :)

Im going to the Mount Waverely caltex on blackburn road. Yeah the car feels great its a different car all together Ill never go back to pulp. Nah Dont think Ill push the car anymore my goal always has been if I get it to 300kw ill stop as the bottom end is stock and the car is used for drifting which is more than enough power and some street cruising to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the GTR back the other day,

It runs pretty well,

Had a little bit of trouble with the pump wiring because the relay wouldn't switch the pumps on and it would stall when i was driving.

Now that's all fixed its all good.

It makes 355rwkw on 24psi

a little low, was expecting more like 380rwkw at that boost level.

but it was a hot as day, about 35 degrees and on the dyno the air intake temps were high.

Its running rich too for safety, around 11.0:1 AFR

the tuner told me he'd rather me be down on power rather than blowing the motor when the air is cooler and the car leans out too much.

There is a fair bit of timing put into the tune, its got over 500nm of torque and adjusting the timing more didnt have any effect so he left it.

Is it true that e85 gains more power when run a little leaner? something like 12.5:1 or leaner?

I'm going to take it back there when the weather is a little cooler and get the mixtures leaned out a little more.

I remember my old tune being on pump fuel something like 10-10.5:1 so its only a tiny bit leaner on e85

I've read that there is a fine line where a fair amount of power can be gained between 11.5:1 to 12.5:1 on the same boost.

So i'm hoping that when the mixtures are leaned out i'll get to the power figure i want.

Also i think the std GTR cooler would've been struggling to work efficiently in the weather we've had.

Ah well, at least i know in the hot weather i can still put lots of power down, midrange is where i gained a lot of power, around 35kw because the graph seemed to tabletop in up in the revs

will post up graph when i can find it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would be interested to see the printout, especially the AFR. When you say tabletop, it is probably running rich as up there, plenty more power to be made leaning it off to 12 but your pistons would be enjoying all the fuel cooling them down. If you run an exhaust temp gauge they are more likely to lean out the top end as the temps are usually well under control.

Nice smell on boost? :cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...