Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dumping twice as much cranking fuel in the engine, mine still has some issues at under 10 degrees. Obviously the lower the compression and further south you are, the worse off you will be. It really chuggs through the ethanol doing short school runs in winter...

Running the EMU previously I had no cranking enrichment table. I had to fit a stock injector into the plenum, with a 1L petrol reservoir and old stock fuel pump to get me started in the mornings. It worked well.

I'm starting to think water meth is a better idea than e85. No cold start issues, more k's to the tank, no jerries in the back on long trips. Perhaps even running 98, a secondary e85 tank and another set of injectors might work out better for me.

My car has no problems starting in the Icey cold winter monings on e85 must be atleast below 5•c outside cause there's ice on the roof and windscreens frozen starts first kick like I said before either you let it idle for a minute or if your in a hurry you just have to be smooth on the throttle for the first minute

It's all in the tune

Aslong as you have a good tuner and good spray pattern injectors should be fine cause in my brothers car when he had high flow std injectors it idled worse than my car on cold start and barely cauld accelerate for the first minute or 2 and that was on pump 98 the tuner told him the spray pattern was shit and it would have bad fuel economy and cold start so on e85 would be worse so definately need a good set of injectors Aswell

I've had my Nismo in tank flowing E85 for a good 4 years. Pulled it out for a check before Xmas and both the sock and pump looked brand new.

I have a magna fuel filter which I cleaned every 500km for 3000km then every oil change after that.

I guess I was lucky in having a clean tank to start with but I know a few people who have had dramas with pumps failing and filters blocking very quickly.

I've had my Nismo in tank flowing E85 for a good 4 years. Pulled it out for a check before Xmas and both the sock and pump looked brand new.

I have a magna fuel filter which I cleaned every 500km for 3000km then every oil change after that.

I guess I was lucky in having a clean tank to start with but I know a few people who have had dramas with pumps failing and filters blocking very quickly.

:whistling: :whistling:

They are, it's just that ethanol cleans ur tank and lines so most of the time ur fuel pump filter sock gets full of crud

I'm gona keep and eye on mine for the first month or so of using ethanol

They are, it's just that ethanol cleans ur tank and lines so most of the time ur fuel pump filter sock gets full of crud

I'm gona keep and eye on mine for the first month or so of using ethanol

I was one of the unlucky ones with a dirty tank, i blame it mainly on the idiots that removed my fuel pump ages ago and left the tank open for a few weeks :domokun: Since then nobody touches my car but me or JEM.....

I had a billet filter but it wasnt fine enough so the injectors copped it, after that we went back to Ryco inline with it and kept blocking those filters.... We re-did the whole system and cleaned the tank and its perfect now!

E70 in general is amazing BUT i had a lot of bad luck in a row which made it look pretty bad!

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry to crash thread but i'm trying to find some quick answers without starting a new topic. I have an R33 GTS-T with a GCG Highflow turbo (XTRGTST). What power range could I excpect to get out of it?



http://www.gcg.com.a...mart&Itemid=101

There are other ways to scratch a little more out of each setup, but it gets expensive for small gains. Larger exhaust will help, as will larger cooler piping/intercooler, at the expense of response. Porting the head and cams will gain some more power also, with the same response losses. If you want more power than that, it is usually suggested to jump a turbo size or two as it's cheaper, but everyone has a different setup, funds and goals.

The hassle is the stock rear housing, depending which one you have it will restrict the amount of airflow you can get out the back, thus limiting your power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...