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it does have a big steel pipe in the middle of it! so the standard pipe is still there but because of the steel pipe it does not suck in. i have been making 245kw so far.

Wind it up a bit, and get it hot enough and the bottom bend will suck in.

so i got a bit keen today and went for a drive to the united and grabbed 40 litres of e85.

went to try and syphon it and got it on my lips, damn it burnt!! so i gave up on that idea....

we had a spare 044 pump laying around so i hooked it up with a garden hose straight on the return line to the tank! took a little bit of time but it worked a treat and nobody got a gut full of ethanol !

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so after that, it was tune time!! my favorite part, its where i get to sit on my arse and do what i do best!

So after about 15 minutes of scaling the injectors and a few power runs later i managed 257kw at 12 psi, an increase in 13kw just from changing the fuel and re-tuning it. I may have been able to get more power but i was just keen to turn the boost up!

Before and after dyno compare sheets of 98 and e85.

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So yeah i got a turbosmart boost tee from Repco, $65... chucked it on and turned the boost up and tuned it, the boost goes to 22psi then falls down to 16... I think it is because of the rear housing but i guess there is a slim chance that the intake pipe is sucking shut... Might get one made just to be sure...

Managed a cool 278kw making the power at 16psi, i did not want to push that little turbocharger past 22psi on spike so i decided to call it at that, if i had a decent ecu and could tune the duty cycle over rpm then this would have been alot better, but this is a budget build! i did have a adaptronic but i sold it when i was saving up to buy the dyno.

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The 2 tunes overlayed, 98 on 12psi and e85 on 16psi... sooo much massive midrange increase!!

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And some more pics of the night... burning the eprom

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So i took the car for a spin, and it seriously comes on really hard and just broke traction all the way up the road, then the second time the clutch slipped and burnt out soo bad, never have i smelt such a strong burning clutch like this did today, even after letting the car sit for an hour the car still smelt pretty bad...

Anyway on the way home the clutch seemed to grip ok, it just does not like being abused, and the car feels and sounds amazing! i had no idea it would go this good, i was seriously thinking about upgrading to a td06 kando setup but after this tune i am pretty satisfied! when you change from second to third its still in the power band and it just accelerates instantly like a high powered NA car.

Now i know how people feel on their way home after visiting the toy for some loving! i was pretty happy with the car.

Just need a clutch now! might change the spring in the actuator or go for a external gate on the manifold.

Cheers for reading, too bad i missed out on the 300kw, but im sure if i was able to hold 20psi all the way i could have got there or very close to it. the clutch could have also been slipping on the dyno slightly!

  • Like 3
  • 6 months later...

Anyupdates on this guilt toy? I havea 2535 put back on my r33. Basically want a fun reliable and fast car for the street/hills. Got al the supporting mods exceptecu at the moment. Was thinking of the Adaptronic plug in as I dont want to use a afm and a flex fuel tune is what I want for practibility and e85 will gain awesome results as youhave 280kw atw's.would you recommend the Adaptronic? I def want to use launch control anf flex fuel ect. Also want to be able to have my tuner set up a very good milage tune on 98. Do you think it would be worth running a 38mm external gate off the housing/manifold to help control boost better and get rid of some heat? Or do you think I could gain better results using a kando .73 t3 gt28 rear housing with the external 38mm gate off the housing. As the hks housing is only .64. And maybe even adding a kando 11 blade 69mm billet comp wheel. The 2535 comp wheel is 56 trim 69mm cast and just thought maybe could gain even more with a billet wheel and ex gate off the kando t3 gt28 .73 stainless rear housing. Or maybe have a 71mm 52/56 trim or even 73mm 50/52/56 trim billet wheel machined and balanced into the 2535 comp hoising. What are your thoughts? Id love 300kw with the 2535crazy response. Probably smarter to go the proven gtx3071r route but beingdifferent is cool.

ps any updates on yours?

GTX3071 can easily make 300atw on petrol, something slightly smaller will be much nicer to daily, but don't choke the hot side, make sure it will flow well with a larger housing. .73 is good, I have used the Kando housings, the gate welds to them just fine, although I prefer the stainless Tial knockoffs.

Hypergear have tested hundreds of combinations to suit your engine, so you may be best going for the tried and tested turbo's he sells, but I agree, it can be good to frankenstein parts together, especially when the results turn out better than expected.

External gate off the housing is the go, but not a 38, I usually use the 45mm vband Turbosmart gates. Works better on dedicated external housings without the internal gate hole to slow the gas speed.

Personally I don't like the flex sensor, it's just another part to fail. I stick to a straight e85 tune and swap back to petrol in the servo with a laptop if I have to. That is something I have never had to do, as once you go e85 you will never want to put petrol in again. The Haltech elite is the best answer if you plan to run the flex sensor.

Thanks scotty would you mind pm'ing me your phone number to organise my other r33gtst. I need you to make all the cooler piping for a high mount setup and gate off housing to dump pipe off avband rear gtx3071r or plain cast wheel gt3076r or some turbo similar. Want the ultimate 350kw turbo for alround use. Will also need you to setup a top feed rail injector kit xspurts 1000's or the new 1300's? But if I can get a number we can organise things?

Cheers josh

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the late reply, 10 days.. thats not too bad!

One of my injectors died 2 days later!! the clutch would grip when driving hard if you respected it, but one night it just started running on 5 cyl and worked out number 1 injector had no resistance across the pins.

so i took the set of injectors out, sold them as a set of 4 for a SR and then went back to 98 and standard injectors, got it up to 242rwkw.

here is a video of the last run it had on the dyno

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=749150425181453&set=vr.749150425181453&type=2&theater

You cannot go wrong with the adaptronic mate, it is the very best and cost effective ecu for just about any street car! in fact there has only been one case where i had to suggest a different ecu in the last year because the guy had some interesting requests which are not normal for a daily.

as for changing the 2535, good luck with it, the turbo is old and there may be some gains. a 38mm gate off the manifold is always the best way to go. search SAU the answer is here !

Anyupdates on this guilt toy? I havea 2535 put back on my r33. Basically want a fun reliable and fast car for the street/hills. Got al the supporting mods exceptecu at the moment. Was thinking of the Adaptronic plug in as I dont want to use a afm and a flex fuel tune is what I want for practibility and e85 will gain awesome results as youhave 280kw atw's.would you recommend the Adaptronic? I def want to use launch control anf flex fuel ect. Also want to be able to have my tuner set up a very good milage tune on 98. Do you think it would be worth running a 38mm external gate off the housing/manifold to help control boost better and get rid of some heat? Or do you think I could gain better results using a kando .73 t3 gt28 rear housing with the external 38mm gate off the housing. As the hks housing is only .64. And maybe even adding a kando 11 blade 69mm billet comp wheel. The 2535 comp wheel is 56 trim 69mm cast and just thought maybe could gain even more with a billet wheel and ex gate off the kando t3 gt28 .73 stainless rear housing. Or maybe have a 71mm 52/56 trim or even 73mm 50/52/56 trim billet wheel machined and balanced into the 2535 comp hoising. What are your thoughts? Id love 300kw with the 2535crazy response. Probably smarter to go the proven gtx3071r route but beingdifferent is cool.

ps any updates on yours?

  • 2 weeks later...

anyone seen what happens when e85 gets into the oil?

scared the crap out of me!

This is where low temp thermostats become a really bad idea. You really need to get the oil hot to evaporate the ethanol/moisture into the catch can. Over 80 degrees is the minimum I run, the Grex oil thermostats are set around that temp luckily.

Short runs to the shops won't help the situation, but then if you do that regularly you fuel economy would be woeful on e85.

Started getting milk in my oil cap. i started to worry about a blown gasket, then the oil started getting it too, but it was weird that only the top of the oil had the milk and the bottom of the oil was fine!

So i drained the oil out, and some spilled out... and this it how it looked...

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I was scratching my head! and started searching online and people were talking about how the new e85 107 race blend has a green dye in it!

I had previously tuned the car and the oil turned to this after about a week of driving in and out of the workshop.

The oil smelt like e85, so i took the injectors out and got them tested, results were 120 120 90 140

So the e85 was going into the oil and created a green spew like substance because of the green dye in the race blend.

there you go! after a couple of oil flushes and a replacement set of injectors everything is good again!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

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