Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as much as i love my car iv apparently done something wrong to the cops, defecting me for the second time in less then 2 years.. Pay rego for it to sit in the garage collecting dust..

Well here is the sitcho. Well i got defected where else but chapel st, but befor you say u stupid c*** asif do chapel laps.. i wasnt, i live near there and i was goin to rebel sport at like 3pm during day.

ok so here is the damage:

Parcel shelf - inspect for structural integrity(previous owner cut holes for 6x9's)

Bumper Bar - inspect for structural integrity

Pod or intercooler, not both.

Windscreen - to be inspected

Tyre placard - to be fitted

So i got my stock airbox and windscreen has nothing wrong with it, think he just felt like writing more that day. But the big problem im having is "Inspect for structural integrity" went to the mechanics today and the guy said i have to get engineers to have a look at it :P... well just wanted to know if this is correct and if it is dose anyone know were and how much this is going to cost me???

Thanks for reading

I had to get checked for structural integrity when my car was being repaired.

Its not a big deal really, cost me $100 and an hour of my time. Brought the car to the engineer along with photos of the repair project, he looked at the chassis and a few other things and signed a piece of paper.

did you repair it your self?? or did you have the engineer repair it??

Repaired by my old man and uncle and then taken to the engineer for approval. Actual cost was $138.40. Took four hours from an accredited workshop. No big deal really.

dude being defected for the second time in less than 2 years is not alot, i would call that being pretty lucky.

try being defected 2 times in 3 weeks!!!!

and as for what u wer defected for, they are no major problems, wen u start getting sent for epa emmisions tests then u know u got a problem

lol my old datto got 13 defects and i didnt even let them get under the bonnet to see the 230hp z18et in there lol

:D

list goes :

exaust

too low

no interior

aftermarket gauges

battery not secured (in boot)

no spare tyre

front mount

no parkers

only one seat (drivers)

to loud

bald tyres

non standard wheels

hole in trans tunnel ... had rb20 gearbox so had to cut shifter hole

full roll cage

locked diff

some people get all the luck lol

dude being defected for the second time in less than 2 years is not alot, i would call that being pretty lucky.

try being defected 2 times in 3 weeks!!!!

and as for what u wer defected for, they are no major problems, wen u start getting sent for epa emmisions tests then u know u got a problem

damm 2 times in 3 weeks yea i would be priddy pissed if that happend.. Its just that after spending all this money keeping the car on the road never have anything for mods..

thanks for making me feel abit better though :D lol

ahh thanks heaps for that, called daniel up and booked it in for Tuesday for him to take a look. Hopefully he can do something about it and dosnt cost me an arm or a leg.

Thanks again

So how did it go? Or aren't you talking to me LOL ?
  • 1 month later...
So how did it go? Or aren't you talking to me LOL ?

sorry mate, well not much has happened atm, tried to get it towed there but racv wouldn't let me.. So me and daniel agreed on me sending him some pics of the parcel shelf.. He even offered to drive down to my house to have a look.. ***top bloke** But i have been really busy atm so havent got around to it..

Lost my license till December 22nd so its not a top priorety atm.. but hoping to sort it out next week..

post-24404-1227538274_thumb.jpgpost-24404-1227538322_thumb.jpg

post-24404-1227538335_thumb.jpgpost-24404-1227538347_thumb.jpg

post-24404-1227538362_thumb.jpg

thought i might chuck up the pics, just so people can see what happens when you get your speakers installed by autobahn.. lol :P

thankyou for everyone that helped

will hopefully be able to post up "cars back on the road" in a couple of weeks :)

Edited by Fugi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...