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which turbo for my R33 GTS-T??


borry
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Hi All,

Im at the stage where i have run out of things to spend my money on... well not quite. Im looking at replacing my standard turbo on my R33 GTS-T and was hoping to pick the brains of some of you more experienced buffs.

I might start off by telling you what parts ive already purchased BUT have not yet installed.

6 x 550cc SARD injectors

Nismo fuel pump

TSI ECU (see www.unigroup.com.au and click on the TSI button for details)

Heavy Duty brass button clutch.

Current mods:

full exhaust system

cold air induction

Intercooler (300x600x40)

Objective:

kick ass performance when kicked in the guts

nice drivability (similar to stock turbo at low revs)

decent fuel efficiency.

I wanna buy a turbo which is more efficient than the stock turbo and which is more durable. I understand that the stock turbo uses a ceramic shaft and blades?? i want the turbo to handle upto 15psi all day everyday. I will be installing a 2 stage boost controller which will be intergrated into the ECU. settings will be somthing like... stage 1= 12psi stage 2= 15psi.

Also i may note that i wanna leave the engine internals stock so i will only be limited to around 15psi on short bursts. ie track for 0-400m runs. I will be cruising around on 12psi every day.

SO... what do you guys recommend :D

Cheers

borry :burnout:

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does anyone know where i can find technical specs on different turbos? ill be really interested in reading anything that explains the characteristics of the different turbos on offer. I realise that the characteristics depend on the engine type, but im sure there are some data sheets or something that explains how efficient the turbo is?

ive been browsing around and found some interesting facts on the garrett site

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...Leaflets3_2.jpg

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...Leaflets3_1.jpg

another thing ive notices is that many performance workshops recommend the GT 2535 or the GT 2540

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Originally posted by SHUTO-BOY

ive got a garret T04, it bolts on the stock manifold(may have custom one made in the future), and pumps out 352rwHP at 15psi,

but GT30 is better

Don't you mean t3/t4?

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Originally posted by rb25

you could hi-flow the stock turbo, that way it bolts straight back on, no mods to water, oil lines etc...

Only if you dont change the housings. The housings are pretty small. I'd be inclined to change em. But that means new oil and water lines, down pipe, maybe inlet pipe.

Depends what you want. You could ask a hundred different people and get a hundred different answers, I know!

For some sort of hybrid semi bolt on(as in using the stock manifold) you'd be lookin at between $1500-$3000.

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Originally posted by rb25

GCG do hi-flow exchanges for about 2200, but im sure you could get it done for alot cheaper than that at another place....

They use there own ball bearing pack so the turbo stays ball bearing. Many hiflows aint. The stage two costs $2150, uses t34 turbine wheel and to4 comp wheel, Machined stock housings rated at 500hp. This is 100% bolt on, dont have to change a thing. But I don't like the size of the stock housings, I think this set up flows fairly shit.

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Originally posted by rb25

GCG do hi-flow exchanges for about 2200, but im sure you could get it done for alot cheaper than that at another place....

I had my R33 turbo built and flowed by cgc for 1800 (450hp build)

and im very happy with it... Its making 232rwkw at 1 bar...

With some more boost theres room for plenty more kw....

LePpErFiSh....

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The housings are pretty small. I'd be inclined to change em. But that means new oil and water lines, down pipe, maybe inlet pipe

Damn... more money to spend... i just got my dump pipe installed which cost me $320. How good are the GT 2535's in comparison to the other equivalent turbos on the market which arent bolt ons? Is it worth getting a non bolt on turbo and modding the oil and water lines + a new dump pipe? Are their many more benefits from a non bolt on turbo as apposed to the turbos that are avail for RB25DET that require mods to the lines and exhaust?

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well the advantage of a hks 2530 and such is they will bold straight on to your standard manifold. HKS have a patent on their conpressor blades and matches or something. so they do stand out above say an equivalent garrett or such (although HKS turbos are made by garrett, but garrent arent allowed to copy the HKS design) the difference is that the HKS 25xx series is that they come on boost very early and are capable of producing very high and efficient boost. the 2530's efficiency range is something like 1.4 - 1.7bar, thats pretty high boost for a fairly small turbo. the advantage of that is you have a very responsive turbo producing good mid range as well as being capable of flowing good top end power.

hope all that made sense

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sure does bbenny, thats exactly what kinda info i wanted to hear. I kinda had my mind set on the HKS 25XX after checking out different websites. Key features for me would be an all round turbo with good response and acceptional mid and high end power.

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Hi Borry, we have a GTST with a RB25DET that at 1.2 bar makes 240 rwkw or 320 rwhp or 300 kw or 400 bhp (whatever way you want to express it). It recently did a 12.4 at Eastern Creek with standard weight.

The turbo of choice for us is a GCG ball bearing hi flowed, standard RB25DET turbo. They put new upgraded bearings in it, new shaft, new seals, new turbine, new compressor, machine the compressor housing and the turbine housing and micro balance the rotating bits. This means it is basically a new turbo since all of the wearing bits are new or machined to new specs.

Since it was the turbo off the car, it fitted back on without any mods, the oil, water, inlet, outlet, exhaust, all fitted straight up, no fabrication required at all. Car is a daily driver, sees the occasional track (drag and circuit) has been this way for over 26 months, no problems. It's a great all round turbo.

I have seen many non standard turbo fit ups and they all suffer from lack of developement and quality of fabrication in comparison to the Nissan standard. Using as many of the standard hoses, pipes, fittings, clamps etc etc is very appealing when it comes to reliability.

If you buy a new HKS turbo you will be looking at double the cost, plus the cost of fabricating the fittings. If you buy a used HKS turbo, well it is after all a used one and you are taking a risk.

Hope that adds to the thread

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