which turbo for my R33 GTS-T??

[Steve]

Originally posted by Sydneykid

...

Hi big carl, the split dump makes a lot of difference and we find a lot of cars have cheap and nasty cat's fitted for compliance.  I good hi flowing cat will help if yours is affected this way.  We see 8 to 10 rwkw from the split dump and as much as 10 rwkw from the hi flow cat.  So your 204 rwkw is pretty much on the money, particularly when atmospheric conditons are taken into account with different dynos and operators.

I wouldn't worry too much about 1.2 bar, we get the above result at 1.1 bar but I have seen brand new boost gauges differ by more than 0.1 bar.  As long as you are happy, that's the main thing.

Summary time:

Spend 2.2- 2.4k on a highflow, you will get the same power at 1.2bar that a stock turbo will make at 0.85bar. Plus its exchange price, so add another 400-600 for the sale of your old turbo that you will miss out on. Total cost $2700 to $2900 approx (may be a bit more may be a bit less), you still have a high flow turbo, ie made from a second hand stock item. And you still have to fit the turbo yourself.

HKS - you can buy one in excellent condtion for 1.5-1.8K second hand, sell your old turbo to cover the cost of fitting - cheaper turbo, more power, cost 1.5-1.8K fitted.

there you have it.

[Hicks]

Thats how i'm doin it.

But not HKS.

How much could I sell a stock turbo for??

[Anquetil]

Originally posted by Hicks

How much could I sell a stock turbo for??

Was just thinking the same thing myself, a search revealed about $350 -$500

[Steve]

A second hand parts dealer will sell a stock RB25 turbo for around $600 in decent condition. If the turbo is in excellent condition it would be easily worth around that. GCG give you around $450 trade in on your turbo when doing a high flow.

Hicks, what turbs are you getting?

[Sydneykid]

OK so it's summary time, here is mine.............

buy second hand HKS turbo, spend $1800 including freight

wait 4 days for delivery

get turbo and find its only has 0.4 bar wastegate actuator

buy new 0.7 bar wastegate actuator $250

wait 2 days for delivery

try to fit to car but find out flange was T25 (seller said T3 but it isn't)

buy replacement turbine housing with T3 flange $400

wait 3 days for delivery

try to bolt up replacement turbine housing only to find one of the threads is stripped on core

drill and hellicoil replacement thread $80

lose 1 day

fit up turbo, find water hose flange is dash 8 but standard turbo is dash 6.

Buy dash 6 adaptor $50

fit up turbo but find that oil hose flange is dash 8 too

Buy dash 6 adaptor $50

drive half way across town to get them same day

fit up inlet and find turbo is 90 mm but standard turbo is 85 mm

buy 90/85 silicone adaptor $65

lucky, found one only half an hour from home

compressor outlet has left hand 90-degree outlet, need 90-degree right hand outlet.

buy 90-degree right hand outlet cost $80

3-day delivery from Garret

finally finish fitting turbo, run car and goes great but find turbo has noisy bearing

replace bearing $350 and rebalance shaft

Now, not all this has happened to one turbo but every one of these things has happened at least once to a second hand turbo I have seen. I have yet to buy a single turbo that didn't have at least one problem when I got it home and tried to fit it.

It's a lottery, are you feeling lucky?

Me I'll take a guaranteed product every time. When we buy a ball bearing hi flow from GCG, every wearing part is replaced with new parts or machined to new specs. It is micro balanced and it has a guarantee. Best of all since it came off the car, you know it will go back on.

To answer Shane's question, yes you should talk to your turbo shop and they can recommend a mix of components to suite your circumstances and requirements. Best of all they can supply a compressor map so you can see what is going to be the result.

Hey Steve ever seen a HKS compressor map? Oh that's right they don't publish them, wouldn't want the customer knowing what was going on would they?

[Steve]

Thats just a little childish isnt it?

[king_kw13]

hehe steve - have u got an HKS turbo installed? have u had any troubles installing it?

[Sydneykid]

Sorry Steve, I don't think it's childish to expect a compressor map. How else am I supposed to match the turbo up to my engine specs? Guess?

[DoughBoy]

Compressor maps? We don't need no stinkin' compressor maps. What ever happened to blind faith? Guess no one is religious here...

[Steve]

If you know what a turbo performs like, because thousands of people have used them with great success, why need a compressor map? I would also ask how many people read a compressor map before selecting a turbo? Alot of people ask what experiences others have had when making their mind up. If you know it works why do you need it? Getting a turbo selection right requires alot of research. Even with all that research sometimes it goes wrong. There are guys on here that have bought highflows only to find that they surge and have to take them back to get sorted, repeatedly. Now if a turbo shop can get it wrong, how hard would it be of the average guy on the street. It makes sense to go with a turbo that is well matched to a car. If all you had to do was read a compressor map, then this thread would be totally invalid and superfluous. Its not.

Just as a little example in retort to your list of the many things that go wrong buying a second hand turbo

HKS 2530, reconditioned, polished compressor housing (for that rice effect) with braided lines $2200, any test welcomed before purchase AND 10% discount for SAU members - this is a turbo that was sold at D1 garage. Fitted up without problems, worked beautifully as they do.

There are horror stories, but with a bit of care, it can be a success story.

They do come up in great condition at ALOT less than GCG charge for a recon.

king_kw13

I have a HKS 3037S 56T. Troubles fitting it? none.

[HKSgtst]

hey guys,

If i buy an T04, do i need to change exhaust manifold or is it bolt-on ? Thanks !

[Simonster]

Hey guys, chill out. You both have your opinions and they are valued by the forum members. Sounds like you're both starting to get too worked up over a difference of opinion.

And in the end it's just that, an opinion offered to forum members, lets leave the "my dicks bigger than yours" mentality out of it

[bigcarl]

thanx for the information, youve answered my question and basically confirmed to me that its not my turbo holding me back! and although i dont think i mentioned that iam still running my standard cat , iam. ive had fast fit exhausts here in dandenong melbourne fit my 3 inch exhaust and i didnt realise at the time that even though the front pipe is 3 inch, that the dump pipe is still stock. also they seemed to think that the difference between the stock cat and 3 inch was barley a few kilowatts! i think i will definately be upgrading to 3 inch cat and split dump pipe asap! any ideas if changing cams or porting my head with this turbo substatiate a worthwhile gain or is this practise more for the bigger boys running their 600hp garret turbos? whats the most do you think that i might able to get out of this set up? or would i be better of upgrading gcg st1 450hp turbo for a st2 500hp gcg turbo if iam wanting anymore than 220 plus rwkws? as you can see iam still green , ive want to absorbed as much info as i can before do anymore to this car.

[Steve]

bigcarl, if you are running a highflow, it should easily support over 220rwkw. The stock turbo can make it there, just has trouble remianing in 1 peice because of the ceramic turbine wheel. What are your final hp goals?

With cats, some 'high flow' cats are not much better than the stock one. Perhaps someone else can help you out a bit more, as I have a special highflow for exactly that reason.

An adj exhaust cam gear would help mid range and top end, as well as help bring the turbo on boost a bit quicker. As for worthwhile gains, it depends on how you quantify a worthwhile gain. If you havent already, try fitting a lightened flywheels. Second hand jap ones that weigh around the 4.5kg mark can be had for $350. wont really improve top end, but will give you MUCH better responsiveness.

what mods do you actually have? alot easier to make suggestions if that is know first.

A couple of ideas to think about anyways. It is alot easier to make suggestions if you tell us what mods you have and what power you are chasing and what application it is for street, track etc.

[Sydneykid]

Hi guys, don't worry Steve and I agree to dissagree all the time. I actually enjoy the thrust and parry, it would be very boring if we all agreed on everything.

[bigcarl]

my mods are as follows: st1 450hp gcg turbo, running 1.2 bar. link ecu, malpassi rising rate regulator. gtr front mount intercooler utilising stock 2.5 inch pipes to inlet manifold. 3inch exhaust straight through to barrel style muffler with 3 inch inlet and 4.5 inch tip. running standard dump pipe, cat. uni filter pod. ive still got air flow meter connected even though using map sensor link computer. i originally wanted 225 rwkws plus for mid to high 12s but since realised 240rwkws plus is more the ball park for this result? i dont mind upgrading turbo if need be , but would like to develop current package to maximum potential and seeing how she drives before embarking on any upgrades. currently i only drive the car on country roads and it is not my main mode of transport but i couldnt live with any combination that doesnt spool up by 3500rpm? thanx for any imput. this is the best forum ive been on so far!!!

[Steve]

ditto sydneykid

[Steve]

Originally posted by bigcarl

my mods are as follows: st1 450hp gcg turbo, running 1.2 bar. link ecu, malpassi rising rate regulator. gtr front mount intercooler utilising stock 2.5 inch pipes to inlet manifold. 3inch exhaust straight through to barrel style muffler with 3 inch inlet and 4.5 inch tip. running standard dump pipe, cat. uni filter pod. ive still got air flow meter connected even though using map sensor link computer. i originally wanted 225 rwkws plus for mid to high 12s but since realised 240rwkws plus is more the ball park for this result?  i dont mind upgrading turbo if need be , but would like to develop current package to maximum potential and seeing how she drives before embarking on any upgrades. currently i only drive the car on country roads and it is not my main mode of transport but i couldnt live with any combination that doesnt spool up by 3500rpm? thanx for any imput. this is the best forum ive been on so far!!!

Well you have most of the major stuff done already.

First thing I would suggest is get a fuel pump. Your stocker wont give much more.

A partition and CAI are cheap and good mods if you are using a pod. you can quite easily make these yourself. A cold air feed is pretty important with a partition though, otherwise you could be robbing yourself of power.

As suggested before, get a 3" system all the way through.

Your clutch will probably be close to its last legs - gotta get the power to the ground. If you go single plate I would suggest having a look at a lightened flywheel.

Adj exh cam wheel are a good addition too, seen these from around $80 second hand.

If you are just using a bleed for boost control, try an EBC - much better, boost harder sooner.

Get it all tuned and buy some decent tyre with grip, you will need them.

[Sydneykid]

Hi bigcarl; my suggestions..

1. Upgrade to a standard GTR fuel pump

2. Upgrade the dump (split wastegate and turbine outlet is good).

3. Make sure the cat is not restrictive, if it is then get a hi flow cat.

4. We use the Autospeed boots control for $125 it's a winner, check it out here

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

Hope that helps

[Yakuza]

hey guys,

what turbo sizes/models are bolt-on to the RB25det std manifold ? thanks..