Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i purchased my r34 GTT 2 weeks ago and yea i thought it was going great but yesterday i visited a mate that has good knowledge about cars and he test drove it told me that my boost cuts of at 5k rpm to redline.... i felt it too when i was driving it and i thought its suppose to be like that be he recons that it should be non stop till it hit the end.. why doez it cut off any ideas?

and another thing i should have asked this question a long time ago but yea didnt bother lol. my car got a electronic valve controller what doez it do and how to i set it?

tnx guys,.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239589-my-boost-cuts-off-at-5k-rpm/
Share on other sites

First thing you should do before looking into elctrics is check the piping and connections for any leakage.

I had picked up my car from the chop shop (different story for another day) and on the way home the car was doing the same thing as yours i.e. losing boost ~4500rpm+.

I got home and checked the piping to find one of the connections under the airbox wasn't tightened properly. I adjusted it and fixed the problem.

So that's what I think your problem is. A fix that costs nothing except for a bit of time and effort. :banana:

c0ol stuff guys ill take it to a mech. now see whats the go. ill keep all the points you guys suggested. and yea DAN im not sure how much boost is on it going to mech now to get it checked. it has warranty anywaiz wahehehehe

update:

too it to my local "I-S motor racing" and yea the guy said that change my plugs and coils

the HKS turbo timer in the car is ancient he said they would have a clue how to do it or check.. so yea luckily i have 5 years platinum warranty on the car so yea ill take it to the mechs to get it fix..

im still hoping for the best hahaha

PS any1 selling a Turbo timer and boost controller?? im keen.. and any1 can help me fit them will have a case of beer in their fridge

cheers!!

you dont NEED a turbo timer, they are only for if you thrash your car then get out of it but want to leave it running for a bit to cool down

are you in brisbane?

will fit boost controllers for beer!

i could also take a look at your boost cut issue...

Edited by gfunkk
  • 2 weeks later...

i had the same problem in my old r33 it was runnin a haltech e11v2 tuned to run 12psi low and 23psi high but wasnt goin past 10 i checked all my pipe work and plugs and they were ok. I took it to the mechanic twice and he cldnt get the software to work on his laptop so i just ended up selling it now its someone elses problem :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...