Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-42272-1284923483_thumb.jpg

Meguiars now has this kit minus the drill of course

Although to get best results u NEED to get some wet 2000 grit paper and give the light a rub first....u will actually see all the yellow/brown shit running off with the water then u use the buffing pad and polish as recommended

The wet sand produces a much better finish and it last longer than if u use just the polish

The Mothers kit has the rubbing pads included...dont know why the hell meguiars didn't include it too

post-42272-1284924175_thumb.jpg

Hi.

This subject has been done to death in the past.

Dont waste your money on these overpriced "fixes" , Go and buy a tin of" brasso "from the supermarket it will bring them up like new and you can spend the money you save on something else.

i used meguires scratch-x with a woolen buffing pad on the drill. takes like 10 seconds per light (takes you longer to get the drill, etc).

advantage of scratch-x is that you can use it on the paint as well.

hey Mate,i had same problem ,regarding ugly looking headlight's.i read number's of post in here about "how to restore headlight's" i found so many usefull things in them.

But never got courage to sand my car's headlight's,one day i was in Repco in port adelaide area.And i found headlight restoration kit on spacial,i think it was $50 but i got them $35 as i remember.

i just follow the instruction,yeah i sand my car's headlight and they are looks brand new.

kit called "headlight restoration kit" and made in USA company name Invision..check it out mate,wont disappoint ya.

hey one more thing,they gave me couple of small sand papers(wet and dry),that was not enough so i bought couple of them from MITER10,(wet and dry sand papers,400,600,800,1000,1500,2000)and sand my car's headlight's properly and then follow the instructions and all good..

hey one more thing,they gave me couple of small sand papers(wet and dry),that was not enough so i bought couple of them from MITER10,(wet and dry sand papers,400,600,800,1000,1500,2000)and sand my car's headlight's properly and then follow the instructions and all good..

Dude...u dont need such coarse paper!!!!

U are just giving your self extra work by creating scratches with the 400 and then trying to clean it up moving up in grades....after a few polishes that way u might not even have any lens remain!

2000 alone is more than enough and u must use it wet

  • 5 months later...

ive searched like crazy but cant find it. someone has a full write up on doing this to his R34 without buying a very overpriced kit. just alot of elbow grease and the right products............anyone know where its gone?

ive read alot about just polishing them....but the more you polish the faster and worse it comes back.

yeah i got one of those kits and they are rubbish..the only good thing in them is the uv potectant which im sure you could purchase on its own somewhere..

What they contain is

5 grades sandpaper...avoid sanding at all cost if you do just use 2000grit, otherwise you will spend ages buffing small scratches that will never really come out .1 sheet of 2000 grit paper is about 1$ .

Special cleaning formula...its f**kin windex your mum will have it in her kitchen cupboard

buffing compound... Well most of us have a bottle of scratchx or similar for our paintwork anyway so why buy more as an added bonus the scrathx will work better thn the stuff they give you.

chux clothes and a scourer...also in your mums kitchen cupboard

So for 1$ and a trip to mums you have cleaned your headlights just as well as a 35$ kit If you dont sand them you shouldnt need the uv prtectant anyway...

Anyway i learnt the hard way but lucky for me the guy at autobahn forgot to scan my kit so it was free anyway..

But dont waste your money on it kids..better yet ,use the money you save to buy your mum some flowers you know she deserves them, oh and tell her i said Hi ;)

mum says hi back, and you can come pick up your panties any time :nyaanyaa:

yeah just bought a bottle of plastix, 1 sheet of 2000 grit, and thats about it. platix has the protectant in it apparently, thats why i bought it over scratchx. total cost $23. and im sure it will do alot more headlights than the kit does for $40

the plastix should do most of the cleaning anyways. and ive got a clean aplicator pad here anyways so im set.

oh, and dont forget to get some masking tape for around the bumper and grill so you dont sand and polish it.

Edited by boiracer

plastix hey.

Will that work on other plastic as well, like the cowl panel under the wipers for instance, mines rather faded

Keep putting armourall on it and it will get better... slowly.

I've used

PlasticX

ScratchX

and glassylite or whatever its called (basically a kit.

Plastic X in my opinion was to harsh and left fine scratches, it cost alot and i've never used it again.

Scratch X i use regularly and it's pretty much the same as plasticX but doesn't leave scratches.

Glassylite was probly the best but it lasts about 8 months to a year then you have to buy another kit and do it again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, all the crude is used for fuels and petrochem feedstocks (pesticides, many other chemicals, etc etc). But increasingly over the last few decades, much of the petrochem synthessis has started with methane because NG has been cheaper than oil, cleaner and easier and more consistent to work with, etc etc etc. So it's really had to say what the fraction either way is. Suffice to say - the direct fuels fraction is not insigificant. Heavy transport uses excruciatingly large amounts. Diesel is wasted in jet heaters in North American garages and workshops, thrown down drill holes in quarries, pissed all over the wall to provide electricity to certain outback communities, etc etc. Obviously road transport, and our pet project, recreational consumption camouflaged as road transport, is a smaller fraction of the total liquid HC consumption again. If you're talking aboust Aussie cars' contribution to the absolute total CO2 production of the country, then of course our share of the cubic mile of coal that is used for power generation, metallurgy, etc adds up to a big chunk. Then there is the consumption of timber. Did you know that the production of silicon metal, for example, is done in Australia by using hardwood? And f**king lots and lots and lots of hardwood at that. Until recently, it was f**king jarrah! There are many such sneaky contributors to CO2 production in industry and farming. NG is used in massive quantities in Australia, for power gen, for running huge water pumps (like, 1-2MW sized caterpillar V16 engines running flat out pumping water) for places like mine sites and minerals/metals refineries. And there are just a huge number of those sort of things going on quietly in the background. So NG use is a big fraction of total CO2 production here. I mean, shit, I personally design burners that are used in furnaces here in Oz that use multiple MW of gas all day every day. The largest such that I've done (not here in Oz) was rated to 150MW. One. Single. Gas burner. In a cement clinker kiln. There are thousands of such things out there in the world. There are double digits of them just here in Oz. (OK< just barely double digits now that a lot of them have shut - and they are all <100MW). But it's all the same to me. People in the car world (like this forum's users) would like to think that you only have to create an industrial capability to replace the fuel that they will be using in 10 years time, and imagine that everyone else will be driving EVs. And while the latter part of that is largely true, the liquid HC fuel industry as a whole is so much more massive than the bit used for cars, that there will be no commercial pressure to produce "renewable" "synthetic" fuels just for cars, when 100x that much would still be being burnt straight from the well. You have to replace it all, or you're not doing what is required. And then you get back to my massive numbers. People don't handle massive numbers at all well. Once you get past about 7 or 8 zeros, it becomes meaningless for most people.
    • @GTSBoy out of the cubic mile of crude oil we burn each year, I wonder how much of that is actually used for providing petrol and diesel.   From memory the figure for cars in Australia, is that they only add up to about 2 to 3% of our CO2 production. Which means something else here is burning a shit tonne of stuff to make CO2, and we're not really straight up burning oil everywhere, so our CO2 production is coming from elsewhere too.   Also we should totally just run thermal energy from deep in the ground. That way we can start to cool the inside of the planet and reverse global warming (PS, this last paragraph is a total piss take)
    • As somebody who works in the energy sector and lives in a subzero climate, i'm convinced EV's will never be the bulk of our transport.  EV battery and vehicle companies over here have been going bankrupt on a weekly basis the last year. 
    • With all the rust on those R32s, how can it even support all the extra weight requirements. Probably end up handling as well as a 1990s Ford Falcon Taxi.
    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
×
×
  • Create New...