Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time to choose a boost controller for my R33 GTR.

Does anyone use just a simple boost tap? Or is it not a done thing? (I was thinking about using the TurboXS Hi-Po one)

This is my first twin turbo set up so I'm not really down with what people use. I've used an eboost on my previous car but I felt it was a waste of money as I never changed the settings/used the features.

I don't need to turn it up and down regularly or switch between different settings, just hold the one setting sufficiently (20psi).

What are your thoughts peeps? What do you use?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240184-gtr-boost-control/
Share on other sites

I dont run one... and plenty of other cars (all racepace customers) dont either :(

You cant say they lack response due to gate creep or anything that a EBC sometimes might alleviate

Maybe head down, have a chat and save yourself some money?

I never planned to run one with 20psi... although im stuck @ ~ 12.5psi for a while until i find money :)

Infact, with the 4 different setups ive had in 5 years... ive never used a EBC once now i think about it

Yeah I use one of the $20 options that was recommended on here, that guy that was making them.

Holds 20psi everyday flawlessly so I don't see a need for anything else, I don't need real time flashy bar graphs or any bs like that.

So I would recommend one of those, search for $20 boost controller should come up with the thread. Otherwise if your a poser a HKS EVC *runs*

Edited by James_03
I dont run one... and plenty of other cars (all racepace customers) dont either :laugh:

You cant say they lack response due to gate creep or anything that a EBC sometimes might alleviate

Maybe head down, have a chat and save yourself some money?

I never planned to run one with 20psi... although im stuck @ ~ 12.5psi for a while until i find money :D

Infact, with the 4 different setups ive had in 5 years... ive never used a EBC once now i think about it

+1 for Racpace style controller.

Simple and effective.

Spend your money on other mods.

Do they still use the standard boost solenoid with a different restrictor or is it boosted solely off the wastegates?

Yeah I use one of the $20 options that was recommended on here, that guy that was making them.

Holds 20psi everyday flawlessly so I don't see a need for anything else, I don't need real time flashy bar graphs or any bs like that.

So I would recommend one of those, search for $20 boost controller should come up with the thread. Otherwise if your a poser a HKS EVC *runs*

Yeah thats what I was thinking of using. The price is right and the feedback is good. Don't need to look at gauges and fancy shit, gotta watch the road! Was just curious as to if they were just as good with a twin turbo setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...