Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What do you guys think?

I don't know enough about car....but it looks loose to me.

Also when the engine is running, there is a leak sound from the left side of the engine area.

If you are referring to the fitting with the yellow paint on it....that is supposed to be like that. And it helps if you can identify the item you are referring to. Paint is your friend.

As for finding vacuum leaks. An easy way to do so is buy a can of Aerostart and, while the engine is running, spray it over all the vacuum hoses and pipe connections. You will notice what happens when you hit a vacuum leak. Spray a tiny bit into the air filter to test it out.

By 'left side of the engine area', you would be referring to the Turbo side....but I'm guessing you are saying left because it's on your left when you are looking at the engine bay from the front of the car. You will be able to hear the PCV valve sucking at idle and it makes a noise like a leaking vacuum hose. Check it all out anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240245-leak-sound/#findComment-4197638
Share on other sites

Hi guys, thanks for the replies.

Yes initially there was a very loud/obvious leak sound, I could hear it when I am inside the car and finally I found the split end of the hose!

I cut it and then connected back again.

Before I notice this split end, I posted the picture because it was in the night and too dark to identify the origin of the sound

so I could only suspect the yellow connection whether it is loose or supposed to be like that.

Since you guys said that it is supposed to be like that, i guess it should be fine.

(actually I still hear a sound tho....not the fan sound)

besides engine sound, fan sound, and a sound from the pod filter, I still hear another sound.

Can someone please confirm the Aerostart can be sprayed on any hose when the car is running? isn't it flammable?

is there any part I shouldn't spray?

I will do it. Last tank of fuel was 19L/100kms because of this leak.

post-51769-1224072078_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240245-leak-sound/#findComment-4198022
Share on other sites

Hi guys, thanks for the replies.

Yes initially there was a very loud/obvious leak sound, I could hear it when I am inside the car and finally I found the split end of the hose!

I cut it and then connected back again.

Before I notice this split end, I posted the picture because it was in the night and too dark to identify the origin of the sound

so I could only suspect the yellow connection whether it is loose or supposed to be like that.

Since you guys said that it is supposed to be like that, i guess it should be fine.

(actually I still hear a sound tho....not the fan sound)

besides engine sound, fan sound, and a sound from the pod filter, I still hear another sound.

Can someone please confirm the Aerostart can be sprayed on any hose when the car is running? isn't it flammable?

is there any part I shouldn't spray?

I will do it. Last tank of fuel was 19L/100kms because of this leak.

Yeah, just don't spray it on your exhaust. Even if you did it would be fairly hard to start a fire as it evaporates before it does so.

I use this method all the time and have not once had an issue. Only spray it on the pipe connections and the vacuum hoses and you'll be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240245-leak-sound/#findComment-4198072
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...