Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: RB30DET - RB25 VVT Head

Age: <300KM old

Condition: Excellent, Very little use

Price: $5000 ONO (Open to Offers for a quick sale)

To Fit: (What car) VL or Skyline

Location: Deniliquin NSW

Contact:

Comments:

Engine was built for our last Race car but since then have a GTR landed. Engine was run in, Made 306RWKW on 18PSI with a Power FC, 700x300x120 Intercooler & 3.5” Exhaust & bosch 040. Engine was purposely built with lower compression ratio to run some serious boost.

Head

RB25 Head, mild match porting, RB25DE Cams with RB25DET Valve springs, Rear external Oil Drain, VVT Disabled internally, RB26DETT Rocker Covers powder-coated Red (cost $450 by the time they were coated), head was professionally welded & resurfaced.

Block

RB30E Block, was freshly rebuilt to STD spec, Brand new idler & Tensioner, Gates RB30DET Racing timing belt, RB25DET Oil pump, Sump modified for external oil drain returns (on either side), Currently Has R33 Engine Mounts

Mods: (everything was brought brand new within the last 6 months unless specified & barely used)

Some of our rough costs

$400 -Front facing Plenum, Greddy Style, but had over 10 Hours match porting & Cleaning up.

$200 -80MM throttle Body

$820 -Sard 850CC injectors

$2500 -Trust Greddy TD06-20G Turbo, manifold & wastegate (2nd hand – but in excellent condition)

$320 -Z32 AFM

$550 -Splitfire Coil Packs

+ there will be stuff I have missed.

Comes with loom but no ECU (loome suits front facing plenum & Z32 AFM)

In reality the engine owes us over $8,000 to have built up & tuned, as you can see just in Mods there is over $4,000.00

Urgent Sale, need to make final payment on GTR.

Looking for a quick sale $5000 or nearest offer.

Engine does not come with Power FC – as it has already been sold.

Cheers

Have some video & pics to follow

Yeah also have an OS Giken tripple plate clutch with heaps & heaps of meat left on it - $1000 ONO

R33 Rolling Shell with a full 6 point welded cage, R34 Rear end (with mechanical diff), ohline rear coil-overs, tein front, 3.5" exhaust, Jun front bar & side skirts, URAS rear bar, front Adjustable caster & camber arms, all brakes, etc

Racecar only (complete minus headlights basically(except no interrior) has manual pedal box, etc

(cage is built to CAMS spec, but has not got approval yet). Front gaurds have been flared, body is in canary Yellow

$3000 ONO (cage cost $2500 to have fabricated)

Also R33 GTST gearbox, in good condition $1500 ONO

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120318536610

Listing it Guys, 5-day Auction....

If anyone is interested contact us ASAP and it will be taken down

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=120318824694

EBAY CANNED THE LISTING 3 TIMES BECAUSE OF:

MENTIONED IT WAS ADVERTISED ELSEWHERE

MENTIONED OPEN TO OFFERS

MENTIONED THE SHELL FOR SALE IN THE LISTING

BASTARDS! CHARGED ME EVERYTIME!!!

Willing to send overseas Dock - Dock, buyer to organise freight from the dock in their country & customs etc...

With our dollar where it is at the moment, cheap time for anyone to buy from overseas!!

Have a few people internationally interested..

Cheers

hey, im interested in the head and block assembled, not needing any boltons at all, if your willing to separate let me know a price iand i will take it.

cheers, let me know.

very interested

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...