Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You might have a problem. Usually mixture related, possibly a faulty AFM, or bad tune on an aftermarket ECU. Going off the fuel gauge isn't very accurate though, fill it up and work out your L/100km.

Anything higher than 15 or 16L/100km around town usually indicates a problem. But even if it's fine, you can usually tune it and get it down to around 14 or less. Low 13's is pretty good, anything less is a bonus. On the highway you should be getting around 10 or 11 tops.

My r33 GTS4 (non turbo) has horrible fuel economy.. sure i do drive with the foot down a fair bit but even then i get around 16L/100KM.. i havent had it actually "tuned" since ive had it (1year) but i thought the ECU does that itself?

my car is fully stock, probably only spend about 20% of driving time with the bost gauge in the positive boost area.

so it would be a good idea to get some new plugs and clean the AFM?

if this doesn't work does anyone know of a good tuner arounf the liverpool area?

related threads on this topic are rampant throughout this forum, do a search and see what other people are saying....this only indicates you're not the only one who thinks they have fuel problems/issues - so is it really an issue or is it just paranoya???

imho, in sydney, because of the traffic and petrol quality i would be extremely surprised for a stock rb25 to average better than 350-380km a tank. i've noticed people from victoria with extremely good fuel consumption figures, but they dont have the traffic of sydney, they probably have better fuel & it depends on the type of driving they do...highway vs city

i have a powerfc tuned to about 12:1 AFR and i will consistently hit 400km with a mix of city/highway/full throttle. before the tune i would be lucky to get 380km per tank.

unfortunately, you can't tune your ECU as its stock. you will have to get an aftermarket fuel controller (apexi safc) or replacement ecu to do this.

how many km's has the car done? if its not time ie. 50,000 or 100,000km's you might try as everyone says, re-gapping your spark plugs, replacing your airfilter element, cleaning your AFM & replacing the fuel filter.

...but otherwise, live with it! its a 6 cylinder turbo. its a performance car. performance requires fuel. having said all this, you're still doing better, from a fuel consumption perspective, than a V8 or Rotary! :D

Hey franks, i was not complaining, just surprised, in my old 180sx (2ltr with 14psi exhaust etc) i used to drive with the throttle fully imbedded into the carpet most of the time and it still returned better figures than my skyline and this surprised me, that is all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you manage to fix the problem? I’m having the same issue but everything is new in my gearbox   
    • Was looking for some help Recently got the speedtek gearset installed all gears work fine goes in and out of gears smoothly, only issue is that it crunches from the downshift from 5th to 4th. Also had new uni clutch installed aswell track edition   any help will be appreciated   
    • My plan is to go the pink option. But still add the 4th fitting near the oil cap and just cap it off for now.  That way I can add 2 extra to the sump and have 4 dedicated breathers/drains if I ever remove the sump for any reason. 
    • Oh, yeah, look - here's the thing. You always replace the tensioner when you're going in there to replace a belt....under normal circumstances. You want to make sure it is good and safe, and that you don't create a reason to take the front of the bloody motor apart again. But in this case, OP is replacing a belt that has aged out on time, not usage. The belt is a million miles away from aging out on usage. The belt gets a time "limit" merely because it is made of rubber and can degrade naturally. The tensioner? Not so much. I reckon it could last forever on the current usage pattern. So I reckon if the thing is going to continue to get used at the same rate, replacing the tensioner is somewhat gratuitous. Would I replace it if I was doing it on my car right now? Hell yes. Because my car does 10-20 thousand kays a year. So it's all going to be the same thrashedness. Would I YOLO it on OP's car. More than likely.
    • I dunno. I think any one of those from each side to sump is probably enough. Remember - this is about creating a path for gas flow up from the sump to the cam covers. That gas flow then has to leave via the lines to the catch can. There's probably little point in providing 100% more capacity from sump up to covers cf. what you have from there to the catch can. Put in the 3 convenient ones? Any which way that you see fit. That'd be my thoughts.
×
×
  • Create New...