Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With the price of these cars coming way way down, shold see a rise in popularity! For me the fact that the rb25+box is factory fitted, with better brakes etc stronger drive line makes it an appealing package if u can pick up a cheap one. My sedan is slowly getting there, few more suspension bits needed to make it handle better.... but all cars, r32, all the s chassis etc need suspenension mods to be where most owners want them! :down:

Yeah you have to wonder really. Theres a misguided perception that they're heavier but in reality the difference is a massive 50kg (1370kg vs 1320kg); wow, 3.75% heavier. R33 is stiffer, wider, has a better motor, stronger gearbox, bigger brakes, more power, more torque... All on basically the same suspension layout which works fine for R32s. So given that a usable s1 is often cheaper than the now overpriced R32s, its weird you don't see more.

Only reason I can think of is that plenty of 'drifters' are more into what is trendy.

Edited by floody

Yep, those where the day's.... now it sits in the garage, never driven... it is a terrible shame that I'll have to set right by christmas...

I found some fotage of it before I smashed it the first time.... Oran park... so decent angle out of the old girl... and a good bit of inspiration.

But PLEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE don't tell the missus I won't to get it going again...

:) :) :)

I know this is an old post but thought i might throw in some info for people looking.

My team mate had a street tuned R33 last year and it was grate fun to drive. i drove it both on the street and on track and i liked it.

if you are an Average australian built bloke or bigger you may find it much more comfy over the s13 and r32s.

i currently have a R32 and it has a rb25 and gearbox in it but i was neally contemplating swapping it for this year with my team mate as i loved it so much.

A few facts. they have the same steering rack as an S14 which is rumored to have more lock than other nissans (this is false. as we compared S14 to other nissans) so even without the lock spacers that i had in my r32 the r33 had more lock.

The front suspension setup is far more advanced that that of the r32. the geometry of the front end can allow you to achieve a lot more grip.

The rear sub frame is the same or be it similar to S14 and R34 which offers far more grip than the R32.

The car we had ran a hiflow turbo which is by far the worst thing you can ever do to one. it was lagy then it dropped power off far to much. a HKS2530 would be ideal for tight stuff and learning as they come on so strong but they are limited to around 230rwkw. somthing out of the new GT30 series of garrets would be ideal once you had the basics. a friend of mine has a GT30 somthing on a rb25 in r32 and it is pretty off tap.

oh then RB25 engines can produce a safe 260rwkw and with forgies the sky is the limit. or 300 rwkw.

the gearbox is tuff as funk. i flat shift with mine both during drift and circuit.

the diff ect is good but they really need a good LSD as we had endless problems with shimming the stock diff.

and the hand brake is a let down. once a gain we had issues there and all that was needed then was hydro hand brake.

so once you have spent a year or so involved with drifting and taking to top level drifters you will learn that the things that an r33 has on it will be a massive advantage.

But i i was going to get another drift car i would get a S14 as they have so much after market support ist not funny.

Dan,

plz post pics and vids of your r33 in action pls!

I'll see what I can find around the place.

Might take a little while though, I have a fair bit on atm.

DJRIFT makes many good points. Including the last one :)

  • 2 weeks later...

we had a few R33's at the VIC Drift Champs at Winton last weekend.

R32BigBoy's pics from the day are here:

http://pa.photoshelter.com/c/jrmphotograph...000jAD.zi1Ck0k/

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...