What To Look For When Buying A Skyline

[livo]

Hi all,

As some of you are aware im looking at buying a skyline. Theres 3 or 4 really tidy ones in sydney im going to look at.

So what should i look for???? things that someone who knew what they were doing ie - a mechanic could hide from the everyday punter????? what things did you look for/at when you went down this road yourselves???

im fairly mechanically minded but any help is good......

cheers,

craig.

[Bullet32]

Hi Craig,

There are a few good questions to ask and some pretty obvious things to look out for.

1. Ask when the 100k service was done and if they have reciepts for it.

2. All too often owners dont know whether it has or has not been done so a good indicator is to listen for a rattle, hum or rythmic knock from the timing cover on the front of the motor (sometimes a new timing belt can hum a bit if it has been over tightened).

3. Always drive the car so that you can feel how the shocks, brakes and steering feel... Usually if the steering feels heavy or very loose it can indicate that the HICAS (4 wheel steer) is on the way out or dead completely.

4. Skyline engines (especially) RB25's are very prone to dropping coilpacks, make sure that you listen carefully to the engine when it is hot for a miss - this could be a dead coilpack (they're not cheap to replace).

5. When driving the car, listen carefully for a squeal or high pitched whine when the engine comes on boost, the standard turbos tend to become tired and worn out if they have been boosted over standard pressure and they squeal when damaged.

6. The general condition of the cars interior is a good indicator of how it has been looked after, if the seats, dash, console, carpet etc are badly damaged and/or really dirty it usually indicates that the owner has not cared for the car very well at all.

7. The owners general knowledge of Skylines is usually a good indicator of whether they have a real interest and passion for the car... If they dont know what HICAS means, or what type of oil to use that usually means they arent really an enthusiast.

I think thats about it... I cant think of anything else at the moment

I hope this helps.

[sl33py]

Mick summed it up pretty well. I would add:

1) Judge the car by it's condition rather than the km's on the clock, since it's well known that people mess with the odometers of imported clocks (ie wound back to look newer).

2) It might seem silly, but if you're looking at stock(-ish) cars, pay attention to bolts/clips/screws etc. The more cars you'll look at, the easier you'll be able to tell when fixtures are non original, and it means some work or modifications have been done there. EG if there's a random bracket sitting in the engine bay, ask yourself, wtf did that used to hold... maybe a boost controller? maybe something as innocent as where an alarm used to be. Check out as many engine bays/cars of the sort you want to buy, that way you'll be able to tell the subtle differences between them. Take a mate 'in the know' too if you can.

3) Check the paint very closely along the edges of the black window linings. A lot of places don't bother to pull out the linings when repainting a car and simply tape around. Mine has this (since before I owned it) Repainted panels more often than not = repaired crash damage.

4) If it's a 33, play with the AC a LOT!! They are well known to f*ck up over time - the cogs which control where the air goes sometimes snap off, leaving the AC system going "clack clack clack". Most annoying, and the motors themselves are about 100 each, but the labour to put them in is NUTS! Right down in the depths of the dash. Just take the AC through its range of temps and also change where the fan is blowing. That should show it if its happening. It may also do it when the car is started up.

5) As nice as it might be to check out the stereo, do that while stationary When driving, listen to the engine!

6) Check for leaks in the boot. Undo the trim on the left side of the boot, you can see down into the area actually UNDER the boot space. I had a leak there for a while which I didn't know about cos it's hidden away. Also pull out the boot floor and tyre and check for signs of water/rust.

7) Very few cars will be perfect... go for 1) mechanical condition 2) interior condition 3) 'niceties' ie it has the kind of stereo you like already. You may well end up having to choose a car which is 95% perfect and just needs a bit of twiddling. Just make sure you know how much that 5% will cost you, especially if it's related to road-worthiness! I guess that's just bargaining room though

8) BIGGY: Allow another 10-15% of the cost of the car for stuff that WILL go wrong It's... inevitable Mr Anderson *grimace*

[Bullet32]

Some good points there Ben

This is a great thread for people looking to purchase a Skyline, perhaps it should be a sticky for new members to refer to when they need advice on what to look for in a future purchase... Shell?

[CeJay]

this is a good thread but you've probably already seen it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu...e-f-t35129.html

I'd add, check the inside of all the tires to see if they're bald, I got caught out with that, outside of tyre had tread, inside didn't.

Don't trust the kms on the car, judge it on the condition of the car.

[GTRKat]

4. Skyline engines (especially) RB25's are very prone to dropping coilpacks, make sure that you listen carefully to the engine when it is hot for a miss - this could be a dead coilpack (they're not cheap to replace).

Interesting, I might be seeing a little of this in mine. They'll all be changed in a few weeks with new loom

What's opinions on whether the cover should be left on or off specially during summer??

[sl33py]

Yeah was about to say there's already a thread.

Coilpack cover - I doubt the plastic cover would make any difference while they're working. Might extend their life one extra week over the course of a decade And if they're stuffed/on the way out, just having the cover off won't help, cos it's the electricity arcing out to the block, the heat has already made it's impact. The trouble is knackered coilpacks is that it can be hidden (to a degree) by reducing the plug gaps, making arcing just a little less likely. But it reappears eventually (caryard did this to me when I bought mine).

I'm thinking about a new set of spark leads too, see if it fixes up the occasional miss at idle (and across the revs too, I bet).

btw: to test for coilpacks being stuffed: remove the cover, wait til night, find some quiet road, warm the car up, do 4-5 HARD accelerations (hard LAUNCH isn't important, revving out IS, you want boost and engine heat), then pull over somewhere without streetlights, pop the hood, look into the engine with your head directly over the block. Against the dark of night, you should be able to easily see the arc jumping... just don't stick your head too close hehe

Edited October 16, 2008 by sl33py

[livo]

THIS IS MY FIRST CHOICE SO FAR!!!!!! WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK????

Hi Mate I have a R32 GTS-t type M for sale if your interested it's a 92 which is a series 2

Colour is black 2 door 5 speed turbo.I bought the car 2 years ago it was stock std I got

the car for me and my farther to do a little project to gether we are both mechanics by

trade my farther use to build rally cars so I can assure you everything that has been done

on the car is top class.It took me a little over 12months to find this car I must of looked

at 30 plus vehicles to find this one.I have only done 10,000kms in the time that I have

owned it and all the parts me and my farther have fitted.

The performance parts fitted:

ARC side mount Intercooler (good for 200rwkw +)

K&N Panel filter

Iridium platnum spark plugs

R33 turbo (std boost 10psi) std turbo also supplied.

HKS split dump pipe

HKS front pipe

Catco cat converter high flow

Trust PE11 power extreme cat back exhaust

Cam gears fitted and tuned for mid-range

Computer re-map by Dr-Drift (I drove all the way to Melb to get this done he is that good and the only person I could trust to tune it)

Oil cooler and filter relocater kit with modifyed inner wheel arch to allow more air flow

GTR Front brake upgrade

DBA 4000 Wiper slot rotors all round (near new)

Brake pads are fairly new

New and upgraded suspension bush's fitted (Caster/front camber/pineapples)

Bilsteins shocks fitted front and rear almost new (Height adjustable)

Whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear

Hi cas lock bar

Strut braces front and rear

Walbro fuel pump up-grade

GTR front seats (std ones thrown in)

Turbo timer hidden in ash tray

Nardi steering wheel included but not fitted

3 point car alarm

Tinted windows

CD player with remote

Im sure I have forgotten somethings,all the std parts come with the car.This car is turn key and away you go

no need to spend a cent on it and all mods are quaitly fitted as I'm very very fussy.And car is clean I have had

a lot of people comment on how clean the car is.I can assure you that you wont be dissapointed with this car its

getting very hard to find a good one these days that hasn't been in a crash or rust or shitty workman shift

performed on the car.

As for condition of the car mechanicly spot on only a few cosmetic things

which can be very easily fixed

:1 x small dent on the passenger rear quarter panel (can be pulled out)

:Mark on front bumper have paint ready to go was quoted $100 to spray

:The steering wheel is on the way out I have a Nardi wheel sitting there

but I like the feel of the std wheel

All the caps of the doors bonnet and boot are all even and the paint on

all the bolts are intact so has never been crashed,car has no rust and

being std when I purchased it was the only way I could be sure

that what I got was not thrashed or a drift pig

Of the top of my head that is all I can think off.It's a genuine car and

worth your time having a look,I reakon once you have a look and test

drive you wont be dissapointed.Forgot to mention that it is running

155rwkw on std boost setting and is very smooth and predictable to

drive with awesome brakes and suspension all matched to work

together as a unit.Any questions please feel free to ask or give me

a buzz

[CeJay]

Sounds good but I'd be concerned about

Oil cooler and filter relocater kit with modifyed inner wheel arch to allow more air flow

if he's cut into the wheel arch, not sure what dickson would say about that.

[GTRKat]

LOL thanks Sleepy but that sounds way too technical for me and if there's a "don't stick your head too close" warning then it sounds like something that Ed should be doing instead!!

I'm changing all the coilpacks and the loom as part of my rebuild. In regards to the cover I had been told that in summer with it on that it gets too hot and can shorten their life? I dunno how much truth there is to that or if it's just a bit of bullshit cause the pain in the ass I bought the car from couldn't be bothered finding it for me.... I have a "new" one here waiting to get sprayed in a few weeks. Dunno whether to leave it on or just put it on when I want to show it off and make it look pretty.

[CeJay]

talk to two different people you'll probably get two different answers, I think it's hot enough under there anyway, not sure if taking off the cover would make much difference, there wouldn't be much cool air around there to circulate.

[GTRKat]

I dunno, it's more expensive but I like to get work done myself so that I have receipts, some sort of warranty and full knowledge of what's gone on. Problem with themm having done work themselves even though they are mechanics is that there's probably not much documentation to go with the mods that they have made. I'm just a bit wary of that.

Edited October 16, 2008 by GTRKat

[sl33py]

Haha if I can do it, you can Kat!

You can also cut the plastic cover in half neatly if you want to be able to get it on/off without too much pain in the butt. Mine's like that, can hardly tell unless you look closely.

[GTRKat]

Are we talking bout the same thing cause mine aint plastic??

[djr81]

Sounds good but I'd be concerned about

if he's cut into the wheel arch, not sure what dickson would say about that.

The wheel arch will probably be the guard liner, which is plastic.

Eg like this:

[Frink]

HPI magazine did an article on this exact topic a couple of months back. it was pretty detailed from memory, i recommend you track down a copy (i think i might even have it, i will dig it up for you if i can )....

everything to look for has mostly been mentioned. i'll only say this.... Dont buy it without driving it 1st!!! you can tell so much about a car just by driving it for a little while. if your unsure, then take someone with you who knows what to look, listen and feel for. it could very well be the difference betwen a dud and a winner....

[CeJay]

The wheel arch will probably be the guard liner, which is plastic.

Eg like this:

fair enough didn't read the other part, probably right.

[a20089]

Here's another one that you may consider,

How much does the person care about the car and does the care factor equal the amount of money they have. Most skylines are underserviced due to a lack of cash. That fully sic fellow may love his car but did he spend the money on the maintenance.

I purchased mine from an older, well actually very old fellow who maintained it without adding a heap of stuff to it. Only things that have gone wrong are items that wear out due to normal use, not bad servicing.

[naughtyruski]

Check the cooling system condition, check the radiator, if its dirty or looks suss dont touch it!

I have just bought my second high performance car, both never made 7,000km in my hands before they were rubbish.

I have just discovered to today my R33 has a blown head gasket caused by corrosion and damage from an unserviced radiator, which i have just replaced also. When things like this are neglected and the damage is done its only a matter of time before something goes wrong and you wont be able to see it happening.

Looks like the beast if off the road for 4-6months for a top engine rebuild. Going to do Cams, computer, injectors, highgrade metal gasket. And looks like need a new roof after the bonnet incident. Stretched the metal beyond beating. Loving the new bonnet thoug. Tell me what you think. Just got it last night

The best tip I can give anyone is treasure your cooling system and buy bonnet pins!

Edited October 16, 2008 by naughtyruski

[TURISMO]

THIS IS MY FIRST CHOICE SO FAR!!!!!! WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK????

Hi Mate I have a R32 GTS-t type M for sale if your interested it's a 92 which is a series 2

Colour is black 2 door 5 speed turbo.I bought the car 2 years ago it was stock std I got

the car for me and my farther to do a little project to gether we are both mechanics by

trade my farther use to build rally cars so I can assure you everything that has been done

on the car is top class.It took me a little over 12months to find this car I must of looked

at 30 plus vehicles to find this one.I have only done 10,000kms in the time that I have

owned it and all the parts me and my farther have fitted.

The performance parts fitted:

ARC side mount Intercooler (good for 200rwkw +)

K&N Panel filter

Iridium platnum spark plugs

R33 turbo (std boost 10psi) std turbo also supplied.

HKS split dump pipe

HKS front pipe

Catco cat converter high flow

Trust PE11 power extreme cat back exhaust

Cam gears fitted and tuned for mid-range

Computer re-map by Dr-Drift (I drove all the way to Melb to get this done he is that good and the only person I could trust to tune it)

Oil cooler and filter relocater kit with modifyed inner wheel arch to allow more air flow

GTR Front brake upgrade

DBA 4000 Wiper slot rotors all round (near new)

Brake pads are fairly new

New and upgraded suspension bush's fitted (Caster/front camber/pineapples)

Bilsteins shocks fitted front and rear almost new (Height adjustable)

Whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear

Hi cas lock bar

Strut braces front and rear

Walbro fuel pump up-grade

GTR front seats (std ones thrown in)

Turbo timer hidden in ash tray

Nardi steering wheel included but not fitted

3 point car alarm

Tinted windows

CD player with remote

Im sure I have forgotten somethings,all the std parts come with the car.This car is turn key and away you go

no need to spend a cent on it and all mods are quaitly fitted as I'm very very fussy.And car is clean I have had

a lot of people comment on how clean the car is.I can assure you that you wont be dissapointed with this car its

getting very hard to find a good one these days that hasn't been in a crash or rust or shitty workman shift

performed on the car.

As for condition of the car mechanicly spot on only a few cosmetic things

which can be very easily fixed

:1 x small dent on the passenger rear quarter panel (can be pulled out)

:Mark on front bumper have paint ready to go was quoted $100 to spray

:The steering wheel is on the way out I have a Nardi wheel sitting there

but I like the feel of the std wheel

All the caps of the doors bonnet and boot are all even and the paint on

all the bolts are intact so has never been crashed,car has no rust and

being std when I purchased it was the only way I could be sure

that what I got was not thrashed or a drift pig

Of the top of my head that is all I can think off.It's a genuine car and

worth your time having a look,I reakon once you have a look and test

drive you wont be dissapointed.Forgot to mention that it is running

155rwkw on std boost setting and is very smooth and predictable to

drive with awesome brakes and suspension all matched to work

together as a unit.Any questions please feel free to ask or give me

a buzz

That SOUNDS pretty good, but still get it all looked at and make sure there is nothing wrong with it.

LOL thanks Sleepy but that sounds way too technical for me and if there's a "don't stick your head too close" warning then it sounds like something that Ed should be doing instead!!

I'm changing all the coilpacks and the loom as part of my rebuild. In regards to the cover I had been told that in summer with it on that it gets too hot and can shorten their life? I dunno how much truth there is to that or if it's just a bit of bullshit cause the pain in the ass I bought the car from couldn't be bothered finding it for me.... I have a "new" one here waiting to get sprayed in a few weeks. Dunno whether to leave it on or just put it on when I want to show it off and make it look pretty.

Surely you are getting Splitfires, right?