Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 5 weeks later...

breather pipe can be tough to get off, it can take a lot of force and wriggling to get it loose, keep track of all of the screws, there will be a few, i spose there isn't really a lot to it, there is a tutorial around here, im going to do mine either 2mro or during the week

will post pics if you like when i get around to doing them

Edited by RusH_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4263191
Share on other sites

Its a pain in the ass !!!! I did ours on Friday had to dismantle the intake and all the pipes etc in the top of the motor. Thats the most time consuming part after that its quite easy. It was a little different to the tutorial as ours is a NEO engine but it is much the same.

As has been said keep track of your screws as there will be a few and take your time.

Good luck with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4263403
Share on other sites

It depends on your power output. If you have a sub 200rwkw car then iridiums are good, but if you have a 200+ rwkw 'line then your better off with coppers. The iridiums have a long and trouble free life but don't provide the fattest brightest spark, so if you have knock issues with a bigger turbo etc then coppers are probably a better option. Not saying it will solve your problem, but its more likely to help than iridiums can.

Basically, iridiums are not a performance plug, they are more a maintenance free plug.

And before anyone queries, 200rwkw is just the start, I actually had no problems with my iridiums till I went from 240 to 280rwkw [different turbo install] and had to make the change to coppers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4264885
Share on other sites

It's best after ALL THAT WORK to use the high quality NGK Grade 8 Iridiums for your car (or equivalent)

+1

make sure you gap them right, dont drop em either haha

+1

Hmm.. didn't know that copper ones could solve knock issues.... have to look into that. I assume they're cheaper, as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4269679
Share on other sites

try around $3 a plug not $20. I use coppers from the recommendations made in various threads in here not to mention CRD used a set of em when they tuned my car. I use NGK BCPR6ES gapped to .8mm but I'm going to the BKR7ES gapped to .8 as well on the next service.

My VN with a small cam, chip and exhaust has been using the same set of Iridiums for 80 000km and they are still fine, so for a near stock application they could well be perfect - the amount i've saved there not having to buy sets of 8 copper plugs more than makes up the high inital cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240450-spark-plugs/#findComment-4270222
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...