Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Wanted to get some opinoins on what i should once my engines ready.

Once its done should i clock some Kms on it before the tune or should i get it tuned first?

I'm predicting the current tune will start the engine and run it but how well i dont know.

Would like to hear what people have done to their own engines

Running a HKS Fcon V pro

Thanks

John

crappy mob pic of engine

post-2023-1224130350_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240452-tunning-vs-run-in/
Share on other sites

Bed the rings in with constant revs (no idling) for about 10 mins and then throw it on the rollers and tune it once everything is up to temperature (which it will be if you've just fired it up and run it for 10 mins.

If things were going to get loose after 1000kms/5000kms/10000kms, they just weren't done up tight enough.

Start it, tune it, race it. That is all.

If things were going to get loose after 1000kms/5000kms/10000kms, they just weren't done up tight enough.

Start it, tune it, race it. That is all.

Agreed!

Once the rings are bed in, tune it up. My two motors so far done that way, as with countless other motors all over 350rwkw minimum :P

yeah i would assume he means constantly revving it, not allowing it to idle, but dont hold it at the same revs all the time???

You can vary it a bit if you like but it's not essential. This is one of those topics where everyone has their own idea and arguments form at the drop of a hat. The key is not to let it idle or lope along at low revs. The best analogy I can think of is that your engine runs more smoothly at revs than it does at idle. Higher revs idle (3-5krpm) keep the cams turning smoothly and 'true' to their centre and also keeps oil pressure/flow up to the valvetrain and this is what you want.

Bed the rings in with constant revs (no idling) for about 10 mins and then throw it on the rollers and tune it once everything is up to temperature (which it will be if you've just fired it up and run it for 10 mins.

Pretty much what my mechanic did and loaded the crap out of the engine on the first few passes.

But there are alot of other new items in an engine build, other than bedding in the rings, that's why he made me bed in the engine for a 1000km before doing a final tune and allowing me to cruise on the Fwy/Hwy. The "bed-in" tune was pretty much 95% of the final tune; once things have worn in the engine does get a bit looser, thus the final tune is done.

My mechanic built the engine, so i just done what he felt best. As stated earlier, everyone has their own opinion on the issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I used the radium thing, makes the whole parallel assembly a lot more compact compared to any other way of doing it 
    • Racetronix also sells those ethanol content sensor bypass blocks. Adapter, Flex-Fuel E85 Sensor High-Flow Bypass, In-line No Sensor (ADF-FLEX-NS): Adapters - Flex Fuel | Racetronix Ethanol content sensor are originally designed to be on the feed line. These bypass blocks are meant to be ran in the feed line and not return. The continental ethanol content sensors have a 3/8" ID and not 5/16". This is why they are ran on the return line directly in conjunction with a low threshold sampling value VS in the feed with one of these blocks.    Haha we think alike, I used both original feed/return for 8AN feed, and one of the Hicas lines as a 6AN return. I also capped off and left the other Hicas line as a spare. 
    • Interesting, I haven't read about the issue with oil getting into the speedo in the cluster before. I'll have to take more notice with mine. The speedo on my R32's when I've run factory diff and tyre size have never been accurate as far as I can remember. The non Type-M GTS-t did come with 15" 5 stud wheels and smaller brakes, but that's less than 5% of them.
    • Good to hear the condenser you picked up off my brother worked all good. Do you think there could be an issue with your AC compressor itself or the clutch on it then? I don't know a lot about them so I can't really help but keen to hear what it ends up being. Keep the build thread going man, it's nice to look back on over time.
    • This is a story of my life things, I learned eventually (thanks to someone calling me out) that my enthusiasm for discussing and sharing ideas that it came across as arrogance and I'm like... WTF?!    One thing I'm pretty sure I justifiably pride myself on is knowing that everyone will have things they can teach you, and you're always going to find out that something you think you know turns out wrong - you just don't know what it is until you get there.   Just the bursting enthusiasm that comes with ADHD when you hit something that gives you dopamine dumps can come across like you think everyone else is wrong or don't matter. But yeah, I'm a software engineer by trade and also do tuning in weekends and 100% have long had a reputation for  quickly making connections when resolving problems or forming solutions that I've sometimes had to take people form a long walk from start to end to explain how I ended up where I did when it's seemed "too simple" when I've stated my initial case, and had the "WTF" type reaction when they've realised how much was actually considered haha.   My reward is that I get all the curly problems thrown at me.
×
×
  • Create New...