Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for a while now iv read and been told that a 10/40 grade of oil was the right stuff to use so today i changed from castrol edge 10/60 to royal purple 10/40 and to my shock i was told that its to thin for a forged engine so i felt like a num nut (again)

so how true is this?

and why?

thanks....

Edited by WARLORD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240497-what-oil-to-run-in-a-forged-engine/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Royal Purple is very good oil.. on par with the Motul. I run the RP10/40 in my forged engine no worries. As already said though, your engine builder should know what oil best suits your application.

Royal Purple is very good oil.. on par with the Motul. I run the RP10/40 in my forged engine no worries. As already said though, your engine builder should know what oil best suits your application.

yer but ...... !!!!!!!!! i think rp is much better than castrol and the only thing i got from him was watch the oil temp and it might burn oil ,that's it

Edited by WARLORD

i now run 25/60 penrite bearings are in alot better condition once stripped down rather than a thinner oil i was previously using

but this car doesnt see street duties id say 10-60 would be better for more start / stop driving

thats supposed to go in your gearbox. lol

all forged engines are different. it depends on your clearances. in the old days piston to bore clearance was 6thou. now a good quality forged piston like a CP for example can be clearanced as close as 2thou.

big end and main clearances are similar, some set them a little larger for high revving engines which is the reason a lot of skylines pick them up as they are to tight. the brand does not matter, as long as it is a quality oil. its the grade thats important. and the viscosity should be a 5w40, 10w40, 5w50, on a recently built engine. or similar. running an engine in is also important as some builders and camshaft manufacturers reccommend that it is done with a mineral oil only.

i run Repsol engine oils in all my engines, and plan on running 5w40 Comp in my Ls1 even though the piston to bore is a little excessive. if it uses oil it means its getting everywhere it is needed.

i now run 25/60 penrite bearings are in alot better condition once stripped down rather than a thinner oil i was previously using

but this car doesnt see street duties id say 10-60 would be better for more start / stop driving

i agree, if the builder has told you to run a 10w60, thats what you use.

Well thats what you put in there then. He built it, he knows tolerances etc, he dictates the rules.

Forum can offer little

/thread :(

15w50

This oil is awesome. I have never spun shit when using it.

You will pay for it though.. just a little small extra insurance policy IMHO.

DO NOT RUN IN YOUR ENGINE ON THIS OIL.

It wont run in :(

which is 10/40

right

MOTUL 300v chrono is the only oil you should be running.

agreed. I love it. true 100% synthetic ester. ie the real deal. I even run it in the lowly silvia. :(

edit: just one point 300V chrono is 10W40. the 15W50 you are talking about must be 300V 'competition' or someting. all the 300Vs are the same quality of oil, just different viscosity.

my engine has done 15k on 10/60 so ill give it a go the engine sounds quieter now with 10/40.. i change oil every 4k so ill see .

thanks for the input guys nice to see friendlier comments this time .

Well thats what you put in there then. He built it, he knows tolerances etc, he dictates the rules.

Forum can offer little

/thread :O

the forum has offed some good info,that' :( s what its all about right.

what he is saying that sometimes people give opinions on topics they have no idea about, and have no liabillity at the end of the day if they give you a bum steer.

the forum has offed some good info,that' :( s what its all about right.
what he is saying that sometimes people give opinions on topics they have no idea about, and have no liabillity at the end of the day if they give you a bum steer.

Croydon used to insist i run 20/60 Motul 300V Le Mans...probably cause they stocked it and it cost me $300 to do an oil change with it.

Croydon used to insist i run 20/60 Motul 300V Le Mans...probably cause they stocked it and it cost me $300 to do an oil change with it.

that's cheap............not

what do you use dirtgarage

o and by the way does anyone have a job these days so many people on this morning.

Edited by WARLORD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have two German Shepherds that like to bite things that are in places they shouldn't be. Plus the cars/batteries on chargers are inside a locked garage, inside that fully fenced and locked yard. If you can get the car out, you can have it, as I'll be having one hell of a laugh at your expense.
    • Looks like they changed the wording in the manual for the new model. I have a different model. Mine is CC1206. Not CC1206-XLI. Mine doesn't support lithium at all. I can't find the manual for my model online and they don't list the model on the Century website anymore either. In my manual it says what I quoted and that they recommend to not leave it on 🤷‍♂️ Sounds like you'd be fine with this one now.
    • Thanks for actually answering every single point! I noticed the date only after posting. And yes, looks like things have changed a little bit since then. FWIW, looks like Government Gazette No 253 has the current emissions test procedure. Sounds pretty reasonable altogether. One thing I learned from this is that it's possible to check whether a catalyst does any work by measuring the temperature. Catalyst outlet temp is at least 40°C higher than inlet temps if there is a reaction happening. I'd be curious to check this on mine but don't have a thermometer. Because purely going by smell it can't be doing much. Personally I'd be okay to pay for the test as long as it's within reason. My main concern would be to lose my rego because it definitely wouldn't pass the test in its current state. I'll see if I can do a bit more digging and see what's involved in doing this nowadays.   To be fair I don't think it's stopping many people from doing the modifications anyway. It just puts a barrier up to doing things right  
    • Uhhh if anyone sees this - I bought a BRZ years ago, on my fulls soon so back on the market for the R34!
    • Research research research, and tackle the important things first, like the rust, because as a wise old hippie and some crazy horses once said "rust never sleeps" Nothing good comes easy and fast, and nothing that comes easy and fast is typically good
×
×
  • Create New...