What Oil To Run In A Forged Engine

[Johnny]

Full synthetic on bottles today dosent mean 'full synthetic' needs to say 100% synthetic

motul chrono 300v is a grade 5 oil = aircraft or jet grade

motul 8100 excess is blended grade 5 and 4 = best value for money

something like castrol edge is grade 3 and u pay way to much for it.

I switched from 300v = bout 150bux to 8100x-cess which is 80bux; considering i do an oil change every 2000kms i make quite a saving lolz.

[Guilt-Toy]

interesting.. i was thinking about running 8100 in my car when i run the car in low power mode, but low power is 340rwkw so maybe i should wait till i put a lower wg spring in.

Full synthetic on bottles today dosent mean 'full synthetic' needs to say 100% synthetic

motul chrono 300v is a grade 5 oil = aircraft or jet grade

motul 8100 excess is blended grade 5 and 4 = best value for money

something like castrol edge is grade 3 and u pay way to much for it.

I switched from 300v = bout 150bux to 8100x-cess which is 80bux; considering i do an oil change every 2000kms i make quite a saving lolz.

[Johnny]

interesting.. i was thinking about running 8100 in my car when i run the car in low power mode, but low power is 340rwkw so maybe i should wait till i put a lower wg spring in.

Kinda sucks huh mate that companies can write 'full synthetic' and it dosent even need to be; just a blend.

The info on the grades are correct though:

grade 1 - mineral

grade 2 - blended 'fake' sythetic with mineral (castrol magnatec fits in here)

grade 3 - better quality synthetic ( castrol edge and mobil1)

grade 4 - higher quality

grade V - jet grade 100%ester ( 300v and redline oils fit in here)

Thats why i think 8100 is fantastic cos its blended highest grades which is still better than something like castrol edge.

its 5w40 as well; 10w40 is a bit too thick for an rb26 with stockish compression.

[juggernaut1]

In terms of which viscosity of oil to use I think it will be a case of trial and error as this will depend on your bearing clearances, and will vary from engine to engine and will also depend on your oil pump flow and pressure.

My case in point.....I used Mobil 1 5/50 in my stock sr20. Oil pressure is fine and doesn't drop off at idle even after 30 laps around Barbagello. My brothers LS2 we tried the same Mobil 1 and it had shocking oil pressure at idle after giving it a hard time. Switch it to Castrol Edge 10/60 and oil pressure is perfect. Generally, there is not much variance in max oil pressure (probably due to the oil pressure relief valve) but it is at idle after giving the car a hard time when the viscosity is noticeable and oil pressure may become marginal.

Incidently, I just pulled down my SR with 40,000 klms which has done 100's of laps around Barbagello and the bearings were still like brand new using Mobil 1. I was going to try Motul 300v in my new build (after run in) but I am now considering staying with Mobil 1 given the excellent condition of the bearings given the flogging it has had.

Edited October 17, 2008 by juggernaut1

[brembogtr]

i have just rebuilt my engine with acl 87mm pistons, tomei cams etc

what first oil should i put threw the motor? motul 10w40 synthetic? is this right?

[nfi]

Royal Purple is very good oil.. on par with the Motul. I run the RP10/40 in my forged engine no worries. As already said though, your engine builder should know what oil best suits your application.

Actually the Royal purple is a great oil but more on par with motul 8100. 300v is a clear step up in terms of ester content. Hence it is a lot more expensive.

i have just rebuilt my engine with acl 87mm pistons, tomei cams etc

what first oil should i put threw the motor? motul 10w40 synthetic? is this right?

Woah definitely not... Check with your engine builder but chances are he is going to tell you to run a mineral oil. Reason being is that he wants the rings to bed in. This won't happen very well with a fully synthetic oil and the engine will burn oil badly for the rest of its life.

Edited October 17, 2008 by nfi

[discopotato03]

A friend of mine who's spent a lot of his life as a mechanic working on bikes has tainted views on Motul oil , he does agree that the highest spec synthetic is good but wouldn't touch any of the rest of their range .

He mentioned that they market aggressively and sell on price . Read into that what you like .

His thoughts on synthetic oil pretty much start and end with Mobil 1 and in the case of hard worked bike engines he suggests Mobil 1 Racing 4T 15W50 . He mentioned that HRT uses it and at times they used to snag supplies of this oil going to bike shops who ordered it . You find it in 1 and 4 litre bottles which is a pain but some bike shops get it in 205L drums .

Whatever you use should be based on clearances and temperature range IMO .

A .

[FineLine]

There are three oils i have used over the years that I wouuld not hesitate to use again. Motul chrono 300v. Redline, And Royal Purple. All have proven to offer good protection in extreme situations such as track, drag etc.

I have no particular favorite, rather more a case of what is available at the time.

They are all 100% synthetic and on teardown inspections have all performed admirably.

[rev210]

I have used castrol 10/60 for a long time with no issue with a variety of engines. For something thats going to get it's neck wringed the oil stands up to it very well.

[Johnny]

Some mechanics are total clueless asscracks if you ask me.

The head mechanic at landrover told me that the oil they use in my mothers discovery is castrol magnatech and costs 200dollars for 5 litres to which i replied "magnatec is only about 30dollars"

he replied "oh its renamed, its actually called castrol edge" (hmmm still only 70bux at autobarn)

Majority of mechanics know dick when it comes to......well 'anything'

Stealership!!!!!!!

[WARLORD]

Some mechanics are total clueless asscracks if you ask me.

The head mechanic at landrover told me that the oil they use in my mothers discovery is castrol magnatech and costs 200dollars for 5 litres to which i replied "magnatec is only about 30dollars"

he replied "oh its renamed, its actually called castrol edge" (hmmm still only 70bux at autobarn)

Majority of mechanics know dick when it comes to......well 'anything'

Stealership!!!!!!!

lol

what i have noticed from the change engine is quieter ,oil temp down, oil presser down ,and after a dyno day today castrol made 304kw & R/P 309kw so i don't think that's to bad but i will try a 15/50 next.

Edited October 18, 2008 by WARLORD

[Johnny]

lol

what i have noticed from the change engine is quieter ,oil temp down, oil presser down ,and after a dyno day today castrol made 304kw & R/P 309kw so i don't think that's to bad but i will try a 15/50 next.

15 cold weight is waaaaaay to thick for the turbo; in past i tried to run it and on coldstart you can hear a metal grinding in the turbo.

definitely no thicker than 10; actually make that 5w40-60

[l0WRB]

just a quick question?

for example 15w50

does it run 50w when cold and 15w when hot? or vice versa?

im running the 5w30 castrol edge stuff and my oil pressure is horrible and its only 1200kms old.

use to just run HPR10 and oil pressure was fine.

Edited October 18, 2008 by l0WRB

[__PhaseShiftDown]

15w is for cold and 50w is when hot.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

I wouldn't use 5w30 for an old motor. 10w40 is pretty much a safe area.

[2rismo]

Some mechanics are total clueless asscracks if you ask me.

The head mechanic at landrover told me that the oil they use in my mothers discovery is castrol magnatech and costs 200dollars for 5 litres to which i replied "magnatec is only about 30dollars"

he replied "oh its renamed, its actually called castrol edge" (hmmm still only 70bux at autobarn)

Majority of mechanics know dick when it comes to......well 'anything'

Stealership!!!!!!!

You mean dealership mechanics right?

[__PhaseShiftDown]

Kinda sucks huh mate that companies can write 'full synthetic' and it dosent even need to be; just a blend.

The info on the grades are correct though:

grade 1 - mineral

grade 2 - blended 'fake' sythetic with mineral (castrol magnatec fits in here)

grade 3 - better quality synthetic ( castrol edge and mobil1)

grade 4 - higher quality

grade V - jet grade 100%ester ( 300v and redline oils fit in here)

Thats why i think 8100 is fantastic cos its blended highest grades which is still better than something like castrol edge.

its 5w40 as well; 10w40 is a bit too thick for an rb26 with stockish compression.

So the base stock of 300v is ester (or somwhat a variation of it)? From what I've read, ester is only used as an additive for blend with the base stock, so is the base stock of 300v is still PAOs (Polyalphaolefins)?

[RB30-POWER]

just run mobil 1 0w-40.

a genuine full synthetic, meets bmw LL spec for 25k oil changes.

and is the oil specifically specified and used by the R35 GTR, so say no more.

$90 for 5L seems to be the RRP.

[__PhaseShiftDown]

royal purple and motul 300v is around that price as well.

I think i'll stick with royal purple. Could someone confirm how long does 300v needs to be changed? I heard it dosen't last as long since its a race oil.

BTW, sticking to the topic title. I believe Royal Purple makes a run in oil (on the US website). Might be a bit hard to get it in Australia.

Edited October 19, 2008 by __PhaseShiftDown

[RB30-POWER]

royal purple isn't a full synthetic.

still an ok oil to use but as long as you don't go trying to get extended milage out of it..

[Russco]

Could someone confirm how long does 300v needs to be changed? I heard it dosen't last as long since its a race oil.

Compared to Castrol Edge 10-60 I found I got 6 months out of the 300v instead of 3 months with the Castrol. This was based on periodic oil anaylsis tests, the Motul retained its viscosity better in my engine. I also get no cold start noises from the Motul unlike the Castrol.

Johnny - I disagree 15w is too thick for a turbo, if you heard metal grinding on the turbo like you posted I'd say it';s a fair chance you had stuffed turbo bearings that would not be caused by the weight of the oil (cheap oil maybe?). I have run a 300V 15W-50 thru my pair of HKS 2530s for 5 years and they are both in perfect working order.