Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was at bunnings today and noticed a random rotating orbital buffer on the specials bundle for 40 bucks. I wouldnt have thought twice cause it was bunnings except this had that random rotation thingy thats supposed to be good for buffing. Has anyone else seen it and will it do a good job at buffing the car? lol

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240515-buffer-at-bunnings/
Share on other sites

imo you get what you pay for with buffs. i bought a cheap buff for $150 and it does alright but takes longer to buff a car than a good one. we have a rupes buff at work they are about 600ish and is very nice to use.

its kind of hard to describe but if you used my $150 buff, then tried the $600 one we use at work you would see what i mean

the pricier one its a lot smoother, better defined speed settings, plenty of low down torqiness. while my cheaper one tends to bog down at low speeds, and lacks that torque feel.

i bought a cheapy with the random rotation so kind of rotates of centre... worked well on my black car supposivly get less lines, streaks buff marks... obviously the cheaper ones dont have the power but for a light buff they do the job!

Edited by rgr34

The cheap one could be ok. I can't say I've used one but you shouldn't need too much torque as such. You aren't trying to remove the paint imperfections with pure grunt, that's what the polishing products are for. As far as I know the whole point of the random rotating head is so that it DOESN'T heat up the paint. The problem with rotary buffers (angle grinders) is that they just turn and don't oscillate. This heats up the paint quicker and is why you have to be very careful with them. The random orbitals are much safer.

Here are some examples of holograms left buy a rotary buffer. Just above the door handle you can see the circlular patterns. These are common where people don't really know what they're doing with a rotary buffer. Some waxes can hide these.

post-13456-1224228660_thumb.jpg post-13456-1224228699_thumb.jpg

When polishing you want to do it under cover so the paint work isn't hot. You generally won't see professional detailers outside, if they are then they'll try to be in the shade. As long as you use the right pad and polish choice you should be fine.

If anyone's worried about harming their cars paint because they're inexperienced then get a cheap crappy panel from a wreckers and have a go on that. You can then practice all of the claying, polishing and waxing you like. Once you're happy you could wash it with dish washing detergent and rub a kitchen scourer over it and start again.

If you do get the buffer then try and get a seperate pad for the polish and wax. There could be a microfiber bonnet for the wax already though?

Good Luck.

Edited by Fry_33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting....can't say I've ever checked it, have always just changed it in the off season as practice
    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...