Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ing if i well after pulling my battery out for a charge i notices its only 370 CCA battery,

it normally takes 3/4 seconds to start, i am wondering if i need a bigger battery

x0x0x

Is that 3/4's of a second to start or 3 - 4 seconds to start?

I run an 'AllRounder' from Battery World in Fyshwick. Cheaper and has more punch than the typical Yellow Tops. It takes around 1/2 a second to 3/4 of a second to crank the engine over. The CCA on it I think is around 600CCA with a higher AH rating than the yellow tops. AllRounder Battery

Is that 3/4's of a second to start or 3 - 4 seconds to start?

I run an 'AllRounder' from Battery World in Fyshwick. Cheaper and has more punch than the typical Yellow Tops. It takes around 1/2 a second to 3/4 of a second to crank the engine over. The CCA on it I think is around 600CCA with a higher AH rating than the yellow tops. AllRounder Battery

cheers mate,

i ment 3 to 4 seconds,

I see the slightly longer start as a good thing. It gives the engine a little extra time to build oil pressure before being under full load... not a biggy for a standard engine, but it all helps.

Whatever Optima Yellowtop is. It's a deep cycle battery, meaning the charge level can drop to pretty darn low levels (ie won't crank at all) and still be recharged to normal :D Might come in handy Alex!

Whatever Optima Yellowtop is. It's a deep cycle battery, meaning the charge level can drop to pretty darn low levels (ie won't crank at all) and still be recharged to normal ;) Might come in handy Alex!

Same goes for the AllRounder I posted about Ben.

I had the Yellow Top in the Subie.. Excellent battery, but not for the price.. I got the AllRounder for half the price and it has a longer deep cycle charge.

(P.S - I just realised I said Battery World, but it is suppose to be "The Battery Factory")

Edited by sfrizza

I had a 440cca battery and it took maybe 2 seconds to start the motor, once that battery started to die (Scott - remember us roll starting my car in Kingston on Anzac day ;)) I chucked in a Supercharger brand 660cca battery. The fellow at battery world said it's the same cold cranking amps as you get in a Landcruiser.

One tap of the key and she fires first time every time, it's a good feeling lol :)

I can't even tell what mine is.... It's blue with yellow bits on top. It died one day and the NRMA told me it was f*ked and I really had to get to work so the NRMA dude in the battery van came along and changed it for me.

*shrugs* it works ;)

I had a 440cca battery and it took maybe 2 seconds to start the motor, once that battery started to die (Scott - remember us roll starting my car in Kingston on Anzac day :)) I chucked in a Supercharger brand 660cca battery. The fellow at battery world said it's the same cold cranking amps as you get in a Landcruiser.

One tap of the key and she fires first time every time, it's a good feeling lol :)

Yes i do.

Since running a oil cooler, i am paranoid about building pressure, so ignore me. :P

660cca is uber, will do the job fo shiz

yeh but i have that on my Landcruiser just to power accessories and a winch, must be some serious stereo to need as much battery power as that. :D

Mostly hidden. Some nice quality speakers in the rear and front doors with some Xcellent tweaters.

Work done by AudioTech Tuggers.

Put them in the GTS-T and then moved em into the GTR.

Edited by Sinista32
holy crap what size subs are they? my 12 doesn't take up anywhere near that much space

Could be the angle of the Photo's and the fibreglass sub enclosures. I cant fit much in the boot :P

2 x 12.5" Bostons = Heaps of DOOF DOOF (bass).

I dont turn it up till on the open road or at SAU Christmas party's at the Cotter. Sometimes it annoys me to hear it from cars round populated areas like the malls or local shops (fully sic mate!). I just think what a wank. A nice Skyline will get noticed anyway.

Most of the sound is restricted to the inside due to soundproofing from firewall to boot.

i went with a big 600cca cheap bosch and it works great

but 1100cca? thats nuts. what do you need that for? starting on a cold morning while doing a bit of arc welding at the same time?

hehehe I don't do things by halves :P

Errr - 2 Battery's. 1 to crank and the other to keep the stereo cranked.

I used to do that, to set it up right (and legally) there's a lot of shit involved.

Mostly hidden. Some nice quality speakers in the rear and front doors with some Xcellent tweaters.

Work done by AudioTech Tuggers.

Put them in the GTS-T and then moved em into the GTR.

Ooooh nice...

This is why I need the power :( and you can see that even though they call them a 'twelve inch sub' they obviously don't fit in a 12 inch hole :)

img001080349234tq7.jpg

picture2390281841qg6.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How f**ked am i? what would happen if i leave the magnet inside there? 
    • I'll update you guys when i get home from work, im going to try to fish it out.  I just realized that i can't even drop the oil pan. The whole front diff and axles are connected to the oil pan... is it even possible to drop the oil pan without taking out the motor?  
    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
×
×
  • Create New...