Car Tuned Today And Not To Happy

[super_s13]

A PFC doesnt require any wires!!!!!!!!!!

unbolt old ECU, bolt in new ECU... i fail to see how 'messy' stock wiring is causing a problem... you dont need to change anything.

Why he would want to butcher it up, and put in something thats inferior... is beyond me

EDIT: your also running a FPR on a stock ECU setup... why?

stock FPR = fine

If you read my post the car came with a Malpassi FPR that was leaking. I could not source a stock one and there will be more mods to come. There for to replace the shitty leaking one i get a better one. Seems normal to me to upgrade then to put a stock one on that costs money to buy then getting another one when mods come. Logical yes. The microtech again if you read my post you will see that he wants to rewire the whole engine bay. I am not stupid i know the Power FC is plug and play but he wants a wire in so remove any old shit wiring. Again kinda logical.

I have been told by several people that power FC will be cheaper and better but i will talk to my tuner again and see how it goes.

Gota say here that stock wiring over many years of being butchered up with all sorts of shit spliced into it can be messy and can cause problems so I can see why the tuner wants to start from scratch here.

Ive got a headache of a wiring mess and one of my brand new o2 sensors just isn't reading at all. You can see all sorts of splicing has been done on the wiring harness

Thanks dude bout tome someone understood where i was coming from. It has been butchered to shit with different things and wiring put in then half taken out tis bloody ugly.

[monga]

If thats legit power I wouldnt be complaining. 185KW with minor mods.

[aRiella34]

Def go for PowerFC, best money i spent, it stopped the 5g cuttout and the popping!

[R31Nismoid]

Gota say here that stock wiring over many years of being butchered up with all sorts of shit spliced into it can be messy and can cause problems so I can see why the tuner wants to start from scratch here.

Ive got a headache of a wiring mess and one of my brand new o2 sensors just isn't reading at all. You can see all sorts of splicing has been done on the wiring harness

Maybe your car was butchered beyond belief, even with some splicing, its not a major repair job.

30mins with solder and some shrink gear and you can fix most of that kind of rubbish.

But then to go a hybrid wire up of something aftermarket, all your doing is further creating a mess.

[R31Nismoid]

If you read my post the car came with a Malpassi FPR that was leaking. I could not source a stock one and there will be more mods to come. There for to replace the shitty leaking one i get a better one. Seems normal to me to upgrade then to put a stock one on that costs money to buy then getting another one when mods come. Logical yes.

Logic i still say no too... Riddle me this...

You bring in another part not from factory, with it, that brings another element of questionable reliability.

Each time you change something from tired and proved (stock) you bring a chance of problems as you've had with the previous one, regardless of wether it comes/doesnt/mystically appears.

A stock fuel reg is fine even in 400rwkw applications, more than that even if you really wanna start getting into it.

I find it very hard to believe a stock reg couldnt be found. Nissan can get you anything you want and IIRC the price on one isnt bad at all, 1/2 the price of anything else.

[grem]

yeah im running a lt12s on the 25 in my cefiro and it is a pig when its cold. idles like ass. sometimes within the first minute it just stalls on its own or if i touch the throttle too heavily. it hates cold starts and from what ive picked up, low voltage too. runs perfect in my opinion when its warm though.

and with similar mods to you but ignition coils that were totally rooted i only made 190kw with 12psi. only found out they were stuffed once the tuner increased the boost. booked in again in 2 weeks.

if i hadnt bought the car with a microtech fitted already i'd have gone for a pfc.

[ash_29]

Just out of curiosity why didn't anyone reccomend a Nistune on the stock ECU?

[116.hks]

the first thing i did when i started modifying to my ride, was to get rid of the engine harness quick smart. i'm an auto elect, so it's easy for me to say replace the harness, that i know but with age of the nissan harnesses i know what problems can happen. i believe that if the harness is shabby and you have the coin replace it. as for the microtech, i wouldn't waste my time. ( i'll probably get shot saying that ) there are plenty of other choices out there. pick one that your tuner is able to tune ( not microtech.). i've gone through two ecu changes. i started of with a haltech e6x, which was nothing but problems from the word go. (advised to my old tuner). i'm now running a wolf v500 and i'm loving the way the car drives. it drives like it has a standard ecu. i have alot of bolt on upgrades and a fresh 25 and made a comfortable 423hp. i understand what everyone is saying bout the pfc and i think it is one the best plug in computers around, but you still run the risk of the factory harness causing grief. thats just my opinion.

[super_s13]

OK so you have all stated that Microtech are shit. But really only one has said why and that is that its shit on cold start up. As stated i am in Darwin so cold is not an issue.

But if your all saying to go Power FC can you at least let me know why other that the microtech is shit. I need some things that power fc can do that microtech cant do.

I can ask him to replace the whole loom with a newer condition stocko one and then plug a power fc in. But i will look like a cock going to him with an arguement when i have no idea what to say.

Oh the other thing i read was that it does not have a knock sensor is this true.

And to the FPR question. I am in Darwin FFS i got the genuine sard item brand new for 150 that was cheap hence why i brought it. I dont know if i needed it but when CRD tell me to get one and most the guys in the dyno results thread have them they cant be bad. But regardless of that i got it now and i am not going to take it out and replace it.

I need answers which i have. most have said it is the ECU one even pin pointed and said that it is cos the stock ecu has a fit with higher than stock boost. So we have established it has to go. But if my tuner want to put a Microtech on it for reason be known to himself and there is not another tuner up here i would go to as this guy has proved himself with streetable 600+ bhp skylines, stageas, GTR's, and some mean evos and s14's he is my choice. I just need some facts to go to him with to change his mind.

[R31Nismoid]

Anyone can tune for power. It doesnt prove much other than he knows WOT.

Its streetability, fuel consumption and AFR control that are the key points where a microtech lacks severly. Thats what makes a decent tuner. A car thats nice to drive, good to idle, starts first turn of the key, and so on

And no, no knock sensor. Most ECU's dont have this feature as they dont map the RB25 sensor output

[Adriano]

Personally i would price a new loom from nissan, or a newer loom, and fit a nistune board to the stock ecu($250 fitted). Will dirve better than a microtech, as its a modified stock ecu, and uses an AFM. As for cold start not being an issue in Darwin, the motor is still cold when you start it.

[Public Enemy]

new looms can be brought from Nissan, i replaced all of mine but they're not exactly cheap. Around 3k to do the lot.

The Power FC will give you knock warning, thats reason enough to use it over the microtech. This would be even more important up in Darwin, with the high humid air temps your intake temps are gonna be higher and your intercooler less effective. Also you may be more prone to bad batches of fuel considering the distances it has to travel and perhaps a lesser turn over of supplies. If you get a bad batch of fuel the power FC will tell you soon enough with knock warning flashes on the dash and knock levels accessable through the hand controller.

[116.hks]

going back to your original problem, with fuel pressure issues in the sense of being to rich and lean, i can't see the big drama with controlling a/f mixtures. you're running close to stock boost with an neo turbo, ( correct me if i'm wrong, i thought there was not much difference between neo and standard 25 turbos except for 1 is ball bearing. could be wrong though) sard frp and pump. fuel pressure is still regulated and the ms on the injectors have not change from the factory tune, so i don't understand why he can't control a/f, cause the vehicle is stock. the injectors will only inject what it needs at that point and time whether it be at idle or full throttle. check to make sure that fuel pressures don't exceed factory specs. (most vehicles are set at 30 psi) i'd be checking that before i worry bout ecu's. you could have incorrect spray patterns from the injectors as well that could be flooding the engine. tell ya tuner to check the basics before it ends up costing you an arm and leg.

[super_s13]

Personally i would price a new loom from nissan, or a newer loom, and fit a nistune board to the stock ecu($250 fitted). Will dirve better than a microtech, as its a modified stock ecu, and uses an AFM. As for cold start not being an issue in Darwin, the motor is still cold when you start it.

I priced a chipped ECU from Dr drift an it was almost 1350 to chip and tune it. Noone up here does nistune so i would need dr drift to do it and why would you pay 1350 when i can pay 1700 fitted and tuned from a power FC. I might get another loom and talk to him bout the power FC

going back to your original problem, with fuel pressure issues in the sense of being to rich and lean, i can't see the big drama with controlling a/f mixtures. you're running close to stock boost with an neo turbo, ( correct me if i'm wrong, i thought there was not much difference between neo and standard 25 turbos except for 1 is ball bearing. could be wrong though) sard frp and pump. fuel pressure is still regulated and the ms on the injectors have not change from the factory tune, so i don't understand why he can't control a/f, cause the vehicle is stock. the injectors will only inject what it needs at that point and time whether it be at idle or full throttle. check to make sure that fuel pressures don't exceed factory specs. (most vehicles are set at 30 psi) i'd be checking that before i worry bout ecu's. you could have incorrect spray patterns from the injectors as well that could be flooding the engine. tell ya tuner to check the basics before it ends up costing you an arm and leg.

Thanks for the advice mate. Will ask him what the fuel pressure was at. I think it was bout 35 not 100% on that though.

[rev210]

This is an easy one!

Remeber you have a 'Factory' ECU;

* This means you MUST set the fuel pressure and flow to factory levels in order to get the benifits of the factory mixtures for cruise and idle. Any varience will see corrosponding pain it's that simple. The is no rocket science or mystery involved in the problem.

Couple of ideas based around being budget minded;

* You have picked up a 'cheap' Sard regulator;

--- Is it the right model? It should be rising rate and of the correct ratio (they make a few types) If it is the worng type you will have issues.

* You could go a simple S-AFC at this level.

--- There is no room in the stock turbo for huge power anyway and you can sell it for close to what you paid once you are ready to go up.

* The Power FC is a people say a simple plug in.

* Wiring is NOT the problem. Save your dollars mate.

* The richness at idle and cruise ,if as bad as the tuner says, will see your car belching out black smoke as you idle and drive along. If it doesn't do this you have no worries about 'glazed bores'. If true it indicates a serious issue with the fuel pressure and I would naturally assume the fuel pump and or FPR are the culprits and the first areas to investigate. Another indication of the 'over rich' glased bore idea will be that the car will need a new set of plugs real soon. My tip here is don't waste money on irridiums/platinum plugs and stick to copper NGK's.

The Microtech isn't as good as a PowerFC. It's because the PowerFC has a completely factory approach to running all the electronic systems in the car and on the motor. It's so easy compared to a cut and custom job. It's also cheaper and there are no benifits to the extra time, hassle and money spent. Thats the summary for you and chosing it would mean you have found a new and compelling reason.

Hope that helps

[super_s13]

This is an easy one!

Remeber you have a 'Factory' ECU;

* This means you MUST set the fuel pressure and flow to factory levels in order to get the benifits of the factory mixtures for cruise and idle. Any varience will see corrosponding pain it's that simple. The is no rocket science or mystery involved in the problem.

Couple of ideas based around being budget minded;

* You have picked up a 'cheap' Sard regulator;

--- Is it the right model? It should be rising rate and of the correct ratio (they make a few types) If it is the worng type you will have issues.

* You could go a simple S-AFC at this level.

--- There is no room in the stock turbo for huge power anyway and you can sell it for close to what you paid once you are ready to go up.

* The Power FC is a people say a simple plug in.

* Wiring is NOT the problem. Save your dollars mate.

* The richness at idle and cruise ,if as bad as the tuner says, will see your car belching out black smoke as you idle and drive along. If it doesn't do this you have no worries about 'glazed bores'. If true it indicates a serious issue with the fuel pressure and I would naturally assume the fuel pump and or FPR are the culprits and the first areas to investigate. Another indication of the 'over rich' glased bore idea will be that the car will need a new set of plugs real soon. My tip here is don't waste money on irridiums/platinum plugs and stick to copper NGK's.

The Microtech isn't as good as a PowerFC. It's because the PowerFC has a completely factory approach to running all the electronic systems in the car and on the motor. It's so easy compared to a cut and custom job. It's also cheaper and there are no benifits to the extra time, hassle and money spent. Thats the summary for you and chosing it would mean you have found a new and compelling reason.

Hope that helps

Hey mate that helps alot. I do believe he raised the fuel pressure ages ago and i am not sure if it was changed back. Do you by chance know the stock fuel pressure is. As for a SAFC i will pass on that one as it is not a budget build hence why i was going the more expensive route with the Microtech. I really dont mind spending dollars as long as it is for the right reasons. The stock turbo is going for christmas i am getting a gt3076r sard 550cc injectors and the computer all at once. I have been told by CRD that i will ba able to bolt the turbo on the stock manifold the injectors are bolt in with the collars and i was getting a power FC till the tuner said microtech. But we will discuss that more when i see him next.

As for the wiring not being a problem it clearly is at the f**king thing caught fire today and melted heaps of wires near the battery... Dont know why but now has to be replaced. I guess minor hickups are going to occur when you but a r32 with a rb25det for 4 grand.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28154846@N08/?saved=1

GO to that site and have a look.....

[Dr_Drift]

I've got a few RB25 looms here that I can have pre-wired as plug in looms for an RB25 into an R32, Geoff from Balistic Customs is really doing some good work in the import scene up there... Sort out the factory loom and fit a power FC if you can find a reasonably priced one. As for the remaps, Peckys has Nistune which can work with the remapped RB25 ECU with great results...

On the other hand if you completely trust Daves (I think that's who you're referring too?) work, and feel a new custom loom with Microtech will work for you, then ask him to show you another RB running standalone Microtech, and see how the cold starts and drivability are... If you're happy with an example of his work, and he guarantees he can replicate it with a microtech in your car then that may be a good option.

Also remember other costs with sorting it out, eg: you'll need a Z32 AFM upgrade for either a remap or PFC which will add to the expense, and if you want a hand controller with the microtech that'll be extra..

just my 2c

Sam.

[super_s13]

Cheers for the reply Sam. Yeah it is Dave i am talking about. He is having trouble with the Af ratio so has said to go a computer. I will be talkin bout doing another loom and then pluging in a PFC. How much would you charge for the loom pre done. Cheers.

[Dr_Drift]

Drop me an e-mail see what we can work out...

I'll be up there soon too

[super_s13]

Well got the microtech in and yes i did go against what most on here said but i trusted the tuner. I must say i can not be happier with the car. I have made 206.3rwkw on the same boost and the car runs perfect on both cold startup and WOT once warm. Feels great.

Lesson learnt that there is many experts out there but when it comes to the crunch you have to trust your tuner. I did this and have no regrets.