Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for about a month my oil pressure has been under 4 on the oil pressure gage. Previous to this it was always just above the 4. This is during normal driving. At idol it is almost hitting the bottom of the gage. I have checked the levels, and I only had the oil and filter changed two months ago (mobile 1 ). I have booked her in for a service this week, but after a recent bad and very expensive experience, I want opinions from you guys first, before the mechanic gives me his version.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24058-low-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

my oil pressure dropped from what used to be half mark warmed up to 1/4 mark idle after changing to lighter castrol formula r 5-40w. i figure its just cause the oil is lighter so pressure is different. under load i think it goes up to the half mark. the old oil that was in it must have been thick as it never seemed to move even when it was on load. does this sound right?? can anyone shed some light??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24058-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-515509
Share on other sites

it will depend on the opil u use and the temp of the oil .

thinner oil lower pressure hot oil =lower pressure too. dont forget the oil doesnt get hot quick like the coolant it may take half hour driving to get to say 120 . u may have a crook oil sender or crook gauge . pressure is not tha important volume is as long as u have oil pressure it will be ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24058-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-516195
Share on other sites

RB oil pressure sensors/senders/gauges = dodgy. Get a good aftermarket one if you are worried. I have a Greddy oil pressure gauge - when the car has been running a while the nissan gauges cracks the poos and wont really read higher than 2 or 3. It is simply not reading accurately. I've had no problems with the Greddy unit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24058-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-516416
Share on other sites

its not just rb gauges that dont read accurate most stock gauges dont . dont forget most cars dont have any at all just a warning light that goes on when pressure drops to about 5 -7 psi .

the gauge is not there to tell u when u r low on oil it wont do that , driving easy it will pick up oil even if u have 1 - 2 lts in the sump . the dip stick wont show anything if it drops to 3 lts . between min and max on the dip stick its about .8 lt ( rb25det,1lt rb25de ). the gauge is there just in case ur oil pump stuffs up , if u r contantly looking at it u'll se it drop and may save ur engine , but u'll hear the bearings knock as soon as pressure drops if the sound system is not to high lol !!!in both cases the big end bearings will pick up a little ( the gauge reacts slowly ) but will be ok if u stop the engine quick . if u install a mechanical gauge ( most accurate ) they all use plastic tubes these days the plastic tube can come out when the oil gets very hot , u loose oil and bingo the end of ur engine .

if u r worried have the pressure checked and if u want install a aftermarket gauge but remember its only a guide and u dont need huge pressures as long as the volume is there u r fine .

standard rb 25det pressure is : idling ( 650 rpm )1 kg/cm2, 2000 rpm 3.5 and 6000 5.6 .thats when oil is hot , if u dont have a temp oil gauge after normal driving for about half an hour , and using normal spec oil , thinner oil =lower pr thicker oil =higher .

i dont know at what pressure the release valve will open but on my gtr it opens at about 6kg/cm2 , i think the rb25det opens a little higher .

the rb 26 pressure at 6000 is lower as well 4.6 and 3 at 2000 which goes to show u that u dont need high pressure, volume is more important .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24058-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-516561
Share on other sites

by the time u see the coolant gauge go up cause u got no oil pressure ur engine has probably spun all the big ends and the crank is ready for scrap . u will hear the big ends knock as soon as pressure drops . when ur big ends have a big clearence ( worn say 1-2 thousants ) when u first start the engine u'll hear the big end bearings a little for a few seconds another reason u dont rev the eng when u first start . when u do an oil change u may notice the same thing if u dont fill the oil filter with oil before u put on ( imposible in the skyline pos in some cars that the filter is upright .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24058-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-516571
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know mentally you're set on the ATS clutch but honestly I'm a big fan of the Nismo Super Coppermix Twin. It's much cheaper and in some ways I think it's a better design for a street/circuit car.
    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
×
×
  • Create New...