Fault Code 21 -

[TokyoTaxi]

Need a little assistance please..

First time I've ever seen the a warning light come on ( Check Engine ) so I hooked up the datascan and found Fault Code 21 ( 1st occurance ).

Does this usually mean Coil Packs or ......??

Car is 2000 ER34 with RB25DE NEO ( VCT )

Did search but didn't find much so help would be great.

Cheers.

[TokyoTaxi]

Anyone ??

[JamesK]

I have little experience in diag codes but doing a bit of research, is your car ODBII? I assume it is since it's post 98 however if it truly is 21 it make more sense if it was nissans earlier own diagnostics...still doing research just let me know what you do

Edit: Actually....hold on finding more information now

[JamesK]

Found this, Relevant?

http://www.d1nz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...7b17b9c3814c13f

Very useful info for ECCS-equipped cars!

*Modes & codes

Mode 1 is called the "Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitor" because it informs you about oxygen sensor activity. With the engine running and fully warmed up, the green LED should blink, going on when the sensor sends a lean signal and off when it sends a rich signal. You should see 5-10 flashes every 10 seconds. If the LED is on more than it's off, there's a lean condition, and vice versa. Sluggish blinking should make you suspect a fouled sensor.

Mode 2, the Mixture Ratio Feedback Control Monitor, lets you know whether or not the air/fuel mixture is being controlled within the proper range. If the red and green LED's flash pretty much simultaneously with the engine running, mix control is okay. If the red LED is off more often than the green one, richness is indicated. If the red is on more than its mate, think lean.

Mode 3 has the name "Self-Diagnostic," and it's more what you're used to on other vehicles because it yields fault codes, both hard and intermittent, which are communicated to you by means of the flashing of both LED's. The red one gives the first digit, and the green one the second digit. For instance, if the red flashes twice, then the green flashes once, you've got a Code 21.

Get the engine up to normal temp, preferably by driving the car for 10 minutes, then pull the codes. In the case of a no-start, crank the engine for at least two seconds. If you see 55, all is well (in older models, 44 meant the same thing). Be sure to write down any other codes because they'll be erased when you go on to Mode 4, which means you will have lost any help on intermittents. Normally, codes are retained in memory for fifty starts.

Mode 4, called the "Switches On/Off Diagnostic Mode," checks the function of the switches that serve as inputs to the ECU, specifically those for ignition key start position, idle, and vehicle speed. For the first two, the red LED will go on or off when switch status is changed. In other words, with the ignition on, the red light should illuminate both when you step on the gas pedal and when you turn the key to start. If not, check the appropriate circuit. The vehicle speed sensor lights the green LED when you exceed 12 mph (get the drive wheels off the floor to do this in the shop, or have a helper drive while you keep your eyes on the ECU).

Mode 5 ("Real-Time") gives instantaneous trouble codes to let you know what's going on right now in four monitored circuits. Codes are flashed out just once when a malfunction is detected, then they're immediately forgotten. And the way you read them is different -- you observe the flashing of one LED or the other, the red one reporting on the crank angle sensor and the fuel pump circuits, and the green on the air flow meter and ignition signal circuits.

If the red LED pulses out a series of long flashes separated by equally long pauses, a malfunction in the crank angle sensor or its circuit's indicated. Groups of three short flashes of the red LED point to the fuel pump or its circuit. With the green LED, two medium flashes followed by a pause, then two again, and so on, should cause you to suspect the air flow meter and its related wiring. Groups of four flashes mean there's a problem with the ignition signal.

This is an extremely sensitive and very useful mode. You can wiggle wires and connectors, rap on components, and have somebody else drive the car while you watch for those fleeting indications of trouble. You'll know everything's okay if you see no flashing in five minutes of revving and idling.

ECCS fault codes..

How to check for fault codes.

The ECCS Control is found under the passenger side kick panel.

The ECU has a window on one side to view a red LED and a green LED - when checking fault codes, a red flash is worth 10, and a green flash is worth 1. So for example, the code to say that everything is functioning normally would be 5 red flashes and 5 green flashes - the code is 55.

The ECU has 5 modes of operation, for diagnostics codes, it has to be set to mode 3.

1. Make sure the screw next to the viewing window is turned clockwise.

2. Turn the ignition on

3. Both LEDs with flash once, then a pause, then a second time, then a pause, etc. etc. up to 5 times then will repeat the process. After is has flashed 3 times then turn the screw completely anti-clockwise. - this will select mode 3.

4. The LEDs will now flash codes. 55 means that everything is normal. The rest are written below.

5. When finished, turn the screw back to clockwise and the ECU will reset itself automatically.

Don't worry about the '5th cylinder misfire' and '6th cylinder misfire' or anything, the codes are the same for all Nissans.

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.

12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.

13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.

21 Ignition Signal.

22 Fuel Pump.

23 Idle Switch.

24 Throttle Valve Switch.

25 Idle Speed Control Valve.

28 Cooling Fan Circuit.

31 ECM.

32 EGR Function.

33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.

34 Knock Sensor.

35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.

36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.

37 Knock Sensor.

38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).

41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.

42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.

43 Throttle Position Sensor.

45 Injector Leak.

47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.

51 Injector Circuit.

53 Oxygen Sensor.

54 A/T Control.

55 No Malfunction.

63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.

64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.

65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.

66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.

67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.

68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.

71 Random Misfire.

72 TWC Function right hand bank.

73 TWC Function right hand bank.

76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.

77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.

82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.

84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.

85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.

86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.

87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.

91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.

94 TCC Solenoid Valve.

95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.

98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.

103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.

105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.

108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

[iseekool]

Coil packs could be on its way out change them to Splitfires. Its a common issue with R34s.

In regards to engine error codes I recommend on of these:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ec...Di-t228314.html

It will show you all the info you will ever need, I got one - money well spent IMO.

[TokyoTaxi]

Thanks for that info James. I guess through process of elimination ( per the codes ), I can narrow it down to either the coil packs or the ignition module or a wiring / connection issue.

I cleard the error message and drove the car today and the fault didn't return so I guess I'll wait and see what happens.

iseekool, yeah I have a consult cable from NewKleer and the program to interface with the car via my laptop ( which I think is the same sort of thing as the unit in that link ? )

Very cool software but it doesn't point directly to faulty components ( AFAIK ).

Will wait and see what happens, then if it returns I'll try some coil packs.

Anyway, thank for the responses guys