Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, yes i do realise there is a number of threads about idle issues which i have read through but none of them come out with a successful solution. I have an r33 series 2 rb25, the car will usually have that hunting issue where its going between 0 and 1000rpm, sometimes it settles at idle and other times it will just stall. I have cleaned out the iac valve completely, replaced the gasket on the iac valve and secured all hoses i have touched and it hasn't made any difference at all. Does anyone know what to do to fix this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240711-stalling-idle-troubles-any-ideas/
Share on other sites

disconnect battery (bolt attaches to boot frame)

pump the brake pedal a few times

reconnect battery (bolt attaches to boot frame)

start car and let idle

it should sort itself out

if it doesnt go see a mechanic

base timing etc is probably whack

should be 15det BTDC at idle

i'm still tipping vacuum leak.

there are numerous hoses that might not have been checked from the front of the plenum to the carbon canister and under the cross-over pipe. this is worth another check. apologies if you have checked every single one.

i'm still tipping vacuum leak.

there are numerous hoses that might not have been checked from the front of the plenum to the carbon canister and under the cross-over pipe. this is worth another check. apologies if you have checked every single one.

you would hear a vacume leak though.... i did with mine.....

clean afm, change plugs,clean throttle body, do you have standard bov? i recon the most important culprit is the 02 sensor..... that $70 f#&ker stuffs things up when not working,,,,,, fixed my idle prob and now gives me better fuel economy...

sure it will paul.

i have had at least 4 deteriorating hoses on my car (over the years) and i have lost count of the cars of friends with splits in various vacuum hoses that hunt at idle. immediately idling fine after replacing the hose or trimming it back.

the last time i got the car back from the panel shop they forgot to reconnect one of the hoses to the carbon canister but due to its location under the snorkel it was a job to find in the dark with a little torch.

does the vehicle have any mods firstly and does it blow black smoke from exhaust at idle. if so make sure you have not blown an intercooler pipe. also could be a faulty afm. hope this helps

its fairly stock, apart from front mount intercooler and boost controller, it doesnt blow any black smoke at idle. im going to look into checking the error codes i was given that idea by a friend.

disconnect battery (bolt attaches to boot frame)

pump the brake pedal a few times

reconnect battery (bolt attaches to boot frame)

start car and let idle

it should sort itself out

if it doesnt go see a mechanic

base timing etc is probably whack

should be 15det BTDC at idle

thanks il give that a go tomorrow. theres a place near me called rpm performance north of brisbane, so that was my last resort if i couldnt sort it out myself.

you would hear a vacume leak though.... i did with mine.....

clean afm, change plugs,clean throttle body, do you have standard bov? i recon the most important culprit is the 02 sensor..... that $70 f#&ker stuffs things up when not working,,,,,, fixed my idle prob and now gives me better fuel economy...

il give this a go tomorrow as well. the bov is stock. after i try all this if im still having problems, il look into new 02 sensor.

$20 its the 02 sensor, especially if it hasnt been changed...... diconecting it wont change a thing if its not working in the first place paulr32...... what ever it ends up to be is just general standard maintenance anyway..... alll these things should be done anyway

  • 7 months later...

PLEASE HELP!!!!!! :)

Im having the same problem with the idle fluctuating (hunting). changed plugs cleaned iac throttle aac etc etc and it hunted usually between 1500-500 just changed the coils to splitfires now it does it 1000rpm-2000rpm. it isnt consistent it is intermitent. also car will just stall when clutch has been pushed in (giving it to it or sensible driving) checked ALL Vac lines aswell. also some times it will rev to roughly (i say that coz its never on the same spot its a bitch of a thing to trace) 3500-4500 and before i changed the coils it misfired then until the boost climbed it wouldnt rev anywhere near as quick then slingshot me (very dangerous in the wet) now after the coils are changed it does the same thing but it doesnt sound like its missfiring its alot quiter but same feeling NOTE: day night rain hail or shine it will do this problem sometimes does it when the car is cold but definatly when it has warmed up. sorry for the billion words hope it makes some sense

car details:

Series 1 r33 manual gtst

RB25det

splitfire coils

standard ecu

afm looks good and clean

vac hoses checked and some replaced

standard BOV

t4 turbo (was on the car when i bought it) standard exhuast manifold

standard exhaust

also just one more thing if someone has a couple of pics of a stockish engine bay can they post them

Edited by Melbourne93R33
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't turn down the limit yet. Put a mechanical pressure gauge on the car in the same spot and go and prove it.
    • I've done a few BMS systems. Code in Canada use to force us to have any safety components outside of the PLC but with a code change back in 2018 I believe it was, we can now use safety PLC's to control everything. Sadly to your point, AB Guardlogix safety instructions for example are only available in ladder.  Machine safety is a very big thing here though, you're constantly forced to migrate to the next best thing by OSHA. I honestly prefer safety plc's, including anything from AB more then I do working with old school safety monitoring relays. PLC is only one portion of it, the rest of the electrical still has to follow to meet SIL (Mechanically linked dual contacts, bla bla)  Now tell me how to feel about safety over comm's (e.g Ethernet/IP CIP) on a unmaintained network haha
    • To your point, boolean logic. We're not only working with bools in ecu's, so it's very limiting. I wanted to setup a low WMI pressure alarm. After 1 second I want WMI line to hit 100PSI, 2 seconds 175PSI, etc. and trigger an alarm if it doesn't meet those thresholds. This would of taken me one very short line of text, but instead I had to bugger around with generic timers, conditions, etc. and so forth.
    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
×
×
  • Create New...