Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today i decided to up my boost in preparation for calder tomorrow, i was running around .9bar and at 1.0 (which it only ever flared to once) it broke down, since then i have put new plugs in and gapped them to .8mm, the old ones were at 1.1, i have a new k&n panel filter and a new 3" Xforce hi flow cat (the old one was the factory 2.5") and i have also changed to a blitz lm return piping intercooler.

The problem is today i couldnt get over .95, the highest it has been is 1.3bar when i was playing around with the duty cycle on the avcr so i know it can do the 1bar i was aiming for, in the end i took the vac line off the turbo completely and still only got a best of .95, the only way i could get it higher was to remove the panel filter and even then it only went up to 1bar, then only things i can think of is that the turbo is just running out of steam, which is odd because it has spiked past this point before or maybe the rubber pipe between the afm and turbo is sucking closed (only just thought of this whilst typing), so the question is what else should i look for that could be holding the turbo back, my set up is:

standard ecu

standard injectors

standard fuel pump

k&n panel filter

jjr one piece split dump

3" exhaust system with Xforce hi flow cat

hi flow turbo with t4 front (i believe) and vg30 rear and hks adjustable wastegate(disconnected)

avcr also disconnected

Will be heading off to calder tomorrow so if there is any easy fix (might put a bit of 3" pipe in the intake pipe in the morning) any one can think of your help would be appreciated.

Also i know a lot of ppl dont think much of them but i put a bottle of octane booster in when i filled up today, every little bit helps.

Edited by W0rp3D
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240749-what-limits-boost/
Share on other sites

a highflowed turbo should get to 18psi easy. Things to look at:

- intake pipe like you said (easy fix, brace the pipe or replace it)

- exhaust restriction (collapsed cat)

- Problem with the actuator on your wastegate. wastegate pressure is probably around 0.95bar.. so if your not getting any higher, i'd say your gate is opening when it shouldnt be. Check the AVCR settings and the actuator as well.

- exhaust restriction (collapsed cat)

- Problem with the actuator on your wastegate. wastegate pressure is probably around 0.95bar.. so if your not getting any higher, i'd say your gate is opening when it shouldnt be. Check the AVCR settings and the actuator as well.

Better not be the cat, only put it in a week ago.

Atm the waste gate is not connected, so essentially im running unlimited boost

Had a similar problem on my RX7. Check vacuum lines running to BOV if your car is running one.

Checked for vac leaks yesterday, could not find any, i will remove the bov and put a block of plate on to make sure though.

I guess i will just have to run it as isand see what happens

Atm the waste gate is not connected, so essentially im running unlimited boost

You mean the actuator isn't connected?

If the actuator isnt connected, then all thats gonna happen is the internal gate flapper will blow open

1. Causing not enough boost

2. Poor response

The job of the actuator is to control the gate flapper. If your not using it, then thats the reason you cannot increase boost past "X" as its all being vented via the gate when it needs to go via the housing.

Removing the actuator doesn't create unlimited boost. Its the opposite. Welding/wiring the gate shut creates unlimited boost... you've got it backwards.

Ash, i think he means he just remover the vac hose(boost signal) in which case it should run fairly unlimited boost. Although there is obviously a problem, my point is there is no point running anywhere near 14 psi with a stock ecu, as it will be running so rich, with no timing that it negate any power increase the added boost would create.

You mean the actuator isn't connected?

If the actuator isnt connected, then all thats gonna happen is the internal gate flapper will blow open

1. Causing not enough boost

2. Poor response

The job of the actuator is to control the gate flapper. If your not using it, then thats the reason you cannot increase boost past "X" as its all being vented via the gate when it needs to go via the housing.

Removing the actuator doesn't create unlimited boost. Its the opposite. Welding/wiring the gate shut creates unlimited boost... you've got it backwards.

Ash, i think he means he just remover the vac hose(boost signal) in which case it should run fairly unlimited boost.

That is what i meant, anyway took it for a spin this morning and all of sudden im getting 1.2bar, it was not breaking down or hesitating or any thing so i left it that way, being my first time at a calder i took it relatively easy for the first 2 runs and then on the third i got to the top of second and the revs died, changed to third and the revs died again, i back off after that and cruised across the line, did not run any more after that.

Im assuming its the rubber pipe sucking closed as there was no pinging (although it was hard to hear with the helmet on) and no breaking down or spluttering and as soon as i backed off it was fine till it hit high boost again.

Any way i will fix the rubber hose and attach the vac line to the wastegate again and prepare for the next street meet.

Here is my time slips.

post-27276-1224409148_thumb.jpg

2.5 60ft :D

you need to be around 1.9-2.0 :)

this grasshopper has much to learn master, i did all that my teachings have taught me master, my teachings have taught me that my average road tyres are not good for 60' master, this grasshopper will rectify that on the next meet master :thumbsup:

Was only really out there to get some practice and get use to the car on a track and the track, next time i will be more prepared and will do better.

Edited by W0rp3D
nah roadies shouldn't be "too" bad.

I was 2.0-1.9 with just 225/16 :P

Drop the psi a bit too helps

I have 235 18's, didnt really have much practice time, will be back there again on the 22nd of november to try again.

I would try turning the boost down to 12 psi (.8 bar) and do a run, i would bet the MPH goes up.

We will see how it goes, im hoping to get a tune by the time i go back on the 22nd of nov, also hoping to have an external gate as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...