Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A while ago i upgraded the turbos on my 32gtr to garrett 28/60`s-10 and when i ease on the throttle very slowly i get a chh, chh, chh, chh, chh coming from the turbo area, there on a stock manifold and got stock dumps, would be part of the problem?

Have checked all clamps hoses anything i can get to and nothing helps, please help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240752-garrett-turbo-upgrade-issue/
Share on other sites

Stock BOV's will help.

Trust Type R may not be releasing under low pressures. Trust sell two different springs for these BOV's. Soft one would probably work fine. I ended up with the hard one in mine and it doesnt open under 13psi or so.

Even with the stock BOV's, you aren't always going to be able to get rid of this noise. There's nothing wrong with the car.

Its the turbos causing the shuffle, compressor surge as they are making too much air as they really aren't the turbos for a 2.6ltr...

They are designed for a stroked/cam'd motor that can use the added air... -10's are too bit... Anyway...

GTR BOV's fix it to some extent as they leak @ idle, aftermarket ones will make it worse.

You've got a few options

1. Manifold "balance" pipe between the exhaust manifolds, user: GAV posted about it

2. Tune it out, it can be done with an experienced tuner, but i am unsure how one goes about it

3. Put on -5's like everyone else which are the better suited turbo

Its the turbos causing the shuffle, compressor surge as they are making too much air as they really aren't the turbos for a 2.6ltr...

They are designed for a stroked/cam'd motor that can use the added air... -10's are too bit... Anyway...

GTR BOV's fix it to some extent as they leak @ idle, aftermarket ones will make it worse.

You've got a few options

1. Manifold "balance" pipe between the exhaust manifolds, user: GAV posted about it

2. Tune it out, it can be done with an experienced tuner, but i am unsure how one goes about it

3. Put on -5's like everyone else which are the better suited turbo

Yeah definately a good option on the balance pipe but I reckon option 2 is still his best bet. I put a set of HKS 2510's on a GTR with usual supporting mods. When I say, I put on, I mean they were already on the car when we started working on it but made quite a few changes before we put them back on. Mainly head porting and cams. Injectors were your usual big mofos and we deleted the tune and started from base map again with corrections for injector sizing. It surged quite harshly on cruise but it was easily tuned out. The reason for this particular surging was it was running slightly lean on cruise. Fattened it up a tad and it's smooth as sillk now.

You are right about the -5's also but you forgot to mention they are a better turbo...not just better suited.

I sold a pair to Russel Newman back when the GIANT GTR was still taking names 2 years ago and he commented on these to me a few weeks back saying that they definately went a shit load faster on the -5's than the -10's that they fitted to it later on. His advice was to wind 'em up and let 'em go. They made approx 735hp at the wheels on those turbos. - a tad off topic though but thought I would share the fact that they are real performers and the necessity to go up to a -10 is only present if chasing 750-800hp.

when we fitted these turbos i was always goin to totally re-build the engine by puttin forged internals and all the good stuff in the head so that the turbos ran efficient and put a hks merge pipe between a new manifold.

Martin Donnon tuned my car when we fitted the turbos and he said all gtr`s get it, but i thought that cant be right, but didnt say anything knowin that he knows a hell of a lot more than me.

so its basicly the engine cant use the extra boost pressure?

No, it cant use the initial airflow. Once you get going it's fine... has nothing to do with boost really as the turbos are just 'coming on' when it'll be surging.

This is because the comp wheel is too big and pushed too much air and forces you into the surge zone.

You'd need more than internals... im talking a serious big $$ build like a stroker etc to really make use of the -10's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
    • Thanks Fella’s   to take this off topic and to elaborate a bit more. I have an rb25/30 going into a r32 GTST.. expected to make around 600-700hp. Would you?   A) R34 GTT box   B) CD00#?  I’ve seen a few posts about the CD swap and sounds fairly involved with making it fit etc but if it’s worth the work then I’ll go that way
    • Lower at the hubs. Funny I forgot to mention that part. Do this pull here I turned the camera off too soon but the graph shows a drop at the top and that was because the pipe from the turbo blew off. The tuner said we could’ve made possibly another 15 whp. He also added if I switched to ethanol we could up the boost some more as well. I was comfortable capping it at the most of 20 pounds. Turns out the turbo pipe just needed a new worm clamp. Got home replaced that then did a third gear pull from 3k to 7200 rpm and the power was great to the top. I just got an ecu mounting bracket from IEE that I need to try and get everything to fit well. It’s a PITA to get the harness and ecu fit properly behind that kick plate 
    • He means "as opposed to mechanical cable drive". Older cars (R32 for ex.) had cable drive. Later cars with essentially the same gearbox, ie R34 GT (NA RB25) used essentially the same box as the R32 GTSt, but instead of a cable drive, had an electronic speed sender plugged into the same hole in the box, running from the same little gear that would have run the cable. Some of the shittier later cars use a speed sender on the nose of the diff, or the ABS sensors.
    • Lower than engine, or lower than it should at the hubs? Either way, that is a nice power figure and I'm not surprised you say it rips now. What stopped you from turning it up any more? Injectors? Or did it just stop responding to boost?
×
×
  • Create New...