Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm regretfully selling my pride and joy. Looking for a quick sale. Dropped price to $26,000 neg.

Make: Nissan

Model: 98 R34 GTT coupe

Mileage: 58,000kms

Transmission: 5 speed man

Colour: Black

Location: Brighton, VIC

RWC supplied? yes

Price:26,000 neg

Contact: Alex, 0402858557, or PM me.

Comments / Modifications: HKS dump pipe, 3 inch exhaust, Blitz FMIC, Stock ecu has been modified, Tien coilovers with edfc, Nismo bodykit and rear wing, Nismo cluster, Defi oil pressure and boost gauges with controller, LED tail lights, BBS 18inch rims, Apexi power intake (stock airbox available), Mongoose immobilizer (Australia Standard).

Imported August 07, I'm the first owner in Australia.

Awesome car, fun to drive. Excellent condition.

post-41129-1224473848_thumb.jpg

post-41129-1224473901_thumb.jpg

post-41129-1224473940_thumb.jpg

post-41129-1224473999_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240913-black-r34-gtt-coupe-26000neg/
Share on other sites

I'm regretfully selling my pride and joy. Looking for a quick sale. $26,000 ono.

Make: Nissan

Model: 98 R34 GTT coupe

Mileage: 58,000kms

Transmission: 5 speed man

Colour: Black

Location: Brighton, VIC

RWC supplied? yes

Price:26,000 neg

Contact: Alex, 0402858557, or PM me.

Comments / Modifications: HKS dump pipe, 3 inch exhaust, Blitz FMIC, Stock ecu has been modified, Tien coilovers with edfc, Nismo bodykit and rear wing, Nismo cluster, Defi oil pressure and boost gauges with controller, LED tail lights, BBS 18inch rims, Apexi power intake (stock airbox available), Mongoose immobilizer (Australia Standard).

Imported August 07, I'm the first owner in Australia.

Awesome car, fun to drive. Excellent condition.

post-41129-1224574284_thumb.jpg

post-41129-1224574320_thumb.jpg

post-41129-1224574356_thumb.jpg

post-41129-1224574391_thumb.jpg

car looks really good mate, if i had off seen this a few months ago might have brought this instead of mine lol, looks good with the led's at the back, the stock lights start to look old i recon... good luck with ya sale

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
    • Did you find that your voltage of the battery wasn't where it's normally supposed to be? for example on my r34, it's at 14.5v when running after a few seconds, but I noticed when I had a rough start and it initially wasn't idling correctly, the voltage on my triple gauge cluster was showing lower than usual. Seems like the alternator is starting to crap itself
×
×
  • Create New...