Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sort of drop in..not that hard to fit though

Get yourself 2 x 3" hose clamps to secure the pump to the GTt cradle, cut the inlet tube to the correct length (so it doesn't kink) and secure the sock to the base of the cradle with 2 x 1" hose clamps, at the exact same angle and position as the GTt sock.

If you do it right it's very secure, and the pickup is in the same factory position so you don't get any suprises when the fuel level drops.

He explains egine power figures

I was more interested in RW figures

Could someone work this out for me?

I tried working it out and came up with a figure of approx. 366RWKS

But this doesn't seem possible

That's why I said in a perfect world.

350-375rwkw is not out of the question but they aren't all 100% at the age they are becoming. You won't know until you do a flow test at 12 V and work out exactly how much that particular pump flows. Even then it's not exactly going to be 100% accurate. The pump could be f**ked and you might run out of fuel at 250rwkw, who knows? The only way to tell for sure is to do a flow test under pressure once you have it. 2nd hand parts = hit and miss

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Coming home late at night and driving past the police is the only reason i need one haha And yeh, definitley needs a switch to quickly enable it, dont have time to be getting my phone, opening an app, waiting for it to update etc before being able to make the change
    • Because it is financially convenient for them lol. Why wouldn't they want to give you the lowest possible valuation for your car?
    • Yep. @Duncan also shannons they will rip you dry and will be probably limited on how much you can drive. Also keep in mind that you always have to have it garaged with Shannons, with enthusiasts as per their PDS you can have it 2 times per week on the driveway for example. 
    • I had a generic 4" Varex rear box on my old V8, worked a treat for sneaking home late at night, it was as quite as stock when closed The car was "fairly" loud when open as it consisted of 1" 7/8 headers to 3" catted Y pipe, to 4" single, it did have a resonator in the mid pipe and only the Varex out the back I also hard wired in a Varex dash mount switch, as the key fob thing is a pain to use when driving I wouldn't recommend giving the beans when it is closed though as it creates a large restriction in the exhaust  It also can in very handy when pulled over for "random" breath tests or just cruising past the constabulary   
    • Here is the before and after of the scraping/sanding of the IC pads on the tachometer board for the fix mentioned in this thread. And yes it worked fine after. Just a note if you change any components on the board the tach calibration can be wrong showing the wrong idle etc...only problem is once it is installed back in the cluster you can't get to it to adjust...ouch! My fix was to cut out the calibration pot (the blue one) from the board and run it with two wires to the fuse panel under the dash where I could adjust the idle calibration once everything was installed. And yes I soldered everything up again including the half soldered components either side of the IC in my photos                                
×
×
  • Create New...