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Me wish to Learn the way of the Dorift


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I have tried the driving style called "Dorift" but on both occasions I have failed... :cry: ...and crashed my beloved skyline. Please help me to discover the true sensations that I am missing from not being able to master the sideways action....

I need to know what works for you guys, not what you have heard works but what actually has worked for you.

I am not talking about 1st gear around the corner, I want 2nd gear high RPM dorift please... :x

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Well after watching you on the pan, I'd say turn your boost down so you don't get the all or nothing power delivery. It would certainly make a difference. Smooth power is good drift power...

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That was with 168rwkw now I have 206 I should be able to get 360o rather than just 180o :lol:

The pan was really different to anything I'd done before and I had no idea it would be soooo slippery, finally started to get the hang of it on the last corner of the night....lol

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Well I have taken a few corners in my car lately, even though I dont want to , I just can't help myself with all this rain around. It's Just a case of getting the revs right and not over revving. It's really a case of getting it right, and obviously trying to learn your limits. Depends if you want to do it in the wet or dry (and fry the tyres). With all the wet around at the minute, it's hard not to get a little side ways. I find that in 2nd gear, at around 50 or 60, then slowly accelerating will really lighten up the arse end, pick the angle, of the corner, turn into the corner smoothly but hard, till she swings around, then grabbing the opposite angle and balancing between the inside and outside of the corner with your wheel. But you've got to try and keep your revs from jumping too high or else you'll be in all sorts of trouble. This is just in the wet, as I don't like buying tyres :lol: But I have to say, if your looking for nice long drifts, you gotta be smooth, don't jerk the throttle or the wheel.

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Guest Fenn

look cam my first post just for you

this is how i have always done it......

depending on the power of your car you have to adjust to the angles

but as i come up to say a left hand corner i'll turn the wheel to the right and then quickly back to the left and take the corner (this gets a tail wipe going very good on hair pin corners)then it's just down to accelerator work.. then i'll start to correct early and hold it as to over correct and then just continue till the next corner (i can't do it in my skyline due to my irs and stuffed suspention but can do it in any car with a solid diff)

just that with the irs every time i go to change gear it squats and the ass just slides out anyway.

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Drift accident #1

2 weeks after trading my 13sec starlet for the R32....

Coming up to a tight left hander with a friend parked opposite I slowed right down and into first! Then as I came to the corner for my first ever drift I hit the gas and it was all good but I kept it down too long and too far and I rotated all the way round and hit one of those nasty 30cm high gutters and ended up facing the wrong wayhalf on the gutter and half off

DAMAGE

Bent lower control arm

Bend CUSCO castor rod

Bent Upper control arm

1 buckled rim

1 torn open tyre

http://www.d-u-e-l.com/cams_ride.htm for pics

Drift accident #2

3 hours after fixing my car from #1

I had just spent 2 weeks fixing my last attempt when a friend came over to tell me of an awesome drift corner that he had found over the other side of town. So off we went, I told him that I was just going to take it easy as I didn't want to damage the car again but in the heat of the moment the car took over and .....

Came around a long sweeping corner in 2nd at about 65 the back went out when the car came on boost and it was looking good till the back tyre hit the outside gutter and flicked the car back the other way, I corrected but too much and the car flicked back around and up and over the gutter, sliding down the grass foot path and into a garden. While this doesn't sound bad it wasn't till the next day when I drove back with now 2 buckled rims when I discovered that I had removed a huge tree stump with my tyre, broken the concrete edge around the garden and missed the businesses gas main by 1 meter!

No damage to photograph sorry.

See I told you I need instruction, I must admit that I prefer straight line speed to drift but I will give anything ago.

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When the car came to a stop my horn button fell out and the interior light poppe out, I sat stunned for a sec (it happens so fast) then just put my head on my steering wheel and wondered how much damage I'd done this time. More importantly, I realised that my friend in the passenger seat had trusted that I would make the right decission and NOT endanger his life without his consent, its different if he was in total agreement with me doing it but he may not have been. You never realise the consequences till it has happened.

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The shiny bits :wink: Can you tell I'm a mechanic ... *NOT* :) May bay looks dirty, the piping is dull, and I wouldn't have a clue how to get it looking like yours.

BTW, how much did that jack in the picture set you back. I want to do work on my car but don't have a clue where to start :)

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Here is a tip for everyone...some of you will know this but others will not.

I have worked on heaps of cars and the one thing I have found is that the job gets very easy with the right tools. Here is a list of tools to make the job easy.

Hydrolic jack $50

Car ramps $40 pair

Car stands $20 pair (use these when car is up for a while)

6mm-20mm socket set (JBS, Sidchrome etc) spend the bucks or its a waste of time get a couple of extensions and unni joint and half inch if possible.

Good pliers needle nose and normal

Good wire strippers

Good tape measure

Good set of philips and flat tip screw drivers

Good shifter (from REPCO with mm markings on it)

8-20mm spanners with open and ring ends

etc etc

Then buy a good tool box with draws and put it all in it.

This will all cost heaps but I can assure you that you will save nemerous times that by doing things your self.

As for the shiny bits. cover all electrical stuff with plastic bags and sealup the plug cover then use degreaser adn water to wash the entire engine bay, scrub with soft brush to release builtup crap and presto a nice clean engine bay. If you have an alloy item in the engine bay polish with autosole and generally remove everything , clean it and paint it or polish it or powdercoat it or what ever, it takes time and money but its worth the results.

Stay tuned for my section in mainenance with a more comprehensive list of tools for the home workshop.

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TEIN 'v' WHITELINE

I really can't offer my opinion on this as I haven't been in a car with whiteline suspension. TEIN will cost you around $600 second hand for a set of 4 and are rock hard to most people find it too uncomfortable to drive in. I love it and they corner (stick not drift) really well with the tyre combo I have at the moment.

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I got Falken Azenis on my front at the moment and they are certainly nice tyres.

Back to that list of tools you had listed before, where would you recommend I could buy them for around the prices you listed I need to start getting into my car :twisted: also in regards to taking things off and giving them a good clean (like piping etc) is there any way to know you wont screw it :?: My luck is that I'll take something off and not know how to put it back on, or oil will piss out of it, or worse :?

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JimBo

Most shops like AutoBarn or supercheap auto or REPCO etc can sell you ramps, jacks and stands, the rest you should get froma hardware store. You may find the tools a bit cheaper at some specialty tool stores, just shop around.

Stuffing it up.

Have you got a digital camera? If so email me/us pics of the stuff you want to remove and we will tell you if you can or use a pic off my site of the engine bay and explain which bit you want to touch. Most items in the engine bay are easilly removable and will not cause too much stress, the main thing is to remember what order things come off in. Get a note pad and write down the order of removal then just reverse to re-attach. If you take out a bolt that is holding a bracket on, then screw that bolt into the hole once you remove the bracket that way you will not loose the bolt. Do not force a bolt if it seems stuck, spray some wd40 (hardware store) on rusted bolts and just bolts in general this way it will make it easy to remove them, tust me when I say you don't want to have to try and remove a broken bolt like I had to from my head when an exhaust manifold stud broke DAM. There is nothing like learning so don't be scared to pull stuff of and have a look, don't remove fuel lines or oil lines and any other line that may be under pressure.

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Cool, I have a hardware house like 2 mins walk from my place. I'll have to try and find an AutoBarn though.

I'd really like to get my hands dirty and learn more about it so in the future working on the car will be second nature. I'd also like to confirm things that were on the auction report such as the 550 cc injectors, the turbo (not sure if it's aftermarket or not), the ECU (would you believe I don't have a single tool at my new place :) so removing it from it's bracket is a little hard :) )

I'm going to buy a digital camera once my redundancy comes through also, so pics shouldn't be too hard to get.

Hehe taking my rims off to replace with stock for my blue slip is the closest I've got to working on the car so far :roll: Would a pair of overalls and one of those flat rolling gizmo's you lay on be a good investment too ?

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