Can Gtr Oil Pan Fit A Gts Block?

[Tomei_Powered]

Has anyone tried fitting a GTR oil pan on a GTS block?

[DCIEVE]

No can do.

26 is drilled for both, but not the other way round

[robots]

Unless you use the same sump adapter plate the rb30 guys use.

[The Dan]

PM Shanef.

He makes the adapter plates. His adapter plates are the only ones that actually fit properly.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/shanef-m20917.html

[Beer Baron]

actually pro-engines also make a very good adapter plate that works very well and it retains an internal oil pick-up which is nice. http://www.proengines.com.au/sumpadapter.html

[proengines]

PM Shanef.

He makes the adapter plates. His adapter plates are the only ones that actually fit properly.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/shanef-m20917.html

I'm not one to get into an argument "3lit3 32" but you obviously don't know wtf you are talking about in regard to the Pro Engine adapters. They fit perfectly as I'm sure many people from here, the UK, US, Canada, Japan and even Estonia can attest to. Thanks Beer Baron for picking that up.

I'm happy for someone to recommend someone elses product, not happy if they do it by putting shit on another product that is well known to be spot on.

Cheers,

Greg.

[NYTSKY]

Are these needed for an RB25DET oil pan to fit on an RB30 block?

[The Dan]

I'm not one to get into an argument "3lit3 32" but you obviously don't know wtf you are talking about in regard to the Pro Engine adapters. They fit perfectly as I'm sure many people from here, the UK, US, Canada, Japan and even Estonia can attest to. Thanks Beer Baron for picking that up.

I'm happy for someone to recommend someone elses product, not happy if they do it by putting shit on another product that is well known to be spot on.

Cheers,

Greg.

No worries. If you could just point out where I was putting shit on another product then I will happily remove my comment. I don't like to put shit on anyone so I am sorry if I have offended you by recommending Shane. We have tried two other local suppliers (Australia) for these adapter plates and neither fit which is the whole reason Shane went about making them in the first place.

I'm sure the Pro engines ones fit perfectly and I never said they didn't so maybe pull your head in.

[DCIEVE]

Your post was fairly obviously saying shanef's are the ONLY ones that fit mate - I think pro-engines has every right to pull you up on that!

[R31Nismoid]

Agreed. It's not the first instance where a post has implied similar things from the qld people.

Play nice, or don't play at all.

Back to the topic.

[proengines]

Thanks guys, I'm not normally one to get into an argument but it was the "only ones that actually fit properly" comment that got me given the many hours of digitising and test fitting it took to make sure they do.

Mine are probably more expensive that some others around but it is a complete kit and there's no dicking around, plus we make them from steel which takes a lot longer to machine and is harder on tooling but to make a plate with the same tensile strength from 5083 aluminium would have meant it needed to be around 15mm thick which just wont fit properly, plus it is fairly ductile so it doesn't "spring back" like steel when it's twisted or bent and considering the diff is mounted on the adapter things just didn't add up. We did consider hard anodised 6061 or 7075 alloy but the cost would have been through the roof for no real benefit as even hard anodised 7075 has a surface only as hard as mild steel (mind you, 7075 is a lot nicer to machine than steel). The 6061 and 7075 alloys are great when there needs to be a strength/weight compromise, for instance brake hats or suspension components.

I'd much prefer to sell just the adapter plates for $600 and let people get their own bits and pieces but people seem to want something they can just fit up and that's it. For example, to make a pickup that fits there's $100 worth of stainless mandrel bends and adapters, a laser cut flange and support tab plus a couple of hours to cut, jig up and weld it all together. Add the price of an oil return T-piece plus the fasteners, templates, instructions and good protective packing and it does add up.

Anyway, I'll pull my head back in now as requested.

P.S. NYTSKY, you don't need an adapter to fit a 25 sump on a 30 but you will need to bend down the baffles at the rear as the conrods will hit them.

[NYTSKY]

Thanks guys, I'm not normally one to get into an argument but it was the "only ones that actually fit properly" comment that got me given the many hours of digitising and test fitting it took to make sure they do.

Mine are probably more expensive that some others around but it is a complete kit and there's no dicking around, plus we make them from steel which takes a lot longer to machine and is harder on tooling but to make a plate with the same tensile strength from 5083 aluminium would have meant it needed to be around 15mm thick which just wont fit properly, plus it is fairly ductile so it doesn't "spring back" like steel when it's twisted or bent and considering the diff is mounted on the adapter things just didn't add up. We did consider hard anodised 6061 or 7075 alloy but the cost would have been through the roof for no real benefit as even hard anodised 7075 has a surface only as hard as mild steel (mind you, 7075 is a lot nicer to machine than steel). The 6061 and 7075 alloys are great when there needs to be a strength/weight compromise, for instance brake hats or suspension components.

I'd much prefer to sell just the adapter plates for $600 and let people get their own bits and pieces but people seem to want something they can just fit up and that's it. For example, to make a pickup that fits there's $100 worth of stainless mandrel bends and adapters, a laser cut flange and support tab plus a couple of hours to cut, jig up and weld it all together. Add the price of an oil return T-piece plus the fasteners, templates, instructions and good protective packing and it does add up.

Anyway, I'll pull my head back in now as requested.

P.S. NYTSKY, you don't need an adapter to fit a 25 sump on a 30 but you will need to bend down the baffles at the rear as the conrods will hit them.

This is what happened when we cranked it over by hand. Heard this light scraping noise on rod 1. Thought straight away it was the rod hitting the baffle

Sump will be off next weekend.

[dano4127]

Yeah what a prick of a thing to do, I also forgot to bend down the fins in my 25 sump and went about fitting up the 3L, just before first start up I went back and re-read cubes' Rb30 guide and then remembered the fins!!!!!

Bitch of a job to do with the motor in but I did it