Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have been experiencing power cut when under load in gears 3-5 low revs.....starts to boost then cuts out.....new coils fixed my miss but still got cut.

I have a SAFC, shouldnt this fix any R&R cut???

can a SAFC reset itself?

or will its reset if my car battery goes flat or disconnected or alarm is immobilised???

Can any let me know how to check to see it SAFC has returned to factory settings.

Thanks!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/
Share on other sites

does it miss at all or just go slower? could just be coils

safc will only help r&r i its set up to do so. rich and retard is the ecus way of protecting the engine from what it deems excessive airflow, and an safc works by bending the airflow meter signal.

If you tuned it to be a bit leaner it would be bending the afm voltage away from the r&r limit, but potentially leaning out the engine in the midrange is a bad idea.

could even be beneficial to remove the safc if you still have stock turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/#findComment-4209149
Share on other sites

def not coils as just replaced them....not missing.....it completely cuts out...

stock turbo....but safc should help rather then hinder tho....more boost and power then stock, therefore need to tune ratios to match.....

thoughts???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/#findComment-4209260
Share on other sites

yeah thats the road i thought i had to go down....

but just got it tuned 2 months ago and was fine....then all of a sudden it started missing and cutting out.....replaced coils and fixed the miss....

thought safc would hold its tune for more then 2 months....

what can cause a safc to reset?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/#findComment-4209444
Share on other sites

What has probably happened is that you had the SAFC tuned such that it was lowering the afm voltage at 4000rpm 'just enough' to get under the 'airflow cut' threshold....(IMO the airflow cut doesn't act until engine rpm reaches 4000rpm. If air flow voltage exceeds the 'airflow cut' threshold at 4000 rpm, ignition is cut straight away...the threshold increase with engine rpm up to about 5500rpm).

The afm is temperature compensated but only inherently so it is not perfectly independant of temp. You would have had the SAFC tuned to get the afm voltage under the 'airflow cut' threshold a couple of months ago when the weather was cooler. Now that the weather is warmer, air density and humidity are different, it may be that you are hitting the 'airflow cut threshold' again. You may have been only missing the airflow cut threshold by a few mV before.

Plus the overall efficiency of your engine will change with temp as well...

BTW this is not R&R. IMO R&R is triggered by excessive knock...it doesn't cause engine to cut completely..

Anyway I would say get your SAFC retuned to suit warmer weather or lower your boost just a touch...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/#findComment-4209646
Share on other sites

Except warmer weather reduces the air flow/density for a given boost.

Yep that is true...I was referring more to the accuracy of the afm with respect to temperature...ie it's output is x volts per unit mass of air flowing through it...in theory the afm is temperature compensated because it relies on transfer of heat put into the air by the heater element to the receiving element. It could be that as the air temp into the afm increases, it over-estimates the velocity of the air....not by much mind you, and probably not enough to make any real difference to the engine tune overall, but enough to trigger air flow cut if you are already so close it...Also the electronics of the afm are analogue right up to the ECU and would also be effected by temperature...once again not by much but maybe just enough to trigger air flow cut...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/#findComment-4210037
Share on other sites

thanks for your help guys....

i havent had this before....i had a different 33, exact same car...making exact same power...same mods except for the safc.....would this problem be because the safc tune is making the car get close to the airflow cut which in contrast to no safc the airflows are not altered and not close to airflow cut?

or am just way off???

also what gains are made from safc? just fuel economy or power gains? and if so to what extent.....because i dont pay for fuel so not an issue....and if i have to wind down boost then the marginal loss of untuned car.

also what if i get the tuner to do a very emissions friendly tune, would it improve my situation....as in reduced airflow.

cheers guys....new to this so appreciate your help!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/#findComment-4210216
Share on other sites

safc was tuned 2 months ago...

is there anyway to fix the problem? or is it just something i need to put up with....drop boost...

what happens if i want a bigger turbo and make more power? say a hiflow for example....what would i have to do to resolve issue.

ultimately i would like to fix the problem....

thanks!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/#findComment-4210626
Share on other sites

safc was tuned 2 months ago...

is there anyway to fix the problem? or is it just something i need to put up with....drop boost...

what happens if i want a bigger turbo and make more power? say a hiflow for example....what would i have to do to resolve issue.

ultimately i would like to fix the problem....

thanks!!

You can do a few things...

1. Drop the boost...My guess is you would not need to drop it that much...This is the safest option and you may not lose that much power...

2. Adjust your afm voltage correction (SAFC) to get underneath the airflow cut. Start at 4000rpm and work up from there...BUT do not do this unless you are checking either AFRs or EGTs at the same time. I would advise you to get a tuner to do this...

3. Change the ECU...Unfortunately you have hit the brick wall in the standard ECU...there is not much you can do...Nissan have put these limitations in the ECU to keep their warranty claims department quiet...All car manufacturers do this..

At this point in time I am going to say start searching the forum because from now on for every answer we give you, you will have two more questions...you will find the answers and learn a lot at the same time..

best of luck...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241066-rr-cuti-think/#findComment-4210751
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Solid update, got all the downforces now.  You going to be running aus time attack again? love the jacking solution, spend the dollars on what makes it go fast is best way.
    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
×
×
  • Create New...