Jump to content
SAU Community

Wich Size Of Wastegate To Go?

Nick378

By Nick378,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

First of all I would have to assume the engine you are using, then the revs you will be taking her to, then the turbo you are using.

So if it's an RB25 with a GT3X type turbo and revving to ~8krpm...

A 38 will do the job but bigger is better in this case. Better boost control will be had with the 44.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
lol sorry for the lack of informations. Your about right though!

It's a rb25det with stock internal. With a T31/T04e 60-1 with a 0,63 a/r

But i won't rev it to 8k.

Maximum 6900-7000 rpm.

I'd still use the 44. The gate pretty much has to be big enough to relieve pressure from the turbo enough to slow the turbine down sufficiently to maintain a constant boost level. If you go too small it will spike, sometimes harshly. As I said, a 38 will do the job, not quite sure if it'll spike for you as it's too close to call. Maybe you're paying too much for the 44 and if you found someone who could sell you one at a better price, you might be persuaded to get the 44 anyway. :blink:

oh and what could be the best set-up possible for the wastegate piping on a stock rb25det manifold?

Cause i know that the piping can affect a lot the flow..

You should put it as close to the base of the turbo as you can. You will need to have it spray welded onto the manifold as you can't weld mild steel, or anything else for that matter, to cast. It needs to be spray welded to deal with the expansion/contraction of the manifold.

Goodluck

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Already a very detailed thread (from the Quick Ref sticky)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html

Which you'll then find this thread linked.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ex...zes-t43638.html

Cheers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      A little PU bush story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They do. The pale yellow translucent ones from Japan were .... I dunno. Useless? Whiteline and SuperPro are probably fairly similar. There's bound to be a range of different hardnesses amongst the dozens of options on the market. The simple fact is that the pineapples don't get up inside the bush at all. They just sort of exist in the space between the washer/bracket and the subframe's bush outer tube, and...exert a bit of force between them? Or something like that. I'm sure that with enough provocation, they will simply allow one to more wrt the other.
    • Kinkstaah
      A little PU bush story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.
    • Butters
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Butters · Posted

      Can recommend the Frenchys kit, been using it 2 years now with no issue, very happy with it.  Only thing for me was upgrading the thermo fan but I am super fussy on cooling.   Also interested in electric AC, partly for boot mount to have a clean bay and partly would love the idea of cooling off the car before i get in. The battery setup to do that might be tricky / expensive though.  Found this an interesting watch.    
    • The Bogan
      A little PU bush story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I put Whiteline pineapples in my old 33, they came in a 6 pack of them, got rid of the axle tramp altogether, cheap, quick and easy install,  they were pretty solid units though...???high durometer???? and NVH was increased a fair bit How hard are the ones you installed?
    • GTSBoy
      A little PU bush story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd suggest the answer to the first question is at least a qualified "yes". I'll come back to that. Pineapples just don't do a lot to solidify the mounting of the subframe. They do a little bit, and that little bit was clearly helpful to me in the past, but the main thing they are intended to be used for is to tip the orientation of the subframe to try to either dial in more or less anti-squat. You can install them one way to try to increase launch traction, or the other way to try to increase lateral grip (at the notional expense of longitudinal traction). Or, as I did, you install them neutral, which only really offers a little bit of "snugging" up of the subframe. When I did pineapples, that was the only option. No-one had a machined alloy collar like the GKTech ones. There were some other options, but nothing like the slip in collars. And it is clear from looking at them that they occupy almost all the free space inside the rubber bush, so they will do a lot to stop them moving internally. So I thought, "that's the game for me!". Obviously the next/adjacent step is poly bushes, but what's the point in doing that with all the work and hassle required to change them over, when jamming (and I mean literally jamming) some alloy into the rubber bushes probably gives an equivalent, or possibly even superior result? So, to go back to your 1st question, I would suggest, for the investment of <<$100 and a morning spent lying under the car swearing and getting some sore fingers, it is certainly something you should try. Who knows? Maybe your situation is so severe that it doesn't solve it. But it might help a lot. If your problem is as severe as you say it is, the next thing to look at is what the rest of the bushes in the rear end are made from. Things like the Hardrace arms with hardened rubber bushes might be a good thing (for the purposes of having adjustability AND stiffer bushes). Otherwise, just poly bushes throughout could be a help. Or following in my fever dream footsteps and putting a lot of sphericals into the rear? Eliminate undersired movement to avoid the build up of resonances that cause the tramp. Also, if you have adjustable uppers in the rear, and you haven't put effort into adjusting the traction arms to minimise bump steer, there might be some advantage in that. If you don't want to go to the effort of doing it yourself (like I am pretty much forced to in Adelaide, owing to a lack of race alignment specialists) then surely there's a place in Melbs that is able to do it. It will cost $$, But that's life.
×
×
  • Create New...