Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so im in the market for some cams for my RB20 can anyone recomend any? im chasing around 250rwkws. car will have 040, 600cc, E8, 3071, 3" turbo back and 3" highflowcat and fmic. what lift and durations and lifts should i be looking at? i was looking at 264 with 11mm??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241282-cams-for-rb20/
Share on other sites

That sort of lift cams may beed to relieve the head for clearance. They also sound like Procams which means you need new valves springs and solid lifters....so thats a lot of money for a head.

3lit3 32 ... any credible before / after dyno runs with the cams on teh same dyno / tuner?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241282-cams-for-rb20/#findComment-4213471
Share on other sites

That sort of lift cams may beed to relieve the head for clearance. They also sound like Procams which means you need new valves springs and solid lifters....so thats a lot of money for a head.

3lit3 32 ... any credible before / after dyno runs with the cams on teh same dyno / tuner?

Dyno was a dynamics at a place called Dyno Source but they have closed now. Dr Drift was the tuner and we did the car over a 5 or 6 episode. Replacing parts as they ran out of room to make power. It was an experiment to see the max hp from each item. 233rwkw before cams, 260 after cams and 1psi less boost plus 2 deg less timing. I didn't get a print out of the last 260 run because the guy that owns dyno source kicked us out coz his wife just went into labour. Dr Drift is a member on here so you can ask him if you need credible evidence.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241282-cams-for-rb20/#findComment-4213764
Share on other sites

Dyno was a dynamics at a place called Dyno Source but they have closed now. Dr Drift was the tuner and we did the car over a 5 or 6 episode. Replacing parts as they ran out of room to make power. It was an experiment to see the max hp from each item. 233rwkw before cams, 260 after cams and 1psi less boost plus 2 deg less timing. I didn't get a print out of the last 260 run because the guy that owns dyno source kicked us out coz his wife just went into labour. Dr Drift is a member on here so you can ask him if you need credible evidence.

So you needed two degrees less timing with larger duration camshafts??? Did you advance the crap out of it or something?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241282-cams-for-rb20/#findComment-4229702
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
    • @Duncan Random side note, did the cops give you the driver/owners details of the taxi and then did Shannons give you a refund of the excess once you supplied those details?
    • Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past  
×
×
  • Create New...