Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys and Girls,

Well its time for me to do a basic service on my M35 ARX and I was just wanting to get an idea of what sort of oil ppl are using with their VQ25DETs and whether M35 owners use the same oil for Auto/4WD/Diff as with the C34.

I was thinking of using a Castrol Edge 5W-30 engine oil along with Castrol SAF-XA 75W140 for the diffs and Castrol Transmax Z for auto/4WD (as suggested in stagea parts list for C34)?

Does anybody use anything different from this and why?

Also what do other people do for filters? Buy nissan or buy aftermarket?

Thanks very much,

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/
Share on other sites

Hi Guys and Girls,

Well its time for me to do a basic service on my M35 ARX and I was just wanting to get an idea of what sort of oil ppl are using with their VQ25DETs and whether M35 owners use the same oil for Auto/4WD/Diff as with the C34.

I was thinking of using a Castrol Edge 5W-30 engine oil along with Castrol SAF-XA 75W140 for the diffs and Castrol Transmax Z for auto/4WD (as suggested in stagea parts list for C34)?

Does anybody use anything different from this and why?

Also what do other people do for filters? Buy nissan or buy aftermarket?

Thanks very much,

Brendan

I am using Castrol Edge 5W - 30 in my C34 and aftermarket filters - high flow Pipercross in my airbox. (Also non Nissan synthetic ATF in my auto, steering and Atessa).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4215061
Share on other sites

Hi Guys and Girls,

Well its time for me to do a basic service on my M35 ARX and I was just wanting to get an idea of what sort of oil ppl are using with their VQ25DETs and whether M35 owners use the same oil for Auto/4WD/Diff as with the C34.

I was thinking of using a Castrol Edge 5W-30 engine oil along with Castrol SAF-XA 75W140 for the diffs and Castrol Transmax Z for auto/4WD (as suggested in stagea parts list for C34)?

Does anybody use anything different from this and why?

Also what do other people do for filters? Buy nissan or buy aftermarket?

Thanks very much,

Brendan

Hi Brendan,

I use Motul Chrono 300v oil.

I ONLY use synthetic oil and have tried a few - Valvoline, Amsoil, Castrol Edge, Mobil 1 (Supersynth), Motul 8100, Penrite Syn, Royal Purple...

I use the 300v because the car runs much smoother than the others (all have been 40 weight - except maybe the Syn), the engine seems livelier and just runs much better. I normally use the Motul engine clean every 20,000kms, but last time I used Amsoil's one.

From personal experience alone I would recommend the 300v or the Royal Purple.

Also from personal experience I would pass on the 8100, Syn and Edge.

The 8100 in particular left a lot of crap behind :P

I change oil every 10,000kms. It really is not necessary to change any more frequently than that if you use a fully synthetic oil.

I usually use the Pitworks oil filter (same as the Xtrail filter) but at my last change I decided to try the Amsoil filter. It is a much larger unit and uses Nanomolecular strands to filter instead of paper (they also do a Nano air filter which I will try soon). To be honest, I have not noticed a difference.

I have had Nissan perform a full service on my transmission, so the fluid they use with the addition of some kind of "satchel" (which Nissan are putting in all Auto boxes for all new cars... No I don't know what is in it).

I don't know if it was the service, but the gears are much better, smoother whilst driving and much quicker changes :D

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4217343
Share on other sites

Thanks ppl for the replies,

iamhe77,

Thanks for the tip with the oil and the filters, I appreciate the tip and will definitely give the Motul a shot.

Was your transmission running badly before you had it serviced? Its just that my transmission changes really smoothly and quite quickly ( about 500rpm increase at full throttle before changing, is that quick for an one of these cars?).

Thanks very much for the info again ppl :D

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4218053
Share on other sites

Thanks ppl for the replies,

iamhe77,

Thanks for the tip with the oil and the filters, I appreciate the tip and will definitely give the Motul a shot.

Was your transmission running badly before you had it serviced? Its just that my transmission changes really smoothly and quite quickly ( about 500rpm increase at full throttle before changing, is that quick for an one of these cars?).

Thanks very much for the info again ppl :D

Brendan

6

No, my transmission was not running badly. It did have smooth changes and changed the same as it seems yours does while in "D".

It is just that with the service and whatever is in that satchel, the transmission in that much smoother and quicker to change. I have not really played around with the tiptronic though.

If you are happy with how your trans is shifting, then why are you looking at changing the fluids? Nissan actually don't change transmission fluids anymore as part of normal servicing.

Like I said though, they are putting this satchel in all new automatic vehicles to increase performance on reliability. I do know that it manufactured in the US and Nissan have purchased exclusive rights to it.

I do not care if it is a satchel of bull sperm. It has improved a transmission that had nothing wrong with it in the first place. The reason I got it serviced was because it was dropping power momentarily when cruising & I wanted to rule out the trans.

Glad to be of help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4218238
Share on other sites

Yeah I am quite happy the way the transmission feels atm, just thought that I should change the trans oil as my first service of the car in Aus. Perhaps i'll put it off for a while then, but will definitely keep in mind the top secret nissan satchel for when the time comes :(

Thanks again for the advice

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241445-m35-servicing/#findComment-4219244
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...