Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LSD's have a higher diff ratio i thought? and makes taking off from the lights much faster.. also the obious will always get power down to both wheels rather then just dumping the clutch to just get 1 spinning.. and getting rolled by a car with a lsd off the line..

thats my understanding anyways.. i would go a gtst diff i hear those things are tuff.. keep in mind if u get different ratios ur speedo will be off so might need to get that recalibrated..

Leigh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241625-lsd/#findComment-4217729
Share on other sites

if you do a burnout with a non lsd car on grass it may still spin both wheels. even on cement it may still spin both wheels. my old falcon had an open centre diff and i did a burnout on the driveway and it spun both wheels.

the most reliable way to check is to jack up the back wheels and turn 1 wheel. if the other wheel turns the same way as the wheel you are turning then it is an LSD, if it turns the opposite way then it is open centre.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241625-lsd/#findComment-4222400
Share on other sites

if i wanted to make it lsd for 2 wheel spinner, wohat would i get, gtst lsd? orr?

If you get an entire LSD unit from a GTS-t then it will have a lower final drive ratio. You'll lose acceleration in-gear, although each gear will stretch to a higher speed.

Not particularly recommended, unless you find that you could do with a bit more speed in each gear.

I'm pretty sure that Skylines have the speedo sensor coming out of the gearbox, so changing your final drive affects your speedo reading.

What are the advantages of having a LSD ?

In Nik's case, when you rip a skid you're more likely to leave two black marks on the road instead of one.

From a technical standpoint, you're less likely to break traction on one wheel as power is sent to the other that isn't slipping. With an open diff, power flows through the path of least resistance. If one wheel starts to slip, it gets more power. This means it slips more, and the wheel that isn't spinning gets less. Eventual scenario is that the free spinning wheel ends up getting all the power and the other wheel that has grip just sits there doing nothing.

LSD's have a higher diff ratio i thought?

A diff in a turbo car will nearly always have a lower final drive ratio than its NA counterpart if the displacements are the same. With less torque, the NA engine has to be kept up in its rev range while the FI car can use the extra midrange oomph from the compressor to make up for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241625-lsd/#findComment-4230377
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

i had a guy at the tranny shop say tht if it goes the opposite its an lsd so i jacked it up when i was working on it and did it and they went the same then when i finally got it on the road (completly gutless mind you and there were no cars around) i sidestepped it only chirped and felt like my side then when i went and did a skid both were going then when i got off the brake and held my foot flat it did two little drifts then died ????

my gearing is really really tall what speed does first gear normally get you?

Edited by LUME
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241625-lsd/#findComment-4380151
Share on other sites

is there any visual differences? like the fins or sumthing when ever my car drives in the wet or if i rip one it slides almost instantly and if i did a burn out it left 2 black even lines, so do i have lsd? or just a lock diff?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241625-lsd/#findComment-4382659
Share on other sites

how about a mini-spool, would this affect the gear ratios...

It doesn't affect gear ratios as the construction of your differential is independent of the ratios. The ratio for each gear in the gearbox is obviously unaffected.

Inside the differential is a final drive gear, which affects your actual speed relative to the engine speed in each gear. This gear has a certain ratio. You can make it any ratio you want (within reason), so whether you keep it stock or change it is up to you.

and is it good/bad?

A mini-spool is a locked differential. Both your driven wheels will spin at the same rate, no matter what. It's great if you just want dry weather traction above all else, especially in a straight line. Track cars, like drag cars V8 Supercars, run fully locked diffs (but they'll probably use a full spool since it's stronger).

The bad sides are that the car will understeer more, you'll skip the inside tyre around bends so life is reduced, and since both wheels spin the same way chances are both will break traction at the same time. That can be problematic in the wet.

If you must have a fully locked diff, I'd suggest a "Detroit Locker" instead. While under power it behaves like a completely locked diff, but when not on the throttle it unlocks. That means that you can coast through a corner without chirping the inside tyre, or spinning out in the wet.

It's a very compromise kind of system. Tearing up to a bend and turning in with a reasonable amount of speed so you can coast through it, and not touching the gas until you're practically straight, can make you look like a bit of a git. Since it goes from fully open to fully locked the transition can unsettle the balance of the car if you get on the gas before you get it reasonably straight.

If you were building a drag car that you had to street drive to the venue I'd suggest it. Otherwise, I just don't see it as being a particularly good idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241625-lsd/#findComment-4386858
Share on other sites

Of the cars ive driven with mini spools and even welded diffs, wet/dry condition, neither are all that bad, as long as you are aware that you are in fact driving a car with a locker and dont try to be a hero around corners in the wet, its fine. Even in my mates S2 rx7, which isnt exactly heavy in the arse end. with a welded diff is fine in the wet and that diff has been welded for around 2.5 years.

Obvously an lsd would be a much better option by far, but getting the welder out can be a good way to learn how a car behaves when boths wheels are spinning evenly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241625-lsd/#findComment-4386895
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
×
×
  • Create New...