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My N/a R33 Can't Do A Burnout..

baby34

By baby34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted

do what your doing but have the front wheels locked either left or right,should help you.

Or get your mates to lift the rear guards, lol

And yes clutches help alot.

P.S remember you got better brakes then most other cars on the road too.

look in the group buy section for 'LineLocker Kits' lol

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

shtock as rocks internally mate.

still going strong! getting few last bits and pieces done in about 2 weeks :P

as long as there is no detonation, you service often and you dont thrash the thing at every set of lights it can last as long as you want!

Adam

Gus- Grand Master

Gus-

Posted
Posted

find a nice moderate hill.

drive to the top, put the handbrake up and whack it into first.

clutch in.

rev to around 4 grand...maybes some more.

take off hand brake...car will roll back.

when rolled about 5 meters...drop clutch

and some smoke sould appear.

easy...or even easier...buy a car with some powah...like a charade...mine did sweet little clutch drops haha...and my pulsar did even better ones...skyline...dont even wanna try haha...

pretty sure im on m p's aswell n shes turbo'd....suckers :P

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
find a nice moderate hill.

drive to the top, put the handbrake up and whack it into first.

clutch in.

rev to around 4 grand...maybes some more.

take off hand brake...car will roll back.

when rolled about 5 meters...drop clutch

and some smoke sould appear.

easy...or even easier...buy a car with some powah...like a charade...mine did sweet little clutch drops haha...and my pulsar did even better ones...skyline...dont even wanna try haha...

pretty sure im on m p's aswell n shes turbo'd....suckers :P

Your doing that the hard way, just put it in reverse, get up to about 20-30k's then put it in first and dump the clutch, thats how i use to do it in my old charade that i posted pics of, and to top it off once it stopped going backwards you rip the hand brake on and sit there doing a burn out, in a FWD that is.

This does not help him tho since its an auto, had an auto telstar after a dumb bitch wrote off my charade, the auto only lasted one roll back then every gear was a forward one, even park, reverse and neutral.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

sigh... you need about 3rwkw to do a burnout....

auto: brake and accel both to the firewall... if you can't co-ordinate this then just ask someone else to kill you as you will obviously not be able to do it yourself

manual: clutch in... rev the shit out of it.... drop clutch...

srsly... my old camira can do it, so could my old VK wagon, my mum's 83 mazda 323, mum's current 89 camry, my old 325i... and my dad's 735i...

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
they way to tell if its a GTS4 or not is on the dash there will be a light for "SLIP" and "4WD" (not 100% sure on the later) they should come on when you start the car.

Series 2 had the slip and 4wd lights as well as the series 1

P.S remember you got better brakes then most other cars on the road too.

Good brakes.......good brakes!!!! tell that to the mazda astina i hit in 2002 when she slammed on her brakes. I had greenstuff pads all round and plenty of stopping distance/reaction time.

The damn car weighs 1600kg; maybe more!

Burn in hell nissan for not putting turbo brakes in!!!!!

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
sigh... you need about 3rwkw to do a burnout....

Tell that to the 07' bmw 320i rental car i got while my beema was being serviced lolz and yes i turned off the traction control + added water and oil (Seriously)

also the holden viva, honda jazz (actually that was fun on the dirt), pergeo 206

the volvo s40's handbrake wouldnt hold the fat front tyres

the landcruiser v8 was fun in the mud but i had to wash it before i returned it lolz

ps: all of these were loan cars while i had various cars serviced at stealerships; they give them to you for free.

I make it my personal crusade to fuucck up their cars as much as possible before i return them to pay my 350-2000dollar service fee's to keep my damn warranty; 200bux for 5litres of castrol edge my ass

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted
manual: clutch in... rev the shit out of it.... drop clutch...

Works better when you get going to step on the brake :sick: Standstill ftw

Ps. ive never done 1 burnout in my skyline :/ If you have shitloads of money to waste on tyres you would have enough money to buy a turbo car :)

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted
WYTSKY so u just basicly got bolt on turbo / manifold kit, injectors, power FC and a few other smaller things taken to a mechanic puts em on and all sweet? seems to easy to be true

Pretty much, just make sure the engine management you use can alter ignition timing as well, and a good tuner that is confident with tuning a DE+T.

I'm doing mine hopefully next month. I've got 95% of the parts, the rest will happen during the build :sick: 7PSI seemed to be the safe boost level, but it seems that they can easily take more! Anyways, if you want more of a read there's a few of us on the turbo conversion path in the how to turbo thread :)

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

i got a gts-4 so i wouldnt go through tires, it still does burnouts ( last time i check it was no smoke because it was wet but it held it for 5 seconds and i had rubber on my guards and dont forget im Mr effed engine here. I want to see what it can do with 50thou pistons in it :) )

P.S. i did do this on my property which is all uphill in the wet but its a gts-4 so thats really good for it :sick: )

also you cant do burnouts in rental cars. They are modified to not do a burnout and ive had a go in a xr6 NA which can do it and the hire one didnt just like every other car

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
also you cant do burnouts in rental cars. They are modified to not do a burnout and ive had a go in a xr6 NA which can do it and the hire one didnt just like every other car

Haha we'll just see about that; im getting the lubricant......i mean baby oil out next time.

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted (edited)
Haha we'll just see about that; im getting the lubricant......i mean baby oil out next time.

haha four seasons glow in the dark tube is the burnout oil id say to be good :)

Edited by central coast person
WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted
"WYTSKY so u just basicly got bolt on turbo / manifold kit, injectors, power FC and a few other smaller things taken to a mechanic puts em on and all sweet? seems to easy to be true"

"I'm doing mine hopefully next month. I've got 95% of the parts, the rest will happen during the build :sick: 7PSI seemed to be the safe boost level, but it seems that they can easily take more! Anyways, if you want more of a read there's a few of us on the turbo conversion path in the how to turbo thread :) "

bah...was easy as pie... honestly... and watchu talkin bout taking it to a mechanic?! did it all myself apart from injectors and afm, and drilling oil and water lines! I read up and learnt about it on the net... looked at my engine.. looked at pics of a turbo engine... and then a decent amount of labour and done :/ when I upgraded from standard turbo to hypergear I did the whole changeover in a couple of hours

and they can take more psi if: you don't fang all the time, your tuner eliminates all the detonation...

also... just so you guys know... 14psi from a much larger after market turbo is alot more then 12-14psi from a standard turbo.. so the strain the engine is under is even more then you think....

oh.... also.. if you have your non turbo heatsheild... keep it! I can show you how to make an awsome cop deflector for your turbo!

u guys can pm me if there is any other q's...also have my last dyno sheet if interested...

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