Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i've tried a search on this and couldn't find anyone else asking about the same problem

I have an R33 gtst 4 door S1. The drivers side power window can go down, but doesn't go back up. The motor is fine, you can hear it spinning.

Now i've pulled it apart to try and see what was wrong and i can't see anything wrong. I can manually push or pull the window up and down and the cable thing turns all ok.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241752-r33-power-window-not-going-up/
Share on other sites

Pretty common problem, few things it could be

mine was a combination of the relay and the door button panel.

to get it up in the mean time, take your battery out and put it next to the door, then take the door trim off, theres a little plug that you can disconnect that goes to the motor which goes through a hole.

wire up the positive and negative to the battery and touch them on the terminals going to the window motor, if it doesnt work then switch the terminals.

i stripped back the ends of some speaker wire and twisted them together at each end (obviously not the same one that goes to each terminal)

once that's done you probably just need a relay, either that or the button is locked on auto, it's a common problem like i said.

find out which door button panel you have, theres one with a black backing and one with a white (they're different wiring structure if i remember)

but go to an import spares place and just try a relay and a button panel individually, see where the problem actually lies. mine was unluckily in both

good luck

im not convinced its an electrical problem, as i can quite plainly hear the motor working when try to put the window up

i have got a complete motor and cable mechanism on its way from a wreckers now though, so just be replacing everything this will solve my issues

im not convinced its an electrical problem, as i can quite plainly hear the motor working when try to put the window up

i have got a complete motor and cable mechanism on its way from a wreckers now though, so just be replacing everything this will solve my issues

what i suggested to you would have confirmed whether the problem layed in the electrics or the motor/regulator

mine clicked nonstop when mine was the relay

from my experience it goes down cause theres less effort on the motor than pushing it back up. It will sound like its dying when you listen to it. If you do the direct power test as mentioned it would tell you if your motor is on its way out or if its the relay/switch.

i have the same problem in my r32, do i have to take the skin off to test the circuit or is the plug in between the jam of the door ? or in the car ?

im pretty sure the r32 doors are similar layout to r33, im not sure about the skin, but you'll see a small double plug that you can just pull apart and feed 12v down the pins going to the window motor

between the door trim and the shell of the door

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 馃檪 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
    • these are not the same
    • Best kept secret for seized bolts is crayons... Heat the sucker up with a torch, and push/melt crayon into it. Works a wonder. See if I can go 2 from 2 for you on how to get your bolts out...
  • Create New...