Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just finnished giving mine a clean and they came up pretty clear ive tried 4 different products and the best 1 that ive used is the meguiars mirror glaze proffesional series number 17 clear plastic cleaner in a little white bottle 236ml and its the best ive used its almost got rid of all the crap on the headlights will need 2 do a little bit more 2 get it clear as im a bit drunk 2 get it done properely :P

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'll be able to correct those just as in the pics Daniel (Goshn) has posted.

Most R34's have this issue and most of the time it's on the outside of the lens.

I can't correct the pitting though, just the minor scratches & the faded/oxidised film on the outside, they'll be clear again.

Please make a booking on 9387 8008 and we'll have her fixed up :down:

Cheers,

d.

do a lot of country driving?

I've done a bit, they're not stone chips though. It's as though the plastic has been stressed somehow. Like miniature cracks all through it.

Email replied to Damian.

For those wondering, the Meguires PlastX stuff works a treat, i was extremely sceptical but i went down and bought a bottle of it today and an applicator pad, they came up looking like a brand new set of lights minus a few stone chips, definatly worth the $19, will post pics if anyone is interested when i get them off my phone

  • 2 months later...

ive tried plastX, scratchX & even normal polish with a orbital and its still yellowy/foggy which im pretty sure its all in the inside now. i dont want to sand the lights down just incase i ruin it so ill just get a professional to open it up and clean the insides.

any further recommendations ?

  • 2 weeks later...

Gentlemen,

Be warned - polishishing headlights with some of the above mentioned products is doing more damage than good. A new light has a sealer that stops it from yellowing under sun exposure. You need to use a product that replaces the sealer after you polish. this way your not redoing the job every 3 months and doing more damage.

One word "Glassylite"

google it / ebay it / flickr it / youtube it.

Edited by R34GT-T

i always wax my headlights after a polish, with OCW. Has UV(b?) filters/blockers, etc... my headlights have held up fine 8 months after their last polish. But it's inevitable that they'll revert at some stage, but a 5 minute job with the RO, plus Edge green on with IP 3.01 and we're laughing again. This $100 dismantling job is a bit of a rip-off IMO

  • 3 months later...

Hey guys thought this thread might help me fix my cloudy drivers side headlight. So I bought myself some plasticX and although I removed what I could from the outside the headlight is still cloudy! Further investigation revealed that the plastic mounts on the housing have cracked and now have left a nice hole... So I am convinced that I need to clean the inside of the headlight and patch the hole. However no one has advised how to attempt this. There has been mention of removing the headlight and placing it in the oven and heating it until it is soft enough to separate, but no positive statement that anyone has done this. So my questions are:

1) How do I SAFELY open the headlight

2) Should I use plasticX on the inside or just a car wash and let it dry?

3) How to reseal the headlight.. Basically can I just reheat it until it is soft and sticky again and then clamp it shut and cool?

Cheers dudes and dudettes

Edited by chrisR34GTT

After polishing with Meguiars Plastx I always put a coating of PLEXUS on the headlights and even tail lights

http://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com/plexus.html

http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdeta...tAbsolutePage=2

  • 1 month later...

I just got that Glassylite product off ebay (about $40) it comes as a kit incl. 2 different wet sand papers, a polish and the all-important sealant that's supposed to stop the issue from reoccurring... gonna try it today. Will let you know how it turns out. I have the same sort of crap like llama_au above, it looks more like stress fractures than oxidation.

Mine have actually looked pretty good since the last time I hit them with PlastX which would have been a good four months ago or so. Maybe just takes repeated use and a lot of extra force. I'm pretty weak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...