Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just finnished giving mine a clean and they came up pretty clear ive tried 4 different products and the best 1 that ive used is the meguiars mirror glaze proffesional series number 17 clear plastic cleaner in a little white bottle 236ml and its the best ive used its almost got rid of all the crap on the headlights will need 2 do a little bit more 2 get it clear as im a bit drunk 2 get it done properely :P

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'll be able to correct those just as in the pics Daniel (Goshn) has posted.

Most R34's have this issue and most of the time it's on the outside of the lens.

I can't correct the pitting though, just the minor scratches & the faded/oxidised film on the outside, they'll be clear again.

Please make a booking on 9387 8008 and we'll have her fixed up :down:

Cheers,

d.

do a lot of country driving?

I've done a bit, they're not stone chips though. It's as though the plastic has been stressed somehow. Like miniature cracks all through it.

Email replied to Damian.

For those wondering, the Meguires PlastX stuff works a treat, i was extremely sceptical but i went down and bought a bottle of it today and an applicator pad, they came up looking like a brand new set of lights minus a few stone chips, definatly worth the $19, will post pics if anyone is interested when i get them off my phone

  • 2 months later...

ive tried plastX, scratchX & even normal polish with a orbital and its still yellowy/foggy which im pretty sure its all in the inside now. i dont want to sand the lights down just incase i ruin it so ill just get a professional to open it up and clean the insides.

any further recommendations ?

  • 2 weeks later...

Gentlemen,

Be warned - polishishing headlights with some of the above mentioned products is doing more damage than good. A new light has a sealer that stops it from yellowing under sun exposure. You need to use a product that replaces the sealer after you polish. this way your not redoing the job every 3 months and doing more damage.

One word "Glassylite"

google it / ebay it / flickr it / youtube it.

Edited by R34GT-T

i always wax my headlights after a polish, with OCW. Has UV(b?) filters/blockers, etc... my headlights have held up fine 8 months after their last polish. But it's inevitable that they'll revert at some stage, but a 5 minute job with the RO, plus Edge green on with IP 3.01 and we're laughing again. This $100 dismantling job is a bit of a rip-off IMO

  • 3 months later...

Hey guys thought this thread might help me fix my cloudy drivers side headlight. So I bought myself some plasticX and although I removed what I could from the outside the headlight is still cloudy! Further investigation revealed that the plastic mounts on the housing have cracked and now have left a nice hole... So I am convinced that I need to clean the inside of the headlight and patch the hole. However no one has advised how to attempt this. There has been mention of removing the headlight and placing it in the oven and heating it until it is soft enough to separate, but no positive statement that anyone has done this. So my questions are:

1) How do I SAFELY open the headlight

2) Should I use plasticX on the inside or just a car wash and let it dry?

3) How to reseal the headlight.. Basically can I just reheat it until it is soft and sticky again and then clamp it shut and cool?

Cheers dudes and dudettes

Edited by chrisR34GTT

After polishing with Meguiars Plastx I always put a coating of PLEXUS on the headlights and even tail lights

http://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com/plexus.html

http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdeta...tAbsolutePage=2

  • 1 month later...

I just got that Glassylite product off ebay (about $40) it comes as a kit incl. 2 different wet sand papers, a polish and the all-important sealant that's supposed to stop the issue from reoccurring... gonna try it today. Will let you know how it turns out. I have the same sort of crap like llama_au above, it looks more like stress fractures than oxidation.

Mine have actually looked pretty good since the last time I hit them with PlastX which would have been a good four months ago or so. Maybe just takes repeated use and a lot of extra force. I'm pretty weak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt
    • good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple
    • Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me.   Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt.   Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
    • Takes a few minutes to malke one. Wood, or steel, or a wrap strap with some strategically placed solids to provide teh drive onto the ribs.
    • I would strongly suggest using the correct tool. They are not expensive and make the job much easier and don't damage the lock ring. Google "fuel tank lock ring removal tool" to see what I'm talking about. 
×
×
  • Create New...