Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Drift Spec:

Just do a full service on the car your self.

I.e Fuel Filter, Gearbox Oil, Diff Oil.

And Slap a tube of Nulon G70 in the Gearbox and Diff.

You will be amazed how much difference it makes.

Use Castrol VMX80 for the gearbox, with Nulon G70.

Give it a couple hundred kays to work in then feel fourth again.

It should be better.

If the R33's are the same the fill plug is on the passengers side of the gearbox and roughly centered.

The empty plug is also roughly centered and is on the bottom of the gearbox (duh).

Grab your self a length of general garden hose make sure it is clean and dry.

Empty the oil then put the plug back in (duh) before filling :D

Feed the hose from your engine bay under the car following the exhaust and then put the hose in to the fill hole.

Fill her up from your engine bay.

My Gearbox takes roughly 2 ltr's of oil so I would shove 1ltr in then the Nulon G70 then the other ltr.

Castrol VMX80 is very good but if you want they (AutoBarn) will point you in the direction of Mutol Gearbox oil which is very expensive but does basically the same job just probably a little better maybe?!?!?!

Guest Timbo R33

It costs a bitmore than 700-1000 for a rebuild, trust me ya better off paying for a 2nd hand box and using that unless ya car is putting out some serious grunt!! Rebuild with factory parts is $3000 roughly - depends on who is doing it. If ya want one with race parts, I highly suggest you call somebody who does them, lets just say you wont be getting much back from $5000 if ya lucky and getting mates rates!!

Lets jsut say after calling a lot of places around.. Ive decided "box is good!!" :cool:

i just did a service and i used castrol syntrax 75w-90 full synthetic gearbox oil and a tube of nulon G70. the syntrax is a ****loads better than the vmx80 and cost about triple the price. Not as expensive as redline which was way too dear $140 for 1 gallon/ 3.7L. I must say that the box is sooo much smoother now even in the morning. Give it a go you will not regret it.

You guys have proven that additives do work through trial and error. However I was talking to Steve Cramp (Drifty you may want to call him at Manta Racing) and he claimed that it is not a good idea. From memory it was to do with the fact that the synchros require a certain amount of friction to change properly.

I cant remember exactly what he said however Food for thought.

Akira - FYI - The GTS25-t gearset is identical (internally) to the GTR. Obviously the transfer case etc etc aren't there, but strength wise, they're the same.

Double synchro's on 1st->3rd, and only singles on 4th and 5th... 4th seems the most common to go.

You've either got to be a really bad driver (who crunches alot), or have a *****load of power (and wearing slicks) to break one of these suckers...

matt

Originally posted by akira

Has anyone here rebuilt their gearboxes with strengthened gears etc?

Can GTR internals be used and is this is a good idea?

Any info appreciated before my 5 speed box is installed:cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...