Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I had the timing belts done and the mechanic found that one of the "lugs" on the end of the Cam has broken off and jammed into the distributor... ...Lucky for me it means that my car still runs because of the way the distributor locks into the cam... ...however under heavy load I get a little bit of a "chug chug"...

Last time I put my car on a dyno I got close to 150kws at the wheels... ...Which I'm told is quite good for a stock GTS25t...

So not knowing much about Cams... ...If I was to go for some upgraded Cams... ...What should I look for and what kind of power increase could I expect???...

It's also my daily driver so I don't want anything over crazy...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241912-so-ive-got-a-broken-cam/
Share on other sites

its not a distributor, its a CRANK ANGLE SENSOR.

and its the HALF CIRCLE which locates the CAS has broken off??

it wouldnt be that hard to line up the the CAS, just match the area thats broken off to the recess in the CAS shaft and put it in. When it starts you know its in right. Theres 7 or so other teeth that locate it also, so itll still work, and its not like u have to take it out regularly.

ps: still unclear where the piece of cam ended up :)

The bit that broke off is jammed in the Cam Angle Sensor (what I've always known as the distributor) shaft... ...if you pull it off and look into the shaft you can see some locator groves... ...and it's jammed in there...

The up side is that it is jammed in hard and won't come out... ...The down side is that I've been told it could last 10,000Km or 300,000Km before it fails totally...

Either way... ...it's better to learn now what I could do with it and what my options are before it fails...

I don't think I get it either. Unless you strip the spline off the cam it will never fail totally. If you take it off and you lose the alignment key then it may be difficult to get back into the correct phase but otherwise I don't think it will ever fail.

I don't think I get it either. Unless you strip the spline off the cam it will never fail totally. If you take it off and you lose the alignment key then it may be difficult to get back into the correct phase but otherwise I don't think it will ever fail.

I guess it's the "Alignment Key" that's broken off... ...It's at the very tip of the cam... ...The part that passes through the cog that the timing belt goes around...

I could go out and pull it off and take some photos... ...but I'm afraid I don't think I'd be able to put it back on right... :)

well what can you budget for? personally ill never bother upgrading my cams as the stock gtr 1s are good. but thats rb26 cams. i dunno much about rb25 cams. Trent is a mechanic/tuner and he suggested stage 1's. maybe talk with other mechanic/tuners. talk to your mechanic if you have 1.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
×
×
  • Create New...