hks 2530 turbos for r34 gtr??

[EVL R33]

Correct Roy, I have the dumps but not the manifolds yet. Still with Stock dumps and manifolds the difference to stock turbos would be amazing...

Anyone know how much the HKS manifold would sell for??

I'd say with 406 4wkw the engine would be fully rebuilt, cams, etc and about 1.7 bar????

Brett

[markr34gtr]

yes i agree its not good being beaten by a little gtir pulsar that ran 12.4 secs. need to improve my act some....

[ylwgtr2]

Hi mark...i just bought some of these turbos.......definatly go for them......if your in need of a clutch i have a Nismo GmaxII flywheel and clutch if your interested...i changed to an OS 4 plate unit due to my set up which as follows.... HKS dumps and manifolds,HKS pistons and rods,HKS 264 cams,GREDDY Plenum and various other odds and ends....The nismo clutch is a balltearer but i had to change it....but in regards to the turbos...GT2530!

[vspecv]

another option trust t517z,similar feel to 2530s,older design but cheap to rebuild with similar results.

im going gt-rs on a 2.7 very soon,looking for 400kw,so though may be a stretch for 2530s,wouldnt touch 2540s.

dont think theres too many options if someone is looking for 400+with low mounts.

[Mick Trainer]

Dean,

How is the car going? Getting close? I saw it about 2-3 weeks ago looks fantastically tough. Serious rubber can fit under those guards.

Mick.

[vspecv]

hi mick,

its finished.

[amosite]

My Bro is using N1 turbo's which I hear are similar to what you are after. I do believe that the 2530's are larger in compressor size and are suited for higher RPM, bigger cams and more boost.

We did not consider these due to this nature...hence the choice for N1's

Running motec engine management and 13 psi we ran out of IDC which was expected. The car is smoother then the factory computer and of course it is tunned correctly and results in more power but the injectors, pump and rails are on their way.

If you belive that a Power FC will result in better drivability you have been gravely misinformed!

Ask any tunning guru,

GTR's run 6 throttle bodies

You need to run TPS based maps up until boost where the secondary map comes into play.

If this is not done, you get a 3,000 gold box that is a waste of $$

Tuned correctly a power FC is nothing compared to motec!

I must admit that was a pretty bold statement!

[Mick Trainer]

Dean,

You are a lucky man. It is one nice car. One of many that you have owned and had pass through your group. Well if I am at Ben's one day when it is going maybe I could get a ride. 400rwkw in that format with twins etc will be very impressive. Will have to put it on a track beside a certain white 33. If u need a steerer I will offer my services. Generous I know.

Amosite,

I agree u cannot compare Power FC to a Motec. The drivability of motec cannot be beat.

Mick.

[vspecv]

mick,

its surpassed 400rwkw,its already at 459kw at only 22psi,waiting on a hks twin power ignition from japan,so we can turn up the wick.ignition wasnt happy beyond 459 and 22psi.

[Mick Trainer]

WoooHooo, That is tons. 500 may not be out of reach. If you dont mind me asking where is it starting to spool up? In that body that is going to be hard to beat. I will keep in touch with Ben would like to see it run sometime. That should be incredible both down the 1/4 mile and around the island.

Mick.

[vspecv]

its a lag monster,about 6000rpm,rev limiter is set at 9500rpm,we could go 10500rpm,but longevity is something i want also.

think 500 is a gunna come once the ignition is sorted and 30psi.

dunno if i will run with current turbos yet,a bit of an animal to drive.the r32 i got these turbos off ran a 9.6 in japan,but im assuming probably with a 10500 rev limit and a holinger and probably driven by someone who didnt own it

[Mick Trainer]

Thats a heap of lag. Will be interesting to see what you end up with.

Will keep in touch,

Mick

[Sydneykid]

Hi amosite, I have a few questions about the Motec installation....

How do you find the Motec for cold start?

What's it like with the air con on in traffic on 40 degree day?

How's the low speed idle stability with parking angle on the power steering?

Tried it at -15 degrees celsius?

How about at 2,000 metres?

Does it handle the electrical load OK with a big sub?

What's the fuel economy like in closed loop?

Does the dash warning lamp for knock still work?

Does it work OK in limp home mode?

Is it handling the interference from the CD player OK?

Who did the tuning?

How long did it take for them to tune it for cold start and cold run?

How much did the tuning cost?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but any valid comparison between a Motec and a PFC needs to cover all the driving conditions I face.

[amosite]

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Hi amosite, I have a few questions about the Motec installation....

How do you find the Motec for cold start?

What's it like with the air con on in traffic on 40 degree day?

How's the low speed idle stability with parking angle on the power steering?

Tried it at -15 degrees celsius?

How about at 2,000 metres?

Does it handle the electrical load OK with a big sub?

What's the fuel economy like in closed loop?

Does the dash warning lamp for knock still work?

Does it work OK in limp home mode?

Is it handling the interference from the CD player OK?

Who did the tuning?

How long did it take for them to tune it for cold start and cold run?

How much did the tuning cost?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but any valid comparison between a Motec and a PFC needs to cover all the driving conditions I face.

The Factory ECU does all these simple functions.

I.e Factory ECU still connected. It does the basic functions that the factroy ECU do fine, idle speed, power steering comp, cold start, air conditioning switch etc. You take what you need and make it user defineable with the ECU. Why spend time tuning something to do what the factory ECU does fine! It would be a waste of time to tune something like this as there will be neglidgeable results.

When the air con is on, I would assume that it would work? :-)

There is no sub fitted to the car, but running 2 fuel pumps, plus the original that seems to be fine along with all the other electrical crap that is installed into the car.

In sydney, were do we get -15 deg??? The tempreture compensation has not been set up THAT low. Frankly, there is no need to.

The tempreture compensation has only been configured for hot intake temps. With somer coming on and with the differing quality of fuels we have these days, it is better to be safe then down and out with an engine out at the machine shop. They way it has been configured is so that on hotter days (or intake temps) it will drop the configured amount (what ever you program into it) of timming to reduce detonation. This works well on track days where IAT are excessive. This can also be done for boost. I generally drop 1 lbs at 38 Deg 2 lbs at 40 deg. This also means that I do not have to drop as much ign timming. As I said, it is better to drive the car home then to trailer it. Especially from Wakefield!

Barometric compensation is available, but since the car is not driven to the snow fields, there is little reason to set this up.

However if needed, it is a matter of getting the log from the ecu and detirmining how rich it is to when it was initially setup. A trim can then be entered into the compensation MAP which will aliviate the slight rich running of the car.

Regarding the closed loop? There is no reason to run close loop if the car is mapped properly. Closed loop is mearly an aid for people who done have base maps, cant tune, lazy or all of the above. FYI the car uses about the same amount of fuel as it did before with normal every day to day driving.

The CEL light has been disconected. Once again, the car is mapped propery and unless the car is filled up with desiel, it wont knock. There is a knock link fitted just in case which is a much better visual display. I will find the time soon enough to configure a pizo sensor to one of the inputs ao that the ecu can use it to drop timming in the case of a high "knock" frequency.

Limp mode is not needed since the car is Mapped. in the event of an engine faliure, I trust that my brother will tow the car and not try and drive it. That is just common sence.

However since we are not running air flow meters worse case is if an intercooler hose pops off it can be driven on its primary map (it will do so as there is no boost to switch it to secondary map function) This happend to me not long ago when I was cheking things over. The car is NA, but with a much louder turbo sound. Simply awsom! I dont suggest you try this at home as it is easy to overspeed the turbo doing this.

CD player works fine.

I did the tunning

It took me 1 weekend and 3 tanks of fuel

During the week I ran it up on the dyno for full power sorting, did a quick road tune on the way home and handed the keys over.

The ECU has duel lambda, logging, advanced features.

It took another weekend to install the bungs for duel lambda, install the ECU, water temp, 3 BAR MAP sensor and IAT sensor, EGT Sensor, shift lights, remove the AFM,s with custom Trumpets and beacon for the track.

Cold start idle was not tunned...its factory.

Cold Start enrichment was done on the way to work the following day.

Tunning cost? Brotherly love?

I would say if you were to get a shop to install it you would be lookning in the vicinity of $2,000 to $3000 for an installation like this. This was not really a base installatioon, more like an intermediate installation. Base costs would be less.

For the $$ you have in mind, I would not even consider the Power FC. I would be using the LINK plug in. Lap top tuneable, no AFM's, semi closed knock control, fuel, ignition and boost control. Basically all the shit that the factory ECU does. This would be better value for $$

[markr34gtr]

how much would i get for my r34 gtr intercooler.$$$

it as as new no marks or bent fins......

so i can get a hks type r cooler.

how much power increase with hks type r do you guys think.???

it will have hks 2530s on also.....

thanks...