Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok just gotta 33 and there are a few things i need to get rid of

wing with brand new brake like ($300 was paid for the tail light genuine nissan) $200

Power FC for RB25 $700ono

GT42R turbo (its a f**king monster) rated at 1200hp $1000 ono

Drift D1 seat for drivers side on R33 rail as new condition $300

i dont get on the net much these days so sms or phone me on 0413595838 for anything urgent

can send pics of anything to you via sms as i can only use the internet at work and cant upload pics

cheers

Edited by SLY-L20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242274-r33-stuff/
Share on other sites

sorry no hand controler hence why i bit cheaper

it was tuned on stock 33 with zorst filter and front mount and made 202rwkw on 12psi

will call you shortly i was on the work phone when you called and tried calling the number that called me but wouldnt work....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242274-r33-stuff/#findComment-4225569
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...