Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm thinking of putting an RB25DET into my 180sx. I found one through my work, it's a series 2 engine with 65,00kms. Now to cut straight to the question. My power goal will be 280rwkw basically just want to know what parts would be neeed. Im aware i'll need certain parts, but what i mean is what size injectors, to work with what turbo, cams, ecu ect. Basically a dream list of parts that i can lash out and buy. Now i dont think i'll want to push beyond 280rwkw, so id want the most responsive turbo that can hit that goal, with aid of cams+gears. I have read the RB25 upgrade thread but its hard to get a good idea cause most people buy parts that are cheap and whatever is for sale at the time. if that makes sence, smart tech guru's need only reply please! thankyou for your help.

Tara-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242499-aiming-for-280-rwkw/
Share on other sites

fuel pump haha

are you planning on dropping in the RB ecu with it?

also... is there any special reason for the RB25? wouldnt SR20 swap be easier to undertake and engineer?

im assuming that if you can find an RB through work, you can find a good SR...

if you read my post you would see that i already read the RB25 turbo upgrade thread, how do i know what the person is aiming for even if there dyno graph is 280kw? i asked a simple question. I dont want another SR20. I was asking about the RB25DET. And i work at a mechanical workshop so getting blue plates and what not will not be an issue. Should have just asked on ns.com, just thought the crew here may know a little more about RB25's.. Obviously not.

Also, why would i (drop) the std ecu in with the RB25 if im asking about aftermarket parts? So no, i will not be using the std ecu, most likely get a powerFC.

Edited by MissTara
if you read my post you would see that i already read the RB25 turbo upgrade thread, how do i know what the person is aiming for even if there dyno graph is 280kw? i asked a simple question. I dont want another SR20. I was asking about the RB25DET. And i work at a mechanical workshop so getting blue plates and what not will not be an issue. Should have just asked on ns.com, just thought the crew here may know a little more about RB25's.. Obviously not.

Also, why would i (drop) the std ecu in with the RB25 if im asking about aftermarket parts? So no, i will not be using the std ecu, most likely get a powerFC.

ok byebye then.

OBVIOUSLY its too hard to read up on what other people have done or reccomend

i don't know how you managed to give such a strait out answer, must have been hard! ha! anyway, thanks.

Im going for similar power except im going for 300-350rwkw, only real difference for you is smaller turbo and injectors.

You could also go a walbro 255 fuel pump, its cheaper but i have heard mixed stories about them so im sticking with the ol faithfull 040.

280 rwkw is a tricky figure. Is there a reason why you have selected 280 rwkw as opposed to 250rwkw or 300 rwkw?

The reason I ask is while it is definitely possible to make more than 250 rwkw on a stock motor (I've done it as have numerous other forum members), I would not want to do it for an extended period of time on a stock motor for reliability purposes.

280rwkw is tricky because it is more than I'd be comfortable running on the stock motor and probably not quite enough to justify building a motor. E.g. if I was going to build a motor, I'd whack a slightly bigger turbo on and aim for 300+.

If you tune the car to run on E85 (high octane), you should be able to get 280 rwkw using a highflow rb25 turbo with the larger OP6 rear housing from the VG30 turbo.

A car that I helped build managed more than 280 rwkw with the highflow I mentioned using tolulene added to standard 98 BP ultimate. E85 should be able to produce even more power.

Edited by MANWHORE

cams for 280? there are many people getting 300 with stock cams, maybe add adjustable cam gears though.

Clutch will be needed, tyres are optional after all she did say she was going to drift it :P and of course suspension will be part of the drift set up, not a part required to get 280rwkw which is purely the question i answered thats why i left out clutch (and i didnt think of it at the time).

hks gtr-s

3 1/2 zaust high flow cats

550cc injectors

044 fuel pump

exedy brass/cusion button clutch

front mount (with nice silicon joins and heavy duty clamps)

ebc (greddy profec b spec II)

microtech ECU :) (people will dispute this, but no BOV and your dosing)

maybe chuck an oil coiler around there some where

suspension (tein or HSD coilovers)

diff

and that 180sx will skate like its on ice :) :)

280rwkw is easily achievable on an SR20, why on earth would you want to put an RB25 in there other than to make your car nose heavy and for bragging rights? Retaining an alloy SR20 block as opposed to a cast iron RB25 block is worth the extra power you'll have to make to compensate for the added weight.

Seriously, save the time and money you'd waste on shoehorning an RB25DET in and make a bulletproof SR20DET.

im no race car expert but im guessing with the extra weight over the nose it would also make it understeer which is definitely not some thing you want in a drift car.

Edited by W0rp3D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...